f0ster

start with the basics, make sure the timing belt has not snapped, prise back the top of the belt cover for a look,

if it is the low pressure side then either cut the clamp off and replace it with a hose clip or replace the complete section of hose with another piece of hose, being the return there will not be much pressure involved, or take the complete section to a hydraulic hose specialist and he will make a new hose section to go on to your existing pipes,

all pre engauge starters have a one way clutch in them, it is located just behind the drive gear, when the engine starts the one way clutch prevents the starter from being spun up to disintegration speeds, this clutch can start to fail under load, when and if, it starts to fail you get squeeling noises

hello what do the sensors look like, if the resemble a very small thimble sized can with two connections an one end and a gauze at the other then that will be ultra sonic, one transmitter, one reciever, these can be bought seperately from electronics stores, or maplins, they wear out eventually and become unstable, usually only a couple of quid each try farnell or radio spares on line

just a word of caution here, mazda have fitted hydraulic dampers in the past and when changing the belt you have to pay carefull attention to the damper piston, if there are slight traces of oil in the vicinity of the piston it is possible that it has lost some or all of its oil and will not damp correctly,

you say in your reply that when it looses drive you release the accelerator and press it again and it cures it for a while, are you sure it is loosing drive or do you think that it is loosing power, (engine fault) just that this symptom is like the ecu (engine) is going in to limp home and resetting the accelerator resets the ecu.

I assume you have checked the fluid level, according to manufacturers spec, is there a gearbox level dip stick, if so does it have a hot and cold mark on it, what colour is the fluid, it should be bright red, if it has a brown tint to it then the fluid is in desperate need of a change, not ease on an auto because most of it is held in suspension in the converter and box passages,

get an aftermarket kit and get a local garage to do it, a full kit is the way to go, if you get a part fail in say 50k from when you replaced only the belt the cost of repairs will be huge

you could try a hot glue gun, it is slightly flexible when set, and glues most things, other than that, new part

if you shut off and accelerate does there appear to be a lot slop in the drive, if so the engine reaction bar under the vehicle might have snapped, or the securing bolt snaped, grab the top of the engine and see if it rocks easily

if the system is reset by switching off the ignition and back on, do you get boost for a short while, if it works for a short while then goes back in to limp home it will be because the boost pressure has gone too high which is picked up by the pcm and puts the system in to limp home, most likely turbo vanes sticking, there are other causes, the boost pressure control pipes can become blocked with oil preventing the air from getting to where it should, I would start with the cheap stuff, pipes and n75 valve (n75 controls the boost) unless you can find something obvious.

if the sensors are ultrasonic you can get just the sensor heads from electronics catalogues for a couple of quid each, there are usually two, one transmitter one reciever, they wear out eventually and become unstable, the way to tell if they are ultrasonic is to look at one and if it is the size of a small thimble with a piece of mesh at one end and electrical connections at the other, they are ultrasonic.

it sounds like it might be overboosting and going in to limp home mode, switching off the ignition resets the ecu and you are away again, once the boost goes past 2.2 kpa the ecu goes in to limp home mode and the ignition has to be switched off, on the early ones (1995) all you have to do to reset this fault is to back off the throttle and that resets the ecu, you need to check the turbo waste gate for it being siezed, if that is ok you need to replace the vacume pipes that feed the ecu and the turbo waste gate, also the n75 valve might have to be replaced along with the vacume pipes that feed it, oil gets in to these pipes and prevents the ecu from getting the correct reading, by the time the ecu has got the reading, the boost has gone critical and so the the ecu shuts down in to limp home to prevent damage,

hello I have had one of these cars that kept going in to limp home mode, (required ignition to be switched off and back on) turned out to be a couple of faults, first, the turbo wast gate was siezed and would not move, when that was replaced the fault was still there but not as bad, second, we replaced the vacume hoses because they were clocked up with oil, this cured it,

hello I have only just replaced mine on a 95 galaxy, the only option is usually recon, your old one will have to go in part exchange, if the spindle is snapped on your old unit some suppliers will charge you extra, you will have to change the oil and filter and it would be a good ides to change the air filter, pay very close attention to the intake to the turbo, if any thing gets sucked in and damages the blades even slightly it will put it out of balance and wreck it in no time,

yes it is possible, price the parts first, the switch and also the mounting panel that the switch sits in to, it is not going to be cheap because you will require a door wiring harness also for both sides, it will be possible to wire up the mirrors manually but it will not be easy if you have never done this sort of thing before, you will require a wiring diagram,

I have a 1995 galaxy diesel, it has alarm system fitted, movement sensors, dead locking, if you turn the key to lock twice it dissables the sensors,

if you are sure the engine mounts are ok, including the steady bar under the vehicle, I have seen the inner c/v joints cause this type of vibration, it is usually worst in first because of more torque available in first which causes the front of the car to lift and so put more angle on the inner c/v joints, examine the gaiters on the joints both inner and outer, also grab the drive shafts and see if you can turn it at all, there should be a tiny amount twist available, if there is more than a tiny amount of twist it indicates a worn outer joint, to check the inner joint do the same but this time grab the body of the inner joint and see how much you can move it in relation to the shaft,

yes!! but the implications are horrendous, there will be different wiring harness, different engine pcm, drive shafts??, the list of small differences could be endless, you will only find out most of them when it is too late,

hello first of all your car should already have an alarm fitted with movement sensors in the B pillars, and dead locking, as to the alarm circuit, there appears to be an ignition live on the circuit diagram missing, usually there is battery live, which it has, and an ignition live to prevent the alarm from being activated when the ignition is on, anyway what do you want to know, it should work without the ignition live,

when you have a car overheating it requires carefull diagnosis, is the car overheating and then blowing out the water, or is it blowing out the water and then overheating, there is a suttle difference between the two, the first is usually blocked radiator, caused by hard water (limescale blocks up the thin tubes) the second is a head gasket or a cracked head allowing pressure in to the cooling system, thermostats do not usually stick closed, most often they open sooner than they should making the car run cooler, it is east to test a thermostst in hot water, if the bottom of your rad is cold it might be the radiator, but as always start with the cheap stuff, test the stat in boiling water.

you should start with the basics, do a compression test, and go from there, if that checks out try to determine which cylinder is missfiring by pulling leads off while it is running, or even the injector feeds one at a time, there are lots of causes, an inlet manifold gasket drawing air can cause it and it is a real bitch to diagnose,

He is near Hetton-Le -Hole, Durham way. Steve, the cable will have came off at the gearbox end, one for forward back, the other for left to right, it is a ball and socket arrangment, the socket is worn, easy to fix tho, around the sides of the ball is a metal shield, drill a small hole in either side, put the socket back in to place, then put a piece of piano wire or a split pin accross the top of the ball joint and in to the two holes,