frogeye

Hi, Is this a V6 or 2.3? Surely it can't be both?

Whoa there..... I think I've got that wrong, I've just nipped out to check on my MK2 (I've still not refixed these cubby boxes), the centre box comes out first and then the left hand one. On mine there are a couple of locating plastic clips that slot in to the left hand box, a tiit forward then towards the steering wheel motion seems to do the trick.... but hold on there are THREE torx screws in there; two on the left and one on the right side on the box - double check this before you start with your 'man-handling'. My catches seem to be quite different to yours, a pair of small plastic 'hooks', operated by the central push button, that catch in a couple of small rectangular holes in the the front of the box. My problem seems to be that several of the roll pins on the springing up hinge contraption have been replaced by a few rolls made of folded card! This causes my lid to sit up a bit higher than it ought and buggers up the alignment of the catches with their holes. I hope you read this before getting too stuck in to wrestling with the centre box. Frogeye

Hi, On my mk2 2.8V6 there is a sensor on the battery side of the radiator (about half way down). This has two temperatures stamped on it (105/95C - or there abouts), this then leads to the fan controller (I think). It could be that the lower temp is not triggering the fans and they are only coming on at the higher temp - perhaps this could be tested by shorting out the various combinations from the sensor. I vaguely remember when I was checking mine I had it stuck in boiling water with no effect and only got the fans to kick in with with a hot air gun on it (It's a shame that I didn't repeat the test with the new sensor to see what happened!). Saying that my fans only come on together even now, but my temp dial never gets past half way. Frogeye

Hi, Whilst this is an old thread that has been dragged up, the diagrams posted are really useful and I feel warrant a position on the FAQ. It took me ages to find them on here as well and I feel that this is a common enough problem on the older gals to warrant a sticky posting! By the way, I bought one of the paddles from Ford a couple of weeks ago, it was about

Hi, These cubby boxes will just wrestle out (after having removed the torx screws), although it may be that you have to take the left hand box out first (I can't quite remember!). Let us know how you get on as I've a dodgy catch as well and may need the same remedy. Frogeye

Hi, On my 2.8 I have a temperature sensor about 6" down on the left hand side of the radiator (as your sitting in the car), I'm not too sure on the 2.3 I'll have a look in the morning (maybe!!) If it is this I have on old one sat on my desk which you are welcome to (just as a plug that is, as it isn't working. Frogeye

Betty, Have a click on this link The side trim on the MK1 is a likey to be a bit different on the one pictured, but the idea is essentially the same - you want to get behind the fuse area to the relays behind.

Hi Betty, I've got my money on this being a relay 30 problem. I'm assuming that you were driving around merrily, park up, then come to your car the following morning to find this problem occur apparentely out of the blue. Whilst having a pair of working keys would be nice, you can manage well enough with your current set up (assuming you can get around this immobilzer issue). What relay 30 does is switch on your fuel pump once the correct key has been detected by the ring around the ignition. Relay 30 is seemingly a common fail point with galaxys (mine failed on my 2.3 following a couple of days of heavy rain - perhaps this problem is humidity related?) Anyway, this relay is about

Hi, Whilst I feel sorry for you, I am also glad that someone else is experiencing the same kind of intermittant immobilizer problems that I am - I'd be very interested to hear how your diagnostics progress. I've had my Mk2 2.8 for about 6 months and still not got to the bottom of this one. For me it usually happens after the car has had a short run and the engine is warm. If I pause when turning the iginition key (before engaging the starter) and observe the door led, if I gat the rapid flashing then the starter won't even turn, if all is clear then the car starts first time - however if I turn the key straight round to engage the starter with no pausing, then the engine starts without a problem although I still get the rapid led flashing (sometimes!) After one of these incidents (which have become significantly less frequent since having replaced the engine temperature sensor (both of them?), radiator temperature sensor, thermostat and water pump!), and the LED calms down after its one minutes worth of flashing it should then flash some coded message at you for the next 10 minutes or so - mine is 3 short flashes followed by one slightly longer flash. I'm still not too certain what this indicates but it could be due to a poor transponder signal/reading (I've only got one key!!) One trick I found that use to work quite often after a failed attempt was to remove the key from the ignition, listen for the afterrun pump to come on, let that run for 30-40 seconds and there would be a click from the relay/fuse area and then the car would start with a problem and no flashing lights. Do please let me know how this pans out for you, and whether your new battery sorts things out for you Good luck Frogeye

Great pictures. Are you going to finish off with a few pics of the towbar electrics for us! :)

Are you sure this isn't an intermittant immobilzer issue (relay 30) - what is the led on the drivers door doing when this is failing to start?

Hi, Sorry there seems to be a surge of aircon topics on the go at the moment, but here's mine anyway... I'm working through the tis disc fault finding section for my mk2 vr6 climate control, one of the sections I should be checking for voltages etc., is module C16 - the compressor control module: I cant find any guidance as to the location of this module, I've only two wires leading to the compressor itself and I can't trace those two wires back, no sign of them in the dash area - does anyone have any idea where I should be looking? Thanks in advance. Frogeye sorry for the disjointed picture of the module

Hi, I did a water pump replacement on my VR6 a few months back and had to slacken the engine mounting bolts and use a big lump of wood to lever the engine over to give me enough clearance to get the pump out. You may find that there is a bit more room on your 2.3. Frogeye

Hi, Is the clicking going for the entire duration of all journeys? Have you got a tow bar with electrics? If it is a loud clicking sound then perhaps is may be related to the towbar electrics - may be you have a short in one of the sockets that is causing the 'trailer relay' (or whatever that noise/alert thing is) to come on. My relay 30 never made any clicking noises on its way out ! Frogeye

Hi, I've been chasing this down myself recently and came across an old post from NikpV, which I'll try to put a link to: door lock I popped in to a VW dealer on Friday who told be the set of components was about

Nice pictures Nige22! Let us know if you find a source for MK2 speaker covers - I'm after a beige one! :ph34r: Regards, Frogeye

Hi, What are you hoping to do with the ECU number? How are the problems with your immobilizer presenting themselves? When I had immobilizer issues with my 2.3 Auto (T-reg), the cr@p garage that I had taken it to for a diagnostic sent the ecu off to be checked and it came back all clear - I later established that it had been a relay 30 fault causing the problems (well covered in the FAQ section here). Is it just the RAC guy who has made you have concerns about the ECU or are there other factors? Frogeye

I've recently been through this with my 2001 v6. If you've got Vag.com the measuring blocks on the 'engine' diagnostic should indicate which cylinder is misfiring - you can then verify this by disconnecting the low voltage wiring to the coil in question with the engine running and there should be no change if you've got the correct one. Appearantly the 2001/2 models were shipped with a dodgy batch of coils which Ford chose not to recall. I started with a new set of plugs (have not had the car long and had no idea when they had last been done), the ones I took out looked like the originals (NGKs with Audi symbol on), my new set (double platinums NGK - about

You could try four slim nails - insert them then bend them outwards to depress the inner clips and gentle jiggle the unit out. Frogeye

Hi, It sounds to me like it might be a coil pack failure, have a search of this forum for a more detailed diagnostic. Some where I have a pair of secondhand coil packs that I misguidedly changed on my Aspen (It turned out to be the MAF sensor) - if you're Huntingdon you are welcome to pick them up or PM me your address and I'll attempt to stick them in the post to you - I'm pretty sure that they are okay as the new ones made no change to the problem that my engine was having. New coil packs are about

I have used some kind of water pipe purifier on the internal water supply pipes of my caravan with a fair degree of success, you should be able to pick some up from camping/caravanning shop. You put it in the main reservoir, circulate it through the pipes then leave for 24 hours and flush out. Frogeye

Hi, I know there is some history of early MK2 V6's having a dodgy batch on pencil coil packs so I have been waiting to have some kind of issue in this department but I am a little uncertain that there may be something else going on that underlies this problem. My 2001 V6 had been a little bit juddery in the 1200rpm neck of the woods but nothing much more than that, however on changing my pollen filter (removing the bulkhead extension(?), dropping the wiper mechanism a bit, removing air filter box, MAF and next hose section) when I re-assembled things a day or two later (a possibility that there may have been a bit of rainfall at some point) I managed to slightly bugger up the connector on the MAF - I somehow managed to get the male connectors to slide along the sides of the female connectors rather than into them. Anyway on starting the car it ran like an absolute dog, so I plugged it in the VAG.COM and had a whole host of fault codes: Control Module Part Number: 022 906 032 Q Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC ME7.1 G 0011 Software Coding: 00033 Work Shop Code: WSC 00000 4 Faults Found: 16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0300 - 35-00 - - 16689 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs P0305 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate 16497 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs P0113 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent 16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low P0102 - 35-00 - - On seeing the MAF problem, I went to check the connection and realised that it was not seated properly and reconnected that (a few broken bits of plastic but seemingly nothing worse than that). The engine then ran a bit better, cleared the fault codes and looked at the block reading (under Engine 01) and looked at groups 15 and 16 which indicate the misfire count all pointing the finger at cylinder 5 misfiring, I managed to disconnect the connector from the pencil coil pack on cylinder 5 and there was no change to the engine tone. - This is me counting the cylinders from left to right - I changed all the spark plugs for NGK double platinums (no change), eventually managed to get a pencil coi pack (from Euro Car Parts

Hi, Are your wipers working on all speeds? When I had an indicator failure, my wipers only worked on full speed and it turned out to be the 3A CANBUS fuse in the engine bay next to the near side headlight in a little black box. Replaced that and all sorted. Frogeye

Hi, I had the maf problem on my 2.0 N-reg last summer ( it took my a set of plugs and leads, two coil packs and a couple of thorough idle valve cleaning sessions before I found that it had been the MAF all along!!) I ran the gal with the MAF disconnected for a couple of weeks before I bought one off ebay (I'm fairly sure that is where I bought it anyway - I'll try and check later) I don't remember it costing too much either. Remember to protect the female end of the MAF connector in a bit of cling film to protect the contacts from getting to much dirt in whilst you are between MAFs. Frogeye

Hi, I had this problem with my Mk1 2.3 auto last summer, turned out to be relay 30, which controls immobilizer/fuel pump, the flashing led on the drivers door is a strong clue in this direction. There is a very good faq on this - I'll try and post a link http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ost&p=68423 The relay costs about