f0ster

hello there are aftermarket suppliers who can supply c/v joint gaiters for under a tenner, also these gaiters are made of silicone rubber which is very stretchy, the gaiter can be stretched over the joint and it will shrink back to the original size, you then put grease in to the gaiter and slide it down the shaft to the joint, one word of caution! you must not get grease under the surface where the gaiter clamps to the joint, other wise it can pop off on the first bend, by the way these type of gaitetrs do not perish because they are made of silicone rubber

hello if you have a wheel bearing on the way out they vibrate as well, long before you hear a wheel bearing noise you get vibrations, the way to detect these vibrations is to spin each wheel while holding on to the coil spring of said wheel, if the bearing is starting to go you will feel vibrations, do the same with the inner support bearing on the shaft, I suppose the diff support bearings could also cause this but I do not think that this will be the cause.

you will not see any leaks because the injection pump draws up the fuel, the pump is in the front of the injection pump, sounds like drawing air

I assume the oil level is ok, get some one to turn the steering while you look around to trace the noise, as long as the level is ok it would have to be from the pump, power steering works on the principle that oil is going around the system continually, when you turn the steering some of the pressure is diverted to assist the rack movement, make sure all steering pipes are secure and cannot vibrate,

most likely the oxy sensor has failed, does it usually run ok on gas as opposed to petrol, I find lots of cars engine managment systems do not like running on gas and put the engine check light on,

hello when you say that the electrics to the compressor seem fine, have you tested the supply to the compressor mag clutch, when the air con is selected, the mag clutch on the front of the compressor requires 12v to activate, most manufacturers I have dealt with can supply the mag clutch seperatly, if the clutch has failed you need to see if it is caused by bearing failure or possibly the compressor siezing up,

hello I recently had a merc diesel with 250k on the clock with original clutch, it is entirely dependant on the driver, lots of people sit at traffic lights on a slight gradient holding the car in situ by slipping the clutch in stead on using the park brake, this puts massive wear on the linings, under normal use a clutch only slips for a fraction of a second when setting off, also when a clutch does start to slip due to wear it goes very quickly due to the pressure plate reaching its end stops so as to prevent damage to the flywheel,

hello don`t know about this model but on other vehicles that use the vw engine, you can get a fixed flywheel replacement for the dual mass one that is on, I have carried out this operation on a bora diesel, dual mass flywheel was knackered, got a complete normal flywheel/clutch replacement for a fraction of the cost, there was no noticeable difference in the way the vehicle drove either, the dual mass flywheel is there mostly to get rid of transmission chatter that is caused by the firing pulses of the diesel engine, the kit was LUK

hello there is a very small difference between overheating and then blowing out the water, as opposed to blowing out the water then overheating, they can be very difficult to tell apart, the first one could be a slightly blocked radiator, hence it working ok during winter, because of the temperature differential between coolant and outside air, the second could be head gasket or cracked head, pressurising the system, blowing out the water which then causes overheating,

hello try a search on google uk, you will get lots of hits for turbos, no they are not difficult to fit, you will also have to replace the oil and filter and the air filter to comply with the suppliers warranty terms, (keep your receipts for the parts)

HELLO this model has a waste gate to control the boost, they are very prone to sticking especially if they have been driven around slowly, this type of driving will not allow the waste gate to keep moving, the cheapest option is to try swapping the air flow sensor with a known good one, (if you can get hold of one) if that is not an option the next cheapest option is to check the waste gate for operation up the back of the engine, you will have to remove a small circlip from the end of the pushrod, (make sure it does not go in to orbit as you pull it off)

hello I have an n reg model that has had the same problem, with mine the power will drop off due to the turbo over boosting, when the ecu senses boost over 2.2kpa it shuts down and goes in to limp home mode to protect the engine, on the early models you can reset the ecu by backing off the accelerator and then on again, on the later ones you have to switch off the ignition to carry out a reset, the cause is a bit more complex, first it would be an idea to check the operation of the waste gate, I checked mine with the car on a lift and disconnecting the actuator from the waste gate arm up the back of the engine, if it is sticking even slightly it needs to be freed off, you then need to replace all of the vacume pipes on the boost control circuit and also the n75 valve (that`s if the fault is still there when you sort the turbo)

hello I have had one of these faults, first of all on the one I was working on the waste gate on the turbo was sticking, the customer elected to replace the turbo, second, this did not completely rectify the fault, I had to replace the n75 valve along with all of the pipes that control the waste gate position, the fault is that the boost pressure goes over 2.2kpa which causes the ecu to reduce the power so as to prevent damage, oil gets in to the pipes feeding the control pressure to the ecu preventing the control pressure getting to the ecu in time to reduce power, and so overboost occours, then ecu limp home, the n75 valve was also replaced, this appears to be a common fault on the early ones,

hello this could be a difficult one, if the garage concerned did the diag work and then did the work on the box, then they have not fulfilled their contract, give it back to the garage to repair correctly, if you get no joy get yourself an independant engineer to liase with the garage, they do not cost a lot but it is money well spent,

hello recomend you put it up on a wheel free hoist if possible and run it in gear while you listen in from below to see if you can spot where the noise is comming from, a stethoscope for motor vehicles is handy in these situations,

I must say that my galaxy recently had a noisy engine, especially when cold for a while, I found the big end shells were down to the copper, most of the white metal was gone, replacing then sorted it, the mains were ok, examined pump found within spec, (example) the mazda 626 is noted for noisy hydraulic tappets, they get noisy when the car has done a lot of miles, slight wear on the journals, but mostly wear in the oil pump, you get a reduced pressure to the top end, the valve spring pressure is able to overcome the oil pressure to the top end causing excess tappet clearence and rattle, new pump cures problem, the reduced pressure is within spec but when engine is hot the pressure is at the lower end of its operating range,

Is this valve in the oil filter not the called the bypass valve, that is there to allow oil to bypass the filter in case of a blockage in the filter, this rattle might be the big end shells getting worn a bit which causes a delay in oil pressure build up,

with brake circuits there has to be free passage for the fluid from the brake calipers to the resovoir when the pedal is at rest, as soon as the the pedal is moved down a small drilling is closed off that stops this free passage of fluid, this sealed off fluid is then forced down the fluid lines when you press the pedal, if when the pedal is at rest and this drilling is closed off the fluid has no where to expand to and so the only place it can go is to apply the brakes,

hello does the car stall or does it loose power and appear to stall, how do you correct the fault, could it be going in to limp home mode, stilll runs but lack of power

hello could it not be a faulty switch, contacts burnt out or dirty, if you gain access to the window motor wires, there will be two of them, put a bulb accross them and operate the switch, the bulb should light in both directions of the switch, or try the switch from the other side,

hello mine does sympton 3 quite a lot in cold weather, only when the engine is cold, in my case it is caused by excess oil pressure lifting the valves open slightly, it misses for a few seconds and then picks up and goes again, I read a bulletin about this somewhere, it only does it if I give it too many revs when cold.

hello yes I agree with seatkid, I have carried out extensive diagnostics using ford wds on this problem, basically what you are "probably" getting is the turbo overboosting, when the pressure gets past 2.2kpa the ecu shuts down the system in to a fail safe mode, I assume on yours that you have to switch off the engine to reset the ecu, on the early galaxy all that is required to reset the ecu is to back off the throttle and you are away again, a v reg galaxy that I fixed with this problem required the n75 valve replaced and all of the vacume pipes that control the turbo, oil can get in to them and block the free passage of air, you then get a situation in which the ecu has detected too much boost, it then tries to limit the boost via the n75 valve but because of the partially blocked pipes the control rod on the turbo is too late to respond and so over boost, appears to be quite common on these engines,

on the n75 valve there are three ports, when the valve is "not" energised two of the ports are connected, if you then energise the valve the main port then switches over to other that was not previously functioning, if you intend to test the valve you need to make sure that you energise it with the correct polarity, with solenoids there is usually a protection diode built in to the coil to get rid of back emf and connecting it backwards blows it up, turbo removal might be required, there is a website showing the internals,

not too sure but there is a possibility that it uses boost pressure to operate the control rod, trace the pipe that feeds it, it should go to a three way solenoid, I think called the n75 valve, then follow the pipes from there

I made a new one with plumbers fittings, 3/8 bsp elbow, 15mm copper pipe I had spare with a couple of bends made with plumbers pipe bending spring