chicosi

This guy's got a few, but a bit expensive for a second hand radio............... here

This may be of interest Galaxy lock repair

Had the same problem with mine. I removed all the trim from around the windscreen and the bond had gone between the adhesive and the metal at the top corner. Cleaned everything up and put some sealer all around the edge where the windsreen adhesive meets the metal. Fingers crossed it's been ok since. Finding it almost drove me mad - I was looking for the more common problems of the pollen filter and/or scuttle trim clips I've just re-read Steve.S's post and it sounds like he didn't remove the rubber trim along the top of the screen. It just pulls out exposing the the edge of the windscreen (well it does on my mk1) The rubber doesn't do any sealing, the glass is bonded straight to the metal.

Turk90210 I know discs aren't supposed to look like that, but what are we actually looking at and how did it happen?

Whilst there's no doubt he deserved the win, according to the papers he's been on TV before and won

My wife's just phoned me at work to say the speedo's stopped working on her 2.3 Si I take it it's electronic and not cable driven? Anyone got any initial thoughts?

Shouldn't see why not, but I'm not certain. The listing also says it's suitable for Sharan 95 on. Unless somebody else replies with a definitive answer, maybe the best thing to do is ask the seller a question

I'm having similar problems. I too had a small lake in the footwell, scuttle drains were clear, so I removed the scuttle trim at the base of the windscreen. The sealant had gone at the base of the clips. Thinking that was it, I replaced the clips with plenty of sealant. Next downpour - soaking footwell again! ;) Spent most of Sunday removing various bits of interior trim, getting my wife to spray the windscreen with a hose and me performing contortions to see where it was coming from to no avail. I was getting to the stage of removing the dash, however after tea it started to rain quite heavily, so I had one last go. Removed all the trim from around the passenger quarterlight and there it was! A steady drip from the windscreen bonding right in the bottom corner. I've still to get a chance to go round to Autoglass to see what my options are. My central locking and electric windows are both playing up. I have the later model where the module is at the driver's side so it's not water ingress.C/L activates with the remote but the driver's door sometimes doesn't lock/unlock. Individual doors lock/unlock manually but don't activate the C/L. Both front windows aren't working. Been too busy trying to fix the leak to investigate much but I had a quick look at the loom where it goes through the doors and it seems ok

Where do the other 5 seats go?? :lol:

This is what you're looking for If I recall correctly it should be in the blade portion of the key

Well done - good to hear it went ok :)

I just removed some of the insulation on the existing wires, spliced on the new ones and put on a drop of solder to secure them (though I guess that isn't strictly necessary) and wrapped them in insulation tape. There's always scotchlocks, of course, if you have some

I can't remember how I did mine, but I don't think you need to remove the fusebox. Black goes to earth Red, yellow, and yellow/black all go to live (I linked all three into one wire and tapped that into the main live as shown in Mussey1's picture) White goes to close trigger (grey wire on the connector circled in red in Mussey1's picture) White/black goes to open trigger (green/red wire on the connector circled in red in Mussey1's picture) I didn't connect the indicator wires and my indicators still flash on locking and unlocking You're right to be cautious but it's easy enough when you get going :lol:

I'll swap you bills! My wife's Galaxy just went through the MOT. 4 new tyres, front discs and pads, 1 brake pipe and a wiper, add to that the MOT fee and the garage labour and that's nearly

7up If you've nothing under the passenger seat it would appear that the connections you need are at the driver's side fuse box - connection details are here

I bought a pair of flip key remotes from the same guy - see here for details

Try looking inside the fuel filler flap - the correct spec for my tyres is on a label in there. Failing that have a look on the door pillars

Could also be the first sign of sticky valves - I've had that problem with my 2.3. Is it due an oil change by any chance? If it is it would be worth using some flushing oil and petrol/oil treatment to clean things out. I've also been advised to run at over 4,000 rpm from time to time. Running at that speed the valves start to rotate and this helps to clean them.

Did that ages ago if you read my post :( I undid the battery cover, removed the circuit board and there's a little pocket at the front of the key. Popped the chip in there and stuck a blob of bluetack in to hold it in place. All I need now is a little Ford logo to replace the BMW one If you're anything like me, how long did you spend looking out the living room window locking and unlocking and watching the indicators flash? :(

Keith, Here's the link to Mussey1's post regarding the fusebox and wiring codes Mussey1's post And attached is the wiring diagram supplied with the kit I ignored the unlock/lock wire colour codes supplied with the kit and went with Mussey1's colours Everything can be hooked up at the fuse box Any more info just shout!

Ok, feel free to PM me if you need any info

Well done that man!! :wub: My local Timpson cut both keys today for

bigdaddy Yes, this was wired to my existing locking which was working fine with the key, it just wouldn't work with the original remote. New batteries and recoding wouldn't fix it so I assume the remote was knackered. All you need to connect are 3 supply wires, one earth wire and a wire each to the central locking unlock/lock trigger wires, all can be found at the fusebox. The fact that you can lock with the remote would suggest to me that your unlock trigger wire is broken between the fusebox and door lock probably in the flexible boot between the door and pillar. If the trigger wire is broken then you'll be in the same situation with a replacement remote. Keith9534 If you already have central locking that works with the key then I see no reason why it shouldn't work with your car I've run into a bit of hassle getting the key cut. Even the local VW dealer in Aberdeen can't cut them and have to send them away and wanted

Having looked at VW flip key remotes I had thought that a folding key for the older Galaxys wasn't possible - however I've just bought and fitted these to my 99 2.3 Si. Although the wiring diagram supplied gave the wrong wiring colours, installation was straightforward thanks to Mussey1's excellent picture and wiring colour codes. Only 6 wires to connect and everything tucked in nicely beside the fusebox. The global closing doesn't work and although it may be possible, I don't think I'd use it anyway - the rear windows are manual and there's more chance of the kids leaving one of them open. Also I haven't wired up the boot release - can anybody tell me if it would work if I did? The indicators do flash on lock/unlock. The remotes are a bit plasticky but ok for the money and look like they should last a while. Transmitter range is excellent. I've still to get the keys cut and I'll have to find somewhere in the remote to take the PATs chip but I'm hoping there'll be no problems there. All in all 2 flip key RCL remotes for under

Got the car running enough to go for a drive in low gear at high revs (apparently the valves start to spin above 4000 rpm and speed up the cleaning process) When I got back it was better but still misfiring, removed the plugs and the gap in no.4 had closed right up! Adjusted gap, started her up and she was revving and idling fine. Didn't go for a drive as the wife was working and didn't fancy being stranded with three kids if it cut out again. It's perfectly possible that I'd put the original no.3 plug back in no.4 so I'm hoping that it's a duff plug. Although the gap closing by itself seems strange, the only other reason, of course, is that something's contacting the plugs in the cylinder and I don't want to even contemplate that! I'll try a new set of plugs tonight and take it from there Fingers crossed!