Masked Marauder

The manual covers everywhere in the world and 2 years is a worst case scenario. But as the fluid is not expensive and it is a straight forward job, why not?

If the manifold pressure sensor detects the boost pressure to be outside the expect values the ECU cuts the turbo. As yours goes whoosh and stops working you probably have a large post-turbo induction pipe off or split. Check them out, they go from the turbo to the intercooler and then from the intercooler up the right hand side of the engine to the intake manifold.

I would go for an I-Trip or similar. Hard-wire it into the power supply with a in-car lead and keep it in the glovebox.

The technique of engine braking is no longer taught to learner drivers, the way it is taught now is you brake until the engine is about to stall, then you put the clutch in and stop or select a gear to proceed. Apparently it is more fuel efficient, but as the fuel is cut on the over run I can not see how. And I have never heard of an adhesive backing on a brake pad, anti-squeal yes, adhesive, no. In any case there is no return spring on the calipers to draw the calipers away from the disks anyway, so why would you have adhesive backs?

I spent half an hour looking for the Teddy wheels! same car as well as the one I member seeing!

The pads are a friction material bonded to a metal plate. Where the plate touches the metal calipers then it can cause squealing. You put copper grease on the backs of the pads where they sit in the caliper to stop it happening. You don't grease where they run on the disks. That would just be silly*. * And in the unlikely event that Cammy is reading this, I know it was 14 years ago you did it on your MK2 Escort, but your still a prat.

No. Your car is haunted. Well, yes mine do a little, not far, but enough to increase the noise in the car to an irritating level.

Clearly if the disks were changed then there should be minimal wear on them if the pads have only lasted 10K ish. The pads are clearly made of too soft a material for a Galaxy. If they do need changed then go for a Pagid or Mintex from GSF etc. But in my opinion I think they may have glazed and that is why you are getting poor braking and squeal and judder. I have never known a garage pass on the opportunity of an easy buck for doing a set of pads, they normally tell you they won't last until the next service and change them.

Not really, but if you want to stay safe then you have to take the correct precautions. Axle stands are a must, you should never work on a car that is only on a jack.

You can get a good look by stripping off the wheels and looking at the pads in the calipers. You will clearly see if they need changing.

You can not judge brake pads in miles.

A good 2 tonne trolly jack, wheel brace, brake pipe clamp and axle stands. New pads, disks if required, and some new brake fluid. I could do both sides in under an hour. Half an hour if I was using my air tools.

No the front and back can be done separately, the front is easier. When you say how long should it take, are we talking Masked Marauder minutes or Mum of 4 minutes?

Brake pads can be hard to see because of backing plates and wheel rims etc. What you need a little mirror with a light on a pole http://www.bigtrucker.co.uk/images/mirror.png and have a look at your parts and see what is making your squeeling noise. If it is the breaks going metal on metal then you need to get things sorted asap.

If I won a few million on the lottery you would not see me for dust. I would just grab anything and anybody precious to me and get the cluck out of the country to somewhere Mediterranean....

Damn, and there was me hoping it was either an "Eject" button or a "Mute" control...

was that 'Ride of the Valkyries' or 'Flight of the Bumble bee' ?? :) :) :) :) LOL! I was genuinely thinking of holidays when I wrote that! You right of course, Ride of the Valkyries!

It is a big car and has quite high wheel-arches too. If you want the arches to look fuller then you have to lower the car using lowering springs and dampers. Trouble then is the change in geometry can destroy tyres on a car that already eats them for breakfast lunch and dinner... 17s are very expensive and you would need new wheels too.

I can't hear anything from my tweeters so I guess whoever butchered the wires never wired them up! I keep meaning to check the wires out, but don't know if it is worth it!

Mine are 15" wheels M, yours are 16" I think, they are wider too, so your tyres will cost more.

Well I don't pay my line rental to anyone else.....

I have heard more bad than good about factor lamba sensors so I would try to source a genuine one if that is what you feel is causing the problems. Check it is not a dirty connector to the sensor first though.

Firestones, 12000 miles in 12 months, not even half worn,

The glow plug light will only light for a short time when the engine is warm. Does the engine crank over, start and then stop the minute the key is released?

Temperature sensor or lamba sensor, but a diagnostic may not show either....