dipsomaniac

-10 does cause havoc - if box is ok when warm i would just put it down to weather. transmission fluid levels are critical, 0.5L can make the difference between moving and not moving but i would have thought that would affect all gears and you would need an external leak to lose 0.5L of fluid. unless anyone on here can pin point the problem a autobox service is going to cost around

i just paid

i was quoted around

iirc the yellow one controls the fans

mine has been doing this for the last 5 years. doesn't quite go into the red but very close. these engines seem to get very hot as there is not much room for air to circulate - hence the need for 2 x fans. if the mechanic is saying that the gauge reading is faulty then it must be a sensor. there are three located on the side of the thermstat housing. i think that there is one for each of the fans and one for the gauge. if you fix it can you report back.

i've got the same problem. my pollen filter hadn't been fitted properly so i replaced it with a new one and the water still pours in when it rain. the pollen filter is easily enough to replace. you just need to remove the scuttle drain tray and slide the filter out from the left. you can find full instruction in the faq's section. the water is coming in from the sun roof drainage channel and into the car via the rubber seal that the passenger door closes onto. i have got some wire coming tomorrow and will try cleaning the channel.

the recent rain has created a nice swimming pool in the passenger footwell. i have isolated it to the sunroof (scuttle drains/windscreen ok). it is coming in through the rubber seal that the passenger door closes onto. anyone know how i can fix it?

ebay new

don't worry too much about the reversing lights as they are not an mot item. if in cheltenham take a trip to harry bucklands for the seat belts

sorry its not in faqs. its here http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...8&st=0&

dash out job. i have put off doing mine for the past 2 years but can't go through another jan/feb with more frost on the inside than on the outside of windscreen. you need to be 100% sure that it is the matrix before ripping out the dash. in the faq there is instruction with pics on how to remove the dash. good luck

had another go today and managed to remove it without dropping gearbox/subframe. it is very tight but is possible

finally got around to doing this today. n/s half shaft came out of gearbox ok but there is not enough space between the autobox and sub frame to remove shaft as the inner cv joint is larger than the gap between gearbox and sub frame. anyone got any ideas? can i drop the sub frame or remove the inner cv joing in situ? nothing is ever easy on this car.

if you have a mk1 you only have one coil pack. car can usually run ok on 5, its when it runs on 3 that it gets rough. you need to check the plugs and leads first if you think it is running on 5. you need a really big healthy spark. if you haven't got one chances are that it will be the coil pack. i paid approx

had my v6 for 5 years and have had the same problem. i have replaced all but one hose on the coolant system (due to a leak) but the needle still creeps up near the red when in traffic. the thermostat housing on a mk1 isn't easy to get to. it is located under the coil pack on the right side of the engine. you have to remove the coil pack, battery cowls and a few other small parts to get access. it took me 3 hours the first time but i have it down to under an hour now. you should be able to find instructions in the faq section

i would rule out a relay first as you have had problems with one in the past. if it still doesn't start you will need to read any fault codes. either some kind soul on here with vag-com that lives near you could help or you will need to get an independent garage (from

i have a intermittant knocking on the front of car which increases/decreases with wheel speed and am pretty sure it is the cv joints on near side. can anyone advise whether i should replace both sides and how difficult a job it is to do. i have seen the sticky for replacing the joints on a manual but don't know if it is anymore difficult on an auto.

it is the servo > inlet manifold vacuum pipe for anyone wondering

after 5 years i think i may have finally solved my coolant loss problem. for anyone with the same problem just replace: waterpump thermostat housing hose matrix > throttle body > block expansion cap radiator hose expansion tank > thermostat > autobox oh, and bypass matrix

a black plastic breather pipe just snapped as i was moving it out of the way when replacing another coolant hose. the pipe runs from the pedal area of the chasis to the r/h side of the head - just in front of the coilpack. it is a black plastic pipe approx 1.5 cms in diameter. does anyone know what this pipe does and whether i can just join another piece of rubber pipe to this pipe and connect it to the head?

just sold a focus diesel due to a suspected (99% sure) faulty fuel pump. the symptoms were rough running, lots of smoke and increased engine noise. had to sell the car as it wasn't financially viable to go any further as i was quoted

snapper - i replaced the thermostat and housing when trying to sort out the source of my coolant loss. my gauge is on the r when the car is moving. does your gauge move up when stuck in traffic?

as ford charge approx

are both fans working ok? the temp gauge on mine always goes near the red when stationary before the fans kick in and bring the temp down. these engines do appear to run very hot as there is little room for air to circulate