derekod

Just providing another update on this issue, I finally got to the bottom of what was the cause of the knocking sound and is something that can easily be overlooked. The sound was actually coming from the brake pads sliding up and down within the bracket and could not be heard by hitting the calliper with a mallet, they were a Ferodo brand and I had used them before with no issue and have always being lubricated. It was only when I separated the calliper I could notice the obvious play so I just tightened them up by using a dot punch at the retaining ears to try and spread the metal a little until it is time to replace them.

Just to provide an update. I removed both drop links to eliminate them and there is no play in the roll bar and the noise is still present. There is also no play in the outer tie rods or bottom ball joints. I have tried hitting the tyre with a rubber mallet and have heard nothing obvious. There is no excessive play felt in the engine trying to rock it back and forward. I could not feel any excessive play in the callipers but the pads are worn down close to the wear sensor so there is probably less of a hold on the slider bolts to stabilise them, so I will check these out next. Following that it will be to try and check the gearbox mount on the passenger side.

I am experiencing a knocking sound similar to drop links at times on bumpy roads and I am starting to question myself as to whether if this noise that I hear at present is after getting worse after doing some repairs on the car. History of work done so far: I have replaced front struts and mounts with KYB ones, as one side was grinding. I replaced the upper spring plates afterwards as they were worn oval and had cut into the original strut. I then replaced the KYB upper mounts with Meyle HD mounts as the their appeared to be to much end float ant touching the upper body of the car. I have replaced both inner tie rod ends with meyle ones as there was play in one side and new boots as one was split. Previous to carrying out the above work I noticed that I was getting a slight clunk while pulling away in first gear from the left front which was not present going through the rest of the gears which I put down to play in the outer cv joint, and seeing as I use to get low speed wobble after lowering the car down after being jacked up I put that down to the inner joints. I replaced the front roll bar bushings as there was little play felt in them, which showed a lot of wear in them when replaced. My noise is still present over bumps, I can not feel any play in the drop links but they have not being replaced. I have checked the lower ball joints for play, nothing noticed. I have replaced the lower wishbone bushings on both sides. I have checked the tightness of the subframe bolts and steering rack. I have just replaced both the front drive shafts with J&R ones (Which I was hesitant but the price was good). My noise is still present but maybe not as severe. I have noticed that there is still some lateral play between the driveshaft and outer cv joints on the car that will cause a noise heard underneath. How much play is normal for the Galaxy if any should be allowed. I have yet to drive the car at motorway speeds to see how the car drives with the new drives. Advice welcome.

Can someone here on the forum recommend an inner tie rod removal tool that works on the MKII Galaxy. I had borrowed one for my previous Galaxy which makes the job a lot easier. I also want to know if someone can recommend a conditioner for the steering system that would be compatible, just noticed one of the boots split yesterday with a little oil on the bottom control arm. I have not noticed the oil dropping in the reservoir so hopefully the rack is still good although there are 160K miles on her at this time.

I have just been looking at font shocks and bottom control arms on autodoc site, can anyone put these brands into order of reliability as they are all listed for the bottom control arms. Topran Delphi Mapco Vaico Optimal ABS Monroe Diedrichs Triscan Metsger Kager TRW

I have just replaced both upper strut mounts and bearings but am still surprised with the amount of end float clearance. Both of the spring mount plates have worn oval in shape and cut into the shocks.

I have just replaced all 4 tyres on mine and the right rear had excessive negative camber tyre wear down to the chords, but they were cheapy tyres on the back for over two years, I do have a little up and down movement in the number 3 bushings but they shouldn't really cause negartve camber wear. I did not even get a year out of the front, premium tyres, But I do have to replace the upper shock mounts. Is bushing 4 just to adjust toe?

Is there a sticky here for the Rear Subframe Outer bushings? What are they like to do with the car jacked up on the ground? Is it worth trying to do jacked up, do I need a pullers?

The engine is not as smooth running you can feel the extra bit of vibration transferring through the steering wheel. Cold very well be cam or lifter wear but I don't here any excessive noise from the top end, just have not got around to pull the valve cover as off yet. Must have a look out for the Ford TIS manual. I don't hear any obvious vacuum leaks. Is there a way of checking out the injector loom with the VCDS lite? Unless there is high resistance on one of the injector connectors, nut sure if that is possible to cause a reduced fire?

I have had this slight Imbalance for a while now as you can feel it if you bring the revs up steady. Fuel consumption I feel is good around 44mpg average Urban. Acceleration feels good it has improved since I had advanced the timing with the torsion value reading .6 to 1.1 after replacing the timing belt and water pump. I would rule out an issue with the DMF as that was replaced earlier in March when the slave cylinder failed. I don't think it is an issue with the Injector Loom as I am not experiencing a definite miss in the engine and this is not intermittent it is there the whole time. I have not pulled off the valve cover as of yet but I am starting to feel it maybe some cam wear or possibly injector adjustment With VCDS measuring blocks at idle I am getting readings Cylinder 1 -26 mg/str Cylinder 2 .24 mg/str Cylinder 3 -.59mg/str Cylinder 4 .59mg/str There is 160,000 miles on the clock

Should I be able to clear codes with VCD Lite? What is the latest version that can be run on the 2006 Galaxy MKII? I am using an OBD2 II KKCL Cable with the VCD Lite at present.

I just hooked up the vcd lite software which I had and there was an Fault 19463 P3007-35-10 Intermittent Camshaft Sensor, looks like my hunch was right, now to price one.

Lately my MKII 1.9tdi is getting harder to start when the engine is warm, initially I thought it might have been the heater plugs but it always starts on first turn when cold. There are no check engine management lights coming on. So now I am either starting to think coolant sensor or camshaft sensor. Engine runs fine no missing or chugging. Might just have to bring it in for a diagnostic check.

What is the correct wheel alignment specifications for a 06 MKII. I had the car aligned 3 months ago and the inner rib is worn down with thread remaining I know it is not all camber wear as it had a feather edge wear on the inner rib front to back. This had a toe out as a default specification. The car has not hit any potholes either to throw it out, and there are no signs of free play. I have just had the car realigned and a second facility and this has been toed in as default setting, and I can feel a slight feather edge on the outer rib now.

I decided to go ahead and replace the resistor anyway and turned out to be the cause of the fault. I am also experiencing poor heat from the car and noticed that the run on pump was not functioning properly so I have replaced this and has improved the heat inside the cabin, I feel that this pump can be miss diagnosed as a poor sign of heat from the front heater. I thought at first I had a problem with the impeller on the water pump as I was not seeing much flow happening at the expansion tank, now it has improved but feel it could be better. I have also purchased a new thermostat and will replace that shortly when I have free time and see if there is any improvement in the time it takes to reach normal operating temperature. Out of curiosity how long should it take for the Galaxy 1.9 tdi to reach normal temperature with an outside temperature around 5 degrees travelling at 40-50mph? (miles travelled and time taken)

Does anyone on the forum have the resistor values to check the heater resistor. The blower has failed on 1 and 2 setting and would like to confirm before ordering a new resistor. Also the A/C Light comes on and engages the AC in position 1&2 only. Position 3&4 turns on the blower motor and turns of the A/C operation.

I do notice some extra drivetrain noise through the box especially in first and second while pulling away when you have the windows down, but can't be sure if the DMF was masking it before, as there is 119,00 miles on the car. I might try some molyslip and see if it helps, as long as it doesn't make it harder to go into gear.

I would just like to provide an update on this matter, the noise was actually from the DMF there was no sign of any play or anything unusual when the gearbox was first taken out. The warranty which was on the car would not cover it as they deemed it not to be a failure, but just wear and tear. (I feel this could be arguable). I have decided to have the solid conversion kit installed. There does not appear to be any more engine noise at idle. If anything the gear change appears to have improved. Clutch pedal has a nice feel to it now as it felt a little heavy with the original.

I have just had the csc replaced on my 2006 MKII 130BHP as it there was a tearing sound from the bearing as it was half way pressed. There was no noise when the car was in neutral with the pedal fully pressed or released. The clutch looked new on the car so it wasn't replaced, the problem is that the tearing sound is back again after one days usage, I have never experienced this before, I was told the csc is the same one used for a normal clutch to a heavy duty clutch.

Does anyone hear on the forum have access for the K.I.S repair times to replace a clutch on a 2006 MKII Ford Galaxy 1.9tdi 130BHP? The reason I ask is because the car has a 4 star warranty from the WMS group which will cover up to

I have actually just replaced the vacuum pipe recently it was split in three places.

Yeah it is still the MKII model, I think they are starting to improve a little but it might also be me getting used to the brakes. The car will be going on a rolling road test in a few weeks and that should let me know how good or bad they are.

I have just replaced mine it was split in three places, at the servo and at both ends of the elbow connection at the vacuum pump. It is awkward to route if you are going to do it from above as I found out, you will be feeding it blind in places. On mine it was snapped it to three clips to hold it in place, but I only managed to secure it back to two of them. There is a white alignment marker which should be secured on to the middle clip. If there is any vacuum left in the servo just pump the brake pedal to release it, it will make it easier removing the fitting from the servo end. You also might have to pry of the fitting on the vacuum pump side as it was tight on mine. I will have to drop the under body tray at some point to make sure that it is routed without obstruction, just for piece of mind.

The reason that I think that they might be fake is because the car has poor stopping power compared to my 2002 Ford Galaxy. I left a message through their webform but I never received any reply.

I am trying to diagnose if my recently purchased 2006 Ford Galaxy Zetec 130BHP has fake brake pads fitted. The car has obviously been sitting around for a little while as there was a light coating of surface rust on the discs. I am after bleeding the brakes all round with fresh fluid to flush out the lines. I am after removing each calliper and pad assembly to make sure that everything is moving freely. The pads look as though there is about 1000 to 3000 miles on them from new. FERODO brake pads are fitted all round, should there be any stamping on the pad itself? or is there just the marking on the backing material which will rub off with solvent. Researching online I have only noticed anti-counterfeit measures which FERODO have on there packaging. If I thought these were fake pads I would have no hesitation in replacing them, and I feel this issue should be highlighted and placed on the forum Is there anyone on the forum here that would have Genuine FERODO brake pads at there disposal that they could upload pictures that might help distinguish between Genuine and Fake brake pads.