Mauser

Thanks for all the help...all sorted thanks to me.

As topic really took the kids to school no problems, parked up and next time out she is running dog rough sounds like running on 3 but pulled the plugs and considering they have never been out they looked pretty healthy, cars done 135k @ idle the car is shaking and sounding just like 3 firing give her some gas and it does smooth out but you can feel a flat spot when you press the gas fast ?. Had a look under the search for a few pointers but nothing really jumped out, I guess it could be worth changing the plugs but hate spending dosh on something which doesn't resolve the problem. Can a blocked injector cause this problem and can it develope so quickly ?. 2.3 Petrol 1999 is the model. PS Finding the 2 plugs under the coils was interesting :rolleyes:.

So being a betting man would these fit ?. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:X:RTQ:GB:1123 Cannot for the life of me find my engine number which according to the logbook seems very short @ XT42743 Checked the TIS CD and that doesn't show me where it is...well it shows a picture but cannot see where it refers to lol.

Looking more into this they do 2 sizes 288 diameter and 300 and according to 1 company the 1999 Galaxy's have the 288 discs so @ least that helps a bit.

Well my front discs are well beyond their normal life so was looking to replace them, however there are loads floating about on ebay but some are for certain engine numbers only ?. Mine starts XT but cannot find any information as to which type to get based on this number...doh. Some are listed as fitting the Sharan and Alhambra as well as the Galaxy but don't want to order the wrong ones. Mine seem like standard 5 fixing 288 diameter discs ?. Anyone shed any light on which ones will fit my motor ?.

Not at all move it where ever it's best suited :). Contacted Ford today in Birmingham they were very helpful turns out the idle pulley is now metal as posted elsewhere on here now the tensioner pulley is still plastic ? and as we thought not a seperate item the idle is @

Top man Paul, hopefully your pulley will be the same as mine was :huh:, the plan is to hold back the tensioner and slip the pulley on to it's boss and then bolt on, not sure where the rest of mine went ?. Don't suppose anyone know's the part number for the idler pulley ?.

Hi it's the tensioner pulley ?.

Driving home tonight and battery light came on followed by lack of power steering, not easy to drive without it but got home and removed undertray and wheel to find the tensioner pulley has disintegrated, luckily the newly fitted belt seems fine. http://www.mortal-souls.com/mauser/galaxy/Sdc14797.jpg http://www.mortal-souls.com/mauser/galaxy/Sdc14798.jpg Fraud want over

Wouldn't say regular maybe once every 2 years as only do about 3k a year, she has just clocked up 130,000

Anyone know what might be causing my Galaxy to rattle ?, sounds like a tappet but are these not hydraulic ?, or could it be an injestor noise ?. Sometimes it goes but today it sounds terrible even when driving oil changed recently and new filter all Ford stuff, use the car for work so cannot afford for it to die on me + cannot afford to take it to a stealer to pay for them to look @ it :). Any thoughts on what might be going wrong, read somewhere about an engine flush to clean the lifters and make them seal ?.

Wow found my original post, well those who said they wouldn't touch it with a barge pole were wrong lol. She has been great gone through a few drop links and that's it in 5 years car has been great never missed a beat apart from wire breaking in auto transmission tunnel the other day :P. Hope your all well etc :(.

Didn't cost me a bean....just annoying tracking down these problems. Going to Llandudno so A55 all the way should at least engage cruise control once :lol:.

OK only taken me 11 months to sort but finally fixed my cruise control, ended up being broken wire and nothing to do with the control module, pump or hose; said all along it would be electrical :lol:. Least when we go to sunny Wales in August I can use it.

Hi Mike, I am sure the peddle switches are OK mind you I only have the brake 1 as mine is an Auto, tested this by driving along and then pressing the peddle just after engaging the CC, this has the effect of knocking the relay out so I am sure the switches are OK. TIS says the module is behing the stereo/climate unit which looks terrible to get to. before any vaccum is generated the pump would still have to start first, which still points me in the direction of an electrical issue. Don't think the pump would not start without any vaccum as it needs this first to maintain itself, if you get my drift. Once started I agree that any loss of vacuum would then cause the valve/relay inside the pump unit to open and then drop the vacuum and inturn stop controlling the vehicles throttle via the diaphragm by the peddle. Something is making the relay under the dash drop out ?, pump doesn't even have time to start brake switch is fine no blown bulbs. Most annoying but couldn't face taking car to bits to find the control module.... :lol:.

Hi since you guys have similar models to me any chance you could tell me if the relay under the dash clicks once when you turn the cruise control on or dies it sound like it clicks then drops out ?. Mine is borked I can turn it on by sliding the slector out and I get a click, but as soon as it springs back the same click appears again as if the unit is dis-engaging straight away. Pump powers up ok and draws a vaccum, pipe has been tested and repaired where perished as normal. Not sure what else to look @ apart from the cruise module which seems buried under the dash and to be honest not worth the digging. Any help would be aprreciated.

Just brought another new / second hand key fob of fleabay and took a couple of goes but eventually got it programmed OK, many thanks for the info mentioned above, least you don't charge like some do on fleabay.

After some testing this morning and attaching an LED to various places there is a supply going to the pump + supply when pulling the cruise control stalk outwards to turn on, however as soon as this is released the supply is lost and this corresponds with the relay which clicks on then off under the dash on the near side. Now next task is to find out what maintains the relay contact when the crusie is enabled or more to the point what disables it, it's definatly not the brake switch whilst holding the stalk out and getting my nice LED on soon as the brake is touched it drops the supply so least thats not the problem. Will be something silly when I find it, just a bit hard going finding stuff to test etc, hope it's not the CC module ?.

Didn't mention earlier but I did something similar I ran a length of pipe from the bump minus front indicator to the drivers seat and drove down the road, clicked the CC on relay on the dash went "click" but no vacuum whatsoever down the pipe.

what I mean Mike is that the pipe work certainly looks sound I have checked all under dash and replaced the section from battery white plastic to the pump, only part I cannot get to is the bit in the engine bay back of the bulkhead. I would say the way the vacuum unit pulled up when I ran the pump manually that it is 100% sound. Got to be electrical or a faulty relay within the pump. Any voltage reading would be appreciated, I have several meters knocking about. wiring colours are BU/WH = Blue & White BK = Black BN/RD = Brown & Red If anyone knows what this represent this also would help :angry:

Not that lucky Mike, just hot wired the pump and I get a great vaccum @ the vacuum unit under the dash, I really think it's electrical as mechanically now there is nothing else to test, if pedal switches were faulty (mechanically) then I would'nt achieve a vacuum @ the unit. Looking @ the pump there are 3 terminals 1 which goes to the negative side of the pump motor the middle 1 goes to what appears is either the NO or NC contact on the relay and the third connector I presume is the supply ?. I would imaging for fail safe if the foot switches (electrical) are pressed or the CC is turned off that the supply to the pump is lost and also by doing so the relay drops out and the vacuum is lost via the small link pipe running to the relay, would make sense but could do with knowing what supplies I should have when @ correct speed. Also to increase the speed via the stalk does the pump have a variable speed ability to increase it's rpm to achieve a greater vacuum and hence pull open the throttle valve more ?. Glad yours is sorted all the same :angry: Found this on the TIS CD http://www.mortal-souls.com/mauser/crusie.jpg shows the electrical power coming from the Speed Control Module but no idea where it is ?.

Hi Mike, sounds like your having same troubles as me, just stripped panels down from below fuse board as described on the TIS CD and removed the vacuum unit, sucking on this causes the linkage arm to the throttle to pull back. Din't help me resolve my problems all the hoses seem perfect under the dash, but it does vanish through the bulkhead and even lying under the car I am struggling to see where it comes out, higher up right @ the back I can find the other end of the white hard plastic pipe which goes through and underneath the battery, I have also replaced the line from the end of this pipe to the vacuum pump. Took the pump to bits as best you can, removing the plastic cover and powered up the pump and it ran fine, the relay does seem the dodgy bit ?, you mentioned yours clicking in & out well mine does the same, wouldn't have thought this would be the case, I agree as posted above about the electrical control dropping the earth to the relay as this dumping the vaccum if any present. Could really do with an indicator wired to the pump to see if the signal is there @ speed. Most annoying with out the CC but hopefully we can resolve this slight problem.

My cruise control has gone kaput, it was working fine then died due to the normal persihed pipe I soon repaired this fault and all was well, now it has gone again but even with new a new pipe it still won't engage. Have removed the pump and it works fine when i supply 12volts to the motor, when driving @ more than 30 and I pull the stick to out to turn the cruise on the relay on the near side behind the dash clicks then drops straight out again, don't know if it is supposed to do this or not, I would say the speed sensor is OK as it doesn't click @ lower speeds. Which brake pedal switch controls the vacuum line ?, my motor is an auto so might be different to the manual ones. Bit baffled why it does nothing, normally as long as it's on and when I press the end of the stick in it works fine, could do with it working soon as going to London and would be handy, there is a solonoid / relay device within the pump body which either holds the vaccum or drops it when energised, cannot test which way without driving @ 30 and looking under the bonnet . Any idea guys ?.

Ditto with crusie control on a 2.3, mine was fine pipe persihed once which I repaired, went again but even with new pipe it still won't engage. Have removed pump and it works fine when i supply 12volts to the motor, when driving @ more than 30 and I push the stick to "Set" then the relay clicks in then drops straight out again, don't know if it is supposed to do this or not, would say speed sensor is OK as doesn't click @ lower speeds. Which brake pedal switch controls the vacuum line ?, mines an auto so might be different to the manual ones. Bit baffled why it does nothing, normally as long as it's on and when I press the end of the stick in it works fine, could do with it working soon as going to London and would be handy, there is a solonoid / relay device within the pump body which either holds the vaccum or drops it when energised, cannot test which way without driving @ 30 and looking under the bonnet :D. Any idea guys ?.