frogeye

Forgive me but I might just try and crowbar my own lcd problem on the back of this thread.... (on my 2001 MK2 V6) I get the right information displayed on the lcd/led, but when I either push the toggle button up or down, or press the trip 1/2 switch on the underside, I will only be 'allowed' one change of display per journey. So on one journey I might be able to change from minutes travelled to mpg, the next journey from mpg to average mpg, the next journey from trip1 to trip2, etc, etc... Weird! Anyone care to suggest a reason/solution for this? Thanks in advance, Frogeye

Does this ever start? Is it a sudden occurance or been getting worse for a while? What is the LED doing on the corner of the drivers door whilst it is turning over? Frogeye

Hi Steve, A few months late replying but yes, certainly the rear and central seat belts have swapped over from my MK1 to my MK2 very easily. This week end I am trying to figure out the front seat belts which look a bit trickier as they have the pretensioner on them - I 'll let you know! Frogeye

I also swapped my passenger handle over to the drivers side and eventually got around to sorting out the broken barrel. You will have to go to Ford to get the replacement bit (I think it is call an eccentric), its about 30mm long with a little cage at one end (which is the bit that breaks - shown in pic 9 on the link) and a paddle at the other end. I seem to remember it costing about

whoops!

Hi, You could try unplugging you MAF sensor and seeing if things improve. I spent a few hundred quid on my 2.0 P-reg gal doing spark plugs, leads, coil packs and it eventually ended up being the MAF sensor that was causing the problems. Just unplug the lead and wrap it in a bit of clingfilm, obviously if this does the trick then you should replace the MAF (

Hi Simon, I would definetly recommend changing relay 30, possible relay 167 as well. These are only about

Hi, My 2.3 gal is in the process of being reassembled after having the head skimmed. I also replaced the timing chain and tensioner etc, but have hit a problem. I have got a friend to do the work for me and he thinks he may have go the new timing chain on a tooth out of sync, (its not firing - but no bad sounds!), he says that I should be ordering up a replacement timing chain tensioner as these can only be set once - is this right? I think these are about

I'd check relay 30.. I bet that it was raining when your Gal cut out on you.

Hi, Surely you need to be a bit concerned about the integrity of these tyres - have they had any repairs, uneven wear, etc.. Frogeye

Hi, Have you checked what the LED in the drivers door is doing whilst this is failing to start - it could be an intermittant immobilizer issue. Frogeye

Hi Anma, The flashing display indicates a fault with the climate control system, not necessarily a need for a re-gas. If you get hold of a lead and vagcom software you should be able to read the fault codes that the unit is flashing about. The software will also give a readout for the voltages going to your fan/s which may help you. When I got my V6 the climate control unit was covered in a sticky mess, probably due to split drinks in the badly placed cup holders overhead. I managed to disassemble the unit and clean up the buttons but my unit still sometimes changes the fan speeds itself! My a/c isn't blowing cold inspite of a regas and is a project I hope to set on once the weather picks up a bit. Frogeye

Thanks Seatkid - you do know your stuff! I cant think that I've ever heard this on my 2.3, just the 2.8, if the 2.3 ever runs again I'll keep my ears peeled (or whatever it is that ears do). It's good to know that this is normal though. Thanks again, Frogeye

Hi, I hope that someone can shed a little light on what is making a short (2-3 second) whirring noise when I open my drivers door - getting into the car, rather than getting out. I've just popped outside to refresh my failing memory with some detail. The V6 gal has been parked up all weekend, I've opened the door (wasn't locked so no key/remote involved) and this noise starts as the interior lights flick on and stops seconds later - door still ajar. When I try this again a second time, no noise. It seems that the car has to be left for a further period of time (hours) before this happens again. What is it? It sounds like it is coming from the dash area or maybe the back of the engine bay, it's pretty hard to tell. It sounds very much like a pump priming, but surely nothing should be being triggered by the door switch? Any ideas anyone? Thanks, Frogeye

Hi, On my free trial vag com version, I have to click the 'Force dumb mode" box for my lead to work. Frogeye

Hi, It's probaby worth getting hold of a diagnostic lead and software (about

Hi, Just check that your rear screenwash is working first. I have recently noticed that my pipe was disconnected (all be it in the passenger footwell) and merrily filling up the matting under the carpets with a slippery to touch liquid (i.e. screenwash!) - an easy fix but one i must make a proper go of. There is a good post of this somewhere on the forum! Good luck. Frogeye

Hi, I am shortly to undertake a head gasket replacement on my T-reg 2.3l auto galaxy 99k miles. The symptoms are a massive pressurization of the coolant system, the thermostat housing has split, bottom radiator hose was blown off it's fitting. I've looked at the spark plugs and they are all dry. Since the initial incident, which comprised an engine shutdown following a 5 mile journey with the bottom radiator being blown off, total loss of all coolant, I have refilled the coolant but whilst the engine turns over it doesn't fire. There is some beeping from the instrument panal (I must remember to nip out and count the beeps next time) and a petrol smell whilst trying. Anyway I have resigned myself to undertake a head gasket replacement (with the assistance of a competent friend), and wonder if there are any other jobs / components that I should be replacing when doing this. I am currently intending the following: Head gasket replacement New thermostat New thermostat housing Replace water pump (have suspicion that this maybe the root cause of the gasket failure) Replace aux belt Oil filter Oil change Coolant fill I was not intending on changing timing chain or tensioner, but would welcome any tips, warnings or whatever the forum cares to respond with. Thanks in advance, Frogeye

Does the switch on the drivers main control unit still operate the window?

i am wrong then :) Gregers, you're only partly wrong. I only seem to be able to check individual modules and am unable to run a full diagnostic! I wasn't sure though, that this may be down to the fact that I haven't upgraded my software. The v6 gives me a lot more information on vagcom than my 2.3 (which I think is a ford engine). From what Mike has said above, I have to wonder then if my 2.3 is set to 'economy' mode and the V6 set to 'sport' which may contribute to the differing performance levels between my two galaxys. If it wasn't so bloody cold outside I'd be out there trying it out. I can't remember seeing anything about these settings/options for the auto gearbox being mentioned in the handbook at all. I'll try and post back with an update in due course. Frogeye

Hi, Thanks Mike - I was hoping that something like this might exist. I guess I'm going to have to fork out for the fully paid up version of Vagcom rather than freebie download that I have been managing with up to now. It seems strange that there isn't a straight forward control switch to hop between these differing modes as there is on many other automatics. I'm not sure that I'm going to have a much of chance to look into this before Christmas, but it gives me something to research online whilst trapped at the in-laws over the holidays! Thanks, Frogeye

Hi, Whilst I do enjoy driving my 2001 Auto V6 gal (now with new plugs and coil packs), as it brings back memories of having a 205 gti, I can't help but feel that surely my auto box is a bit too enthusiatic at dropping down a gear and giving me a bit more poke with barely any effort made on the pedal. In other automatics I've driven in the past, most of them have had a button that puts them in 'sports mode', ie seemingly keeping things in a higher rev band than normal or economy driving mode. Is there such a thing with Galaxy automatics? Are there parameters that can be set through Vag.com that control the level of activity of the autobox? (I'm assuming that there is not a switch tucked away somewhere descreet!) Or it the whole thing entirely psychological when regularly switching between the wife's 2.3 Auto Gal (bus) and my 2.8 Auto Gal (sports car!) And honestly, I'm not just flooring it all the while! Any views or experience of this would be appreciated. Frogeye

Is that the stereo with numbers 2-5 that pop out in a removable bit? I had some problems with one of these and good clean of these contacts seem to solve my problem (a bit tricky though as the contacts are like little springs, be careful with them!). I think having the drinks holder directly about the stereo may well be to blame! Frogeye

You really ought to have started your own thread - but saying that this one has such universal appeal that it warrants being resurfaced! What is the LED in the driver's door doing when this is failing to start? If it is flashing manically, then relay 30 is very likely the culprit. I'm sure there is a link between heavy rainfall and relay 30 failures!! :) Frogeye

Hi Budgie, To change the plugs you first need to remove the plastic engine cover. Towards the back on the engine you'll see 6 leads going in the pencil coil packs: It is really hard to take these wiring clips off the coil packs (certainly was on mine in any case!). There is probably some technique that helps them off, but a bit of brute force and got them off (only broke 4 out of the 6!! - they push back on well enough but don't click locked anymore) - some one technically minded may post back with a bit of better guidance to this stage Once the wiring is off one coil pack, it can then be persuaded off the plug with a gentle lift with small lever, a spray of wd40, a bit of jiggling with some pliers and several stern words. It is worth checking down the hole that there is not too much debree around the plug, I had to clean around my plug first with some paper towel and chopstick, just so that no crud falls into the engine when removing the plug. (When you see the amount of corrosion on my coil/plug you can understand that this was an important step for me - I think my gal may have had a try at swimming in the sea!) The plug can then be removed with a normal spark plug socket and extension bar. Make some brief note about the state of each plug somewhere (sooty, wet, scorched, etc) - as this may be useful when diagnosing future problems. Put your new plug in but may sure that is doesn't get cross threaded (I used masking tape to hold it into my socket), and don't over tighten. ............... As for changing your oil, there is an excellent post on the FAQ section cover this: V6 oil change Don't forget to change your air filter as well! Regards Frogeye