f0ster

when anything gets wet it is vital to remove any power source at once, the circuit board can be washed with some cleaner, try maplins, I am sure they will have something,

Simple.....give her yours. Surely you love your wife more than your car? :wacko: I have worked at a kia /mazda dealership for many years, (but not now)the kia sedona is an excellent product, lots people would not entertain a kia on their drive but they are excellent value for money, and they have a whopping 2.9 turbo diesel, and you can usually get the best part of 40mpg,

hello on the galaxy tdi the glow plugs are not required,mine has not had any for the last three years and it starts first turn in any weather,cold starting on a diesel is quite often fuel leaking back, to cure the cold starting replace all of the leak off pipes on the injectors,(the rubber ones) also replace the small blanking rubber on the last one, also replace the filter and any orings on the filter head, (if air can get in to the fuel rail then the fuel will drain down) it is far better to replace the cheap stuff and then test it than to jump in at the deep end with expensive stuff, a good test is to clamp off the feed and return pipes back to the tank with two pairs of vice grips after you have had it running, then leave it over night, before starting in the morning remove the clamps and see how it starts, if it starts ok then you have fuel leaking back, if you have a persistant fuel leaking back problem that you cannot fix by replacing stuff, (but clamping the pipes cures it) you can get a pair of non return valves from your lucas dealer, these valves go in to the feed and return pipes

the fault might be fuel running back, quite common on diesels, when I get anything like this I always start with the cheap stuff like leak off pipes, fuel filter, check hoses carefully for cracking both feed and return, the starter fault is strange because there is alot more load on a starter on a cold engine when compared to a hot engine, one would have thought the fault would be there when cold, if an engine is cranking slowly you usually can tell by the way it cranks over, if the fuel is running back a quick way to tell is to clamp off both the feed and return fuel hoses with two pairs of vice grips an soon as you stop, leave it a while, go back, remove the grips and crank it over, also when you go back to start the car crack open an injector pipe and turn the starter, there should be fuel squirting out stright away, if not fuel is running back,

to get the caliper levers off you have to unscrew the piston untill it comes out, once it is out you will see a snap ring in the bottom of the caliper body holding the screw thread in place, once this is out and the screw thread is out the lever should then come out, it is a bit of a fiddle getting the piston back in because the gaiter shrinks down when the piston is out, the best way I found is to put the gaiter on to the piston and push it down to the bottom of the piston, then carefully insert the lip of the gaiter in to its slot in the caliper, then screw the piston in to place, (make sure you clean out any rust from just below where the piston seal fits, it is not necessary to replace the piston oring, if it has not been leaking it will not leak when it is put back, be very carefull not to tear the piston gaiter, (there will be some colourfull language when you put it back together) it can be fiddley,

the reason that the fault is worse in cold weather is probably due to the fact that oil has got in to the vac pipes and cannot be easily bypassed by the air, my car does it a lot in winter, in summer on a hot day there is no fault,

at present one would have to assume it was an electrical fault,

I would replace all of the vac pipes that are connected with the boost control, they gey oil in them and prevent smooth operation of the boost control via the n75 valve,

I have 03 galaxy 115bhp also same power loss but i noticed if power trips and you turn the engine off and back on the power resumes so is that mechanical or computer resetting? also i notice trips power on incline uphills. what turbo cleaner do you rewcommend ? theres no white smoke so don't think turbo broken but the sticking theory seems possible. it looses power because the pcm detects too much boost, it then puts the fuel delivery in to failsafe mode, you reset it by switching off the ignition,

hello you "must" eliminate the wheels and tyres from the list of possible faults that could be causing it, especially the rear tyres, if rear tyres are badly out of balance or shape, the vibration comes through the body, it can also shake the steering wheel even tho it comes from the body, but instead of the steering wheel wobbling side to side the column bounces up and down, where as if it is the front tyres the steering wheel usually wobbles side to side, this might not be the cause but I know from experience that it is best to start with the least expensive and also the items that are subject to the most wear,

hello I had the same problem towing a caravan, the car got stuck in third with the gear lever slopping about, the ball joint on the box was worn and so the socket on the end of the cable would not stay in place, I did a temp repair on site from below the car by tying the cable across too one side which stopped it from popping off, when I got back I gained access to the end of the cable, I then drilled a small hole in each side of the metal cup that the cable ball joint sets in to, I then put a long piece of piano wire through the two holes and above the cable socket end, thus holding it in place,

remove the inlet pipe to the turbo, get hold of the turbo spindle with a pair of pointed pliers, see how much lift in the spindle there is, also check the end float of the spindle, a turbo spindle will have slight lift, there is not usually any end float, also if the turbo had worn spindle bearings it would very quickly stop giving power completely, you would not get it comming and going, also once the spindle bearings go the turbo usually pours oil down the exhaust, if your has a diesel type cat fitted it might have blocked up,

the problem with changing autobox oil is that about two thirds of the fluid is stuck in side the torque converter and cannot be accessed easily, there is also quite a lot in the clutch packs and pipes, in austrailia where they have lots of autos they use a charging station, this machine has its own pump and a supply of new fluid, it does it via the oil cooler pipes, this way all of the fluid gets changed, we have arranged a simalar way of doing this, remove the oil cooler feed to the radiator (if it has one) and leave the engine ticking with the pipe in to a container, this will pump out the old fluid, while this is happening keep topping up the box via the dip stick tube, it will take a lot of fluid to do a complete change but this will ensure a complete change, auto boxes that do not have their fluid changed will fail sooner than they should, the best guide the colour of the fluid, when it starts to gain a slightly brown tint it is time to change it, I have found that this starts to happen at about 60-70k with normal use,

http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_make.html, this site has a wealth of info about bio diesel,

do you mean stutter or is it just loss of power, if it is loosing power there are a few things you need to check,

The question may well come across as seeming simple. But there is nothing simple about trying to give a definative answer. You are asking people who may like to help you out,a rather advanced question on biodiesel and any adverse effects it could have on your injector system, long term. If you are simply just adding a 50/50 mix to your tank already,are you sure that no adversity is happening to the injector system or any seals already? There are indeed alot of biodiesel type forums that surely could aid you better on such a technical question. I for one, could not say its ok to even run a 50/50 mix safely.because its your cars reliabilty which is in question.would hate to be a part of its failure,because i gave a ill advised response..... So nothing simple about that question afterall..... regards Gio there is lots of info on google, there are lots of reports that the injection pump seals get knackered using bio fuel, there are even photos showing you how to replace your own pump seals,

there is a post about this already, I have just posted it today 06/06/08

hello I can shed some light on this problem, the loss of power is caused by the boost pressure going over 2.2kpa, as soon as the pcm sees this over pressure situation it shuts down the power by reducing the fuel being delivered by the pump, so that no damage is done, on the early galaxy you can do a reset simply by shutting off the throttle and back on again, on the later model the ignition has to be switched off, it is caused by oil getting in to the pipes that control the boost via the n75 valve, the pipes are far too long and oil gets stuck in them which causes a resonance to build up, the boost pressure has to go from the turbo to the pcm , by the time it gets there and the pcm then respondes by activating the n75 valve the situation has gone critical and so you get a reduction in power, there are other factors that can cause this but this is the most common, the waste gate on the turbo has to be checked for sticking also.