f0ster

I have also seen it caused by the pipes taking the boost pressure to the ecu, they get oil in them and then the pressure has difficulty getting to its destination, when it does overcome the blockage it overshoots causing it to go in to limp home,

it will take a good four hours if you have not done one before, most of the time is taken getting at the belt, there are marks on the pulleys to line up, if you are not sure put your own marks on the pulleys and casing with tipex, and the golden rule, turn it over by hand before trying to start it, checking for tight spots at tdc, you will manage ok,

what big oil pipe, do you mean the one feeding oil to the turbo, if so it could be oil pressure to high, holding the hydraulic cam followers open slightly, which will be oil pressure relief valve sticking

I had a mk1 and it was single mass, I have done a bora that was dual mass and put a single mass in place, there was no noticeable difference in the driving of the car, a big difference in my pocket,

try backing off the tensioner a tiny amount, they try it again

does it feel ok when driving if you ease off the throttle and gently back on, as for the play you need to compare with another

it is slightly more difficult to do, a first time doing a belt kit will take a good four hours, the golden rule, if not sure about the timing marks put your own marks on the pulleys and casing with tipex, and "always" turn it over by hand checking for tight spots,

if there is play in a diff it is usually the thrust washers behind the sun gears/planet gears, the crown wheel & pinion do not take any harm other wise it would be screaming at you with gear noise, this low rumbling noise, how do you know it is from the diff, it could be a front wheel bearing, when a bearing is starting to go you can feel vibration from the strut if you hold the spring and spin the wheel as fast as possible

it might be the master cyl failing, when I have this asort of problem I back bleed the system, get a good oil squirty type oil can full of fluid, put on it the bleed nipple with hose and pump away till your harts content, this method is very good small volume systems as well like motor bikes,

you need to give it good hounding on a quiet road to burn off the oil, it will smoke a bit

all they will do is replace the center bearing assy complete with turbine/compressor and fit your housings if they are ok, they buy them in ready balanced and setup,

if it has a dmf fitted I would definitely replace it with a single mass, cheaper and you will not notice the difference, I fitted a standard flywheel assy in to a bora diesel, no difference noticeable, with some manufacturers you get a a transmission rattle at a certain revs but I have not noticed anything like this with the bora, it is the friction pad in the dmf that wears out allowing it to slap from one point to the other point

just make sure it is not the rocker cover gasket, start with the cheap stuff

turbos have a floating bush that is rotating independently of the shaft which spins at up to 120,000 rpm, this way the bush can turn at half the shaft speed and so reduce the surface speed, and also being fully bathed in oil eliminates metal to metal contact, ball bearings would struggle to cope with such high speeds, turbo technology is well tried and tested, I have seen turbos on trucks with 1000000 km on the clock,

I always use a good quality squirty type oil can with brake fluid in it and back bleed it from the bleed nipple,

how old is it, if it has a bosch rotary pump then it will be the fuel running back, replace all of the return pipes on the injectors,

hello you do not say what year type etc, I have had this on a 1995 diesel and it was the vacuum pipes feeding the manifold pressure sensor that is located behind the instruments it was blocked with oil and the pressure was finding it hard to get to the sensor, there can be other reasons for this fault, with the early models when it went in to limp mode it is possible to reset it by backing off the throttle, on the later ones the ignition has to be switched off

hello if you have not had one apart before then it can be quite a task getting it back together the correct way, like the previous reply you could "very" carefully dissect the passengers lock, the fiddly bit is the circular spring and the small plate on either side of it, once you have mastered the orientation of the spring and the plates you are done, I think the locks are sided so you cannot just swap them, the plate on the back side of the spring broke with mine, you can get them separate on fleabay

hello if it is a flexible circuit board and if you can find where it is shorted you should be able to repair it, under the plastic covering there is copper and it can be soldered to, it depends on how small the track is that has shorted, I have repaired them before, you have nothing to loose, from what you say it is blown any way,

hello I recommend you start with the cheap stuff, ie the vacuum pipes that control the turbo boost, oil can get in to the pipes and prevent the correct boost pressure from getting to the boost sensor, if the boost overshoots it them goes in to safe mode to prevent damage, replace all of them, there should be one that goes to the ecu behind the dash at the drivers side

here is the autodata info in pdf for your model1.8tdci belt.pdf

hello again you say that you have had a new dual mass flywheel and clutch, are you sure they installed a dual mass flywheel, it is just that it is possible to get aftermarket flywheel/clutch kits for these that are not dual mass, you can fit them as a direct replacement for the dual mass version and off course they are a lot cheaper to buy, I have fitted one in the past due to extortionate cost of the dual mass version, the transmission chatter is common on some diesels prior to the introduction of dual mass, by pressing the clutch pedal to the point of slipping you dampen out the oscillation that is taking place.

when it makes the rattle if you put some weight on to the clutch pedal, just enough to prevent it from slipping does it reduce the noise or even make it go away

hello the buildup is caused by the crankcase breather pipe, it passes oil mist as well as the waste crankcase gasses, these gasses are not allowed to be vented to atmosphere and so they are recycled back in the the air intake, the resulting oil mist sticks to the inlet manifold where the heat is, inter coolers usually some oil in them from the same source, it is in liquid form due to being cooler, when it gets to the source of heat it starts to bake itself on, I do not know about the latest trucks but the older ones from about 7 or 8 years ago always vented these gasses to atmosphere.

hello I do not think it will make much difference to the warm up period, they are just very slow to warm up, the cooling effect of the rear pipes surface area is minimal to non existent, you could cover them with insulation and you could also blind off half the radiator, after all this radiator is used in lots of different climates and so a cold climate like ours can cope with less radiator showing,