Mauser

Mine has round posts :unsure:, Not sure if 1 is smaller than the other its dark outside. Will see what vauxhall have to offer tomorrow night. Thanks for the help Simon

2.3 Auto 1999 Ghia, Battery suffering now the weather is turning colder, had flat battery this morning :unsure:. Anyway there is no labels on the battery and the book says nowt about ratings, would I be ok to go for an AC Delco 50amp/hour unit from Vauxhall ?, why Vauxhall you might say, well there local to me and they come with a 3 year warranty and I can get trade prices, last 1 I brought was a great battery and was around

Sounds like the thermal fuse is tripping or whatever its called ?, would suggest its still tight somewhere as it does the same symptoms as a seized linkage like I had. Can you move the arms without the motor attached ?, that might point to whats causing the unit to trip out ?. Main dealer will only puzzle same as you and chareg you

Hi, I think in the past the wiring has been mentioned as being damaged where it passes through the door to the door pilar, if the cable is the same as the tail gate then I would at least check for any broken wires ?. Soz not much help as fairly new to Galaxies and mine's been reliable so far....biggest problem was wife backed me into a builders fence the other day then said "Stop" after I had hit it B), 30 seconds of ranting and then I chilled, after all its only a piece of metal at the end of the day. Simon

I'm with you vr6galaxy, More than 1/2" snow and its stay @ home time with heating on number 9, a cup of coffee and a bar of chocolate :). Soz bit of topic....there again a topic is a chocolate bar :D. Simon

Nice Chrome, Really wish I had looked into petrol usage a bit more before getting a 2.3 auto lol. I think you should get between 40 and 50 to the gallon which would be great news. Filling up would should be a rare occasion :angry:. Happy motoring Simon

Be warned if your loom fails and you lose power to the tail gate its a sod to get the hatch open, please check the wires now as better find breaks now rather than later :P. Simon

Steve, Don't suppose there is in any spare wires in another loom you could use ?, sometimes I think they add them for different models ?. Might be worth a look ?. Anyway good luck Simon

Here's what I used to remove mine if you cannot remove the arms :unsure:. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...t=0entry39465 Someone else has posted removal of the arm etc :). Good luck its not to bad. Simon

Or if your struggling http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...t=0entry39465 Simon

Hi Steve, Glad your sorted m8, Didn't remove the console so might try your way to remove the arm....mine was just so tight didn't want to bust anything over a blown bulb :unsure:. Must play again when next time I'm bored, I am sure RS will do a bulb :lol:. Regards Simon

As far as I know the bulb is soldered into the unit, mines bust I cannot remove the arm to replace the bulb either with an LED or a replacement bulb. The holder with the switch on just won't come off for me :), do a search there is another post on this subject. I just live with the blown bulb :). Cheers Simon

Biggest problem was breaking the joint :D, couldn't start using a lever as nowt to lever off :D. Welding isn't great but it didn't fall apart and wasn't to bad for first attempt after a quick look at 7.58 as I arrived at work....8.45 was ready to use :D. Don't think there is a high demand for this tool so I won't be able to quit work on live on the royalties :D. Anyway only posted really incase anyone else wants to make one after suffering the same problem, you can see the corrosion from the reaction of steel + alloy by the threads, good way to clean bearings out was to stuff with wire wool then use a smaller drill somewhere around 8mm and then as you enter the drill into the wire wool it causes the whole lot to spin and polish the inside really well. Hopefully my fix will last another 100k miles. Regards Simon

OK since no one knows how to remove the arms, I made a little extraction tool this morning to do the job. Worked like a charm and cracked the arm from the sline. Took half a can of gas to remove the nearside pivot as this was terribly seized. Cleaned and greased and re-assembled and now the wipers fly. Here's a picture of my home made tool http://www.mortal-souls.com/mauser/tool.jpg Simon

Please can someone explain how to remove the sodden wiper arms from the splines ?. Mine looked well seized and even after spraying releasing oil they won't budge....sob. Cannot lever up as the silly plastic cover will break. My wipers are stuttering at times and I wanted to remove and grease, maybe someone could explain these 3 bolts to me as I can see 1 either end holding the pivot arms to the bulk head and 1 holding the arms to the motor spline, but this topic mentions a third bolt holding the motor on ?, I can only see a 8mm single bolt holding what appears to be the entire mounting bracket for the wiper assembly, after taking this out it still feels solid. Anyway biggest problem is removing the arms, am I faced with making an extractor to pull these buggers off ?. Rather frustrated at the moment as this is the second time I have tackled this project and failed. Cheers Simon PS 2.3 1999 ghia :(

Please can someone explain how to remove the sodden wiper arms from the splines ?. Mine looked well seized and even after spraying releasing oil they won't budge....sob. Cannot lever up as the silly plastic cover will break. My wipers are stuttering at times and I wanted to remove and grease, maybe someone could explain these 3 bolts to me as I can see 1 either end holding the pivot arms to the bulk head and 1 holding the arms to the motor spline, but this topic mentions a third bolt holding the motor on ?, I can only see a 8mm single bolt holding what appears to be the entire mounting bracket for the wiper assembly, after taking this out it still feels solid. Anyway biggest problem is removing the arms, am I faced with making an extractor to pull these buggers off ?. Rather frustrated at the moment as this is the second time I have tackled this project and failed. Cheers Simon

lol Ok guys, will find some disks and get them changed :), any advice on changing them ?. Cheers Simon

When I checked the disks I checked the run out on the outer edge where I presume any distortion would be at its worst, are the disks likely to distort in the middle area and still leabe the outer section running true ?, doesn't seem possible to me but I guess you guys would know :). Very baffling I must say, just like the pads are moving on and off as I brake even lightly, however at speeds up to 50 there is no sign of it just above and @ low speeds, maybe in-between i cannot notice it :). Soz for dribbling on but just annoying. Cheers Simon

The peddle is not pulsing, its the car :angry:, its just like someone is pressing the peddle down and off again but only very lightly. Hard to explain but you can feel it doing it :P imagine your wife has dual controls and as you slow down she presses the brakes slightly harder causing the car to slow down slightly each time she pushes it... horrible thought wife + dual controlls. Cheers Simon

Well changed the pads and it does seem a bit better, steering wheel wobble is still present but not so bad, however I have also noticed another weird brake fault when I am going slow and braking lightly I can feel the brakes going on and off through the car. Its almost like someone is lightly pressing the peddle then releasing it every second or 2. Bit hard to describe but its there all the same. Clocked the disks on both sides and they are fine +/- 0.025mm as best i could measure. Any ideas as the low braking fault seems linked to my high speed steering wheel wobble. Cheers Simon

Thanks Seatkid, I can sleep easy now.... I will keep an eye on them and see if they improve over next week. Disks were in good condition apart from the normal rust flaking from the outer rim :). Cheers Simon

Thanks lads, Pads are made by Trupart, brakes just feel like fluid is leaking away when you press the peddle slowly...you get that sinking feeling lol, only way to get it hard is to pump it...sound rude. There is no air in them I am sure so bit baffled as to why they feel spongy will take care driving and hope they bed in a things return to normal i only do 3500 miles a year som might take a few weeks to bed in. Anyone know why manual says get dealer to check / top up brake fluid levels ?. Is it just because its hard to get to or is there some other techinical reason ?. As I posted before I used a syringe and pipe to top up. Cheers Simon

Hi guys, Followed instructions on changing front pads, bleed the nipples as I pushed the piston back being carefull and locked of whenever I stopped, however after a easy pad replacement I now have spongy brakes :). I have checked them both for air and wife pressing peddle and pipe on nipple slowly cracked the joint and made sure there was no air in them. I have also topped the top up bottle with a little help from a syring and the brake bleed pipe, seemed to do the trick, book says get dealer to check and top up ?, any ideas why ?. Anyway brakes are not terrible just not not good as before changing...ok they might bed in slightly but when I sit on the drive and press the brake peddle it goes a long way down before stopping ?, if I pump it several times it goes hard then goes soft again ?. Lot of ? marks I know but was hoping this would be easy job now its going tits up. Any ideas why I have poor spongy brakes after pad change :). Cheers Simon

I will probably get shouted out but I brought some new pads from Motormania :),

Hi guys, Had the drivers wheel off this afternoon and with a digital clock checked the run- out on the disks, it was cock on not much more than 0.05mm out and I would image the other side would be the same ?. Looking at the rim on the outside of the disk there was about 2mm of wear on the face, is that still within limits, there seems very little wear and the faces were very good condition. The pads are low showing about 2-3 mm of material left, would this possibly cause the wobble I am getting ?. If its not the pads or the disks then what else could it be please ?. I will change the pads but will be baffled if the woblle continues afterwards. Cheers Simon