derekod

On my V5 cert the spec is listed as a 1.9 TDDi is this a misprint? and should it have been a 1.9 TDi? As far as I am concerned it is a 2006 Ford Galaxy Zetec 130BHP TDi The reason for asking is the car is being imported into Ireland and the VRT appears to be less for a TDDi spec.

Just purchased a 2006 Galaxy Zetec 130BHP to replace my 2002 model, there is 113,000miles on it. The clutch actually felt light when I took the car for a test drive. After travelling about 250 motorway miles the clutch is taken more effort to depress. Is there any way of squirting some lube on the slave cylinder without having to go to the bother of removing the gearbox to verify?

First of all I must state that my description on the topic was not worded the best and is not open to correction on the forum. Took it along to my local Ford Garage as they said the problem was common, the minute I described the problem to them before they sat in the car they new what it was. They said that the car could drive like that for a good while yet before anything would fail. Seeing as I have been out of the trade since 1996 I was not familiar with how these dual mass flywheels act up. All I knew was that the engine was vibrating just in that rev range as though something was not firing properly, a lesson to be learned.

Just so that I can make a final decision on whether to look for something else, Has anyone here installed the single mass conversion kit rather than the DMF and what they would recommend? What is it like to replace jacked up on stands, would you recommend it?

I actually put in the wynns stop leak yesterday and was actually surprised at how well it worked I usually don't have much faith in some of those products but it appears to be holding its level for now. I lifted the bellows and you could feel the weight of oil in there, have not noticed the steering getting heavier either. It will obviously be a temporary measure until I decide what to do.

It has just been confirmed it is the Dual Mass Flywheel and to top it off I have just noticed the steering lack leaking fluid, I don't think its worth spending the money on her.

I have just ordered up one of those cables, and yes I do believe it has the original DMF fitted. There was about 96k on it when I purchased it back in 2006 and there was no record of it being replaced in the service history.

Just to provide an update on this issue, I have just read on another vw forum there was a Passat with almost identical symptoms and in the end his problem was the DMF. I have been inactive in the mechanic field since 1996 and have not have the experience of replacing a Dual Mass Flywheel, could this be the source of my problem? I know there was a recall on late 2002 models, but mine is a January 2002 build. How common are these to fail?

Which cable do I need to get to work with VCDS lite for the 2002 Ford Galaxy 1.9 tdi 115

Just to clarify on the post above it doesn't have a fast idle, it is when I bring the revs up to 1200 rpm it is not running as it should as if a spark plug or lead is breaking down in that rpm range. I was just reading through some of the other posts and now I am starting to think that it maybe related to the injector wiring under the valve cover, but if it was why is only happening at the low end and not all the way through the rev range?

My 1.9 tdi 115bhp Galaxy is suddenly starting to experience a rough fast idle at around 1200rpm, it feels like a mild spark plug misfire, it is only present at 10000 to 15000 rpm. It feels totally fine while it is up in the rev band, could it be a vacuum leak, or the egr valve? I am just hope it is nothing serious like one of the injectors starting to go on it. Is it possible for the injector to act up only at low rpm? There are no extra noises from the head area. It has about 222820 miles on it now,

The Front Wipers suddenly stopped working on my 2002 MKII Galaxy, and it was due to the nut securing the spindle to the wiper motor loosening. I have tightened up the nut while the wipers are parked but they are either hitting each other at the park position. What is the correct procedure and aligment for setting the link back on to the motor? I presumed it would have been to let the motor park itself while the linkage was disconnected from the motor and just tighten up.

I need to replace the passenger side inner steering rack end on my 2002 ford galaxy, I am a while out of the trade now so do I need to do any drilling to remove it or is it just locked into place, also what size spanner is needed if it is just tightened into place. I presume I should have enough clearance to replace it without dropping the rack?

I appear to be having difficulty in programming my key back to the car for central locking. I have just replaced the batteries, When the key is turned in the drivers door 3 times the warning indicator comes on, I hold the lock button then press the open button three times while the warning indicator is still lit, release both buttons, keyfob looks like it is flashing a code as though it is pairing, but there is no response from the warning indicator on the door to indicate that it has being programmed.

I have just located an old post http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/20125-drivers-door-lock-barrel-busted/ which also has a diagram of the assembly. Is it possible that the key will not turn in the barrel because the top paddle assembly is broken?

It is a 2002 MKII and it is the back end of the assembly that has collapsed, unfortunately I can not get the key to turn in the barrel after spraying it with wd40. Do you know where I can locate a diagram that will show an xploded view of this barrel and key.

My Drivers Door key barrel has just collapsed and I have just ordered up a new assebly with the handle included. I was told when ordering it up that I could not get it to match with my original key code, so I am now faced with having to use two seperate keys one for opening the door and the original for starting the engine. I thought I read someplace where vw do a kit that you can match the code to your keys is this right? Or else I maby faced with swapping the barrel from the new assembly with the passenger door. When i had the handle apart I could not locate the release pin for the barrel, I presume there is one present or does it have to be drilled out? Any help appreciated.

The last time that I changed the stub axle and shaft on mine there was no oil leakage which I found strange, unless mine was slightly low on oil. Anyway I have just ordered up those polish driveshaft's and the centre drive bolt and seal from my local Ford dealership and expect to do the job later this week when all the parts arrive.

Is the vibration just through the steering wheel or the felt through whole car? I had a similar situation with mine when I replaced the inner drive boot as I had the front of the car up on axle stands, when I completed the job and took it for a test drive it felt similar and got worse when I turned the steering wheel slightly. I could only presume with mine that it must have been some wear and tear within the drives as they were sitting at a different angle jacked up, once I drove in a figure 8 a couple of times with a complete lock f the steering wheel it appeared to settle down. Let me know how you get on.

Where can I purchase the sound deadening foam for a 1.9tdi AUY at a reasonable price, my local Ford Dealer was looking for €147 today, I asked him was it made from Gold he then quoted I don't think it is even worth €47 don't mind €147. I hope it was a typo error.

I am also contemplating getting these shafts, is the broken compression ring available as a seperate item and if so what is the part number for it. I was in with my local Ford Dealer today and he could not identify that compression ring as a seperate item. Aso I presume the parts just transfer from the original stub onto the modified stub.

Finally got around to replacing the Timing Belt, Tensioner and Water Pump today, thought I was going to run into trouble though as the four pulley studs did not want to come out to handy and stripped the hex head on two of them, had to beat in a splined socket which shifted them in the end. Going to order up four new studs, the hydraulic tensioner also turned out to be a bit of a pain as it was not compressing to easy when I was winding back the tensioner with the recommended tool had to use the hex socket to ease it back, got it set up in the end with the 4mm gap. Next job to tackle now is the half shaft and hub which I have previously replaced, obviously a poor design. How well do those polish modified half shafts stand up? I am contemplating getting one of these this time around.

I just purchased the timing belt tools and weather permitting I will do this tomorrow as I will be out in the open. As a guideline what is the actual book time allowed to replace the water pump? I know it will take me longer as I will be doing it with the car jacked up! I read on another forum that the sump is weak on these but I imagine I should be ok once it is fully supported with a block of timber. Anything to watch out for?

I have just replaced the passenger side inner drive boot as it was split, everything cleaned and regreased no sign of excessive wear to the eye. I have previously replaced the Drivers side inner half shaft and hub, but taking a closer look at it today I think it may need replacing again, a little bit more play than what I would like but at the same time she is not crashing going into first or second like it did prior to replacing it the first time. None of the other drives are split, but maby worn due to the high mileage, but I am wandering if they might be contributing to the low speed wobble which is just evident initially while the car is dropped down off of the jacks. While doing a few figure 8's there is a slight judder effect coming through the steering column, but it all settles down after a little bit of driving and does not come back. There is 200.000 miles on the car now Although the upper strut mounts creak from lock to lock while jacked up, but found no obvious play. Could they be related to the low speed wobble? when they are bedding back into position. Somehow I doubt it! as I did not observe any free play.

I am not sure if it is ok to ask this here on the forum but has anybody purchased from http://www.superpowertools.co.uk and is it a legit site. As they have a good price on the VSE5951 Timing Tool Kit.