dipsomaniac

suppose only time will tell paul. offside anti-rollbar bush was an advisory on last mot. thought i should replace droplinks while at it and didn't want to spend a fortune as car is 15 years old and i only do < 4k per year. droplink prices are crazy and it is not always clear that spending £10 on a droplink is any better than spending £5

http://www.germanaut...o.uk/index.html don't know if anyone has used this company but i just bought some febi bilstein droplinks for my v6 from them and was very pleased with price (£22 pair incl del) and delivery time (3 days during christmas rush).

the haynes manual does not cover the vr6 engine but is still useful for other areas. i have some pdfs of engine manual. if you message me your email i can send you them

i need to remove battery tray to fix cruise control vacuum pipe. i understand that the autobox will drop if not supported. can i just support with bricks or will i need a trolley jack to do the job? also, has anyone got any views on whether the cheap drop links (2 for a tenner) are any worse than the ones from motor factors that cost £10 each? if the car wasn't so old i would probably go to the dealer but now it is not worth spending the extra.

water in the passenger footwell is usually always scuttle drains blocked (instruction are on this forum of how to clean) or sun roof either blocked channels or pipe becomes disconnected just behind roof lining under passenger sun visor

thanks viperclive

...........deteriorated on mot advisory. are they difficult to replace on 1997 v6?

thanks seatkid. already fixed big brown wire (assuming earth) which was split in two. two other wire had the insulation cracked but not broken. i taped those. am assuming what caused the earth wire to blow took out the window too

took 14 year old car for mot yesterday. i knew i needed a new tyre. rear nearside passenger electric window not working but not a problem as stuck up. when i picked car up and paid bill (£100.22 new tyre and one bulb) window was stuck down. was dark when i picked car up so left car on drive overnight with window down. rain wasn't forecast. looked at car this morning, took door apart but couldn't find anything obvious so went to the pub. didn't lock car. when i came out of pub window was up. still can't believe it. can anyone explain? garage denied all responsibility as window not part of mot

rear passenger window, sunroof, autobox display light and sun visor lights are not working. found a thick brown wire (am assuming an earth wire) blew apart going into rear passenger door (same window not working) and joined it back together but window still not working. fuses look ok. has anyone any ideas where to start or know which wire carries the power to the sunroof motor so i can test for 12v?

if mk1 and replacing n/s driveshalf you will need to remove sensor on side of autobox to gain clearance to remove shalf. you will then have to replace transmission fluid lost when the sensor is removed

thanks for your replies. i tend to live by the philosophy that if it ain't broke don't fix it but it now looks like i will have to give the whole system a good overhaul and it ain't looking pretty. just put car on laptop and abs wheel speed sensor code 00290 (rear left g46) comes up. anyone know if the left is from drivers position (nearside) or looking at car from front?

is there no chance of repairing the one you have? don't know if you have seen the thread in the faqs here: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=7338&st=15&p=82520entry82520 they were breaking a mk1 sharan in twigworth breaker, glos 2 weeks ago when i left my fuel cap on the roof and had to source another.

noticed a burning rubberish smell today when got out car to buy some chips. abs light is now staying on constantly after previously only being intermittant. red brake warning light is now intermittant. anyone have any ideas?

when i had my autobox reconditioned around 5 years ago it cost

i would have thought that it was highly unlikely that both fans need replacing. unless the fans are damaged i can't see why you would replace them. surely, the problem is with a sensor or power going to the fans

water flooding into my passenger footwell too. still haven't found the problem. when you find it can you let us know? you need to switch the cruise control to on (slider on stalk) before pressing set to activate cruise control. make sure you are doing more than 30mph too. if still not working it is common for vacuum hose to perish and leak air. the pump is behind the nearside front indicator. you will just need to cut out the perished piece and refit.

thanks jayton. just hope i have bought the correct new n/s driveshaft - part no. 7M0 407 271 MX -

has anyone got the vw part no. for the n/s drive shaft on a 1998 2.8 v6 automatic? two separate garages have now failed to diagnose the knocking on the front.

i am totally baffled as to how water is sitting in the bottom of the auto gear stick housing, especially as it is in the centre of car and is above the height of the passenger footwell.. scuttle drains appear to be clear and there is no obvious signs of water coming in. matrix is bypassed and i have poked 3m of curtain wire down the sun roof drain channels. anyone got any other ideas?

sounds like a classic case of needing some atf. was the level checked when gearbox was up to temp?

i would just check the level and top up if necessary. if that doesn't work you are probably going to have to plug it in to see if any fault codes are logged

had to get recovered the other day because i thought one of the front wheels was going to fall off due to a knocking on the front of the car which just got worse and worse over a distance of 2 miles. i replaced 3 cv joints mid oct and car has been driving ok up until now. can't see anything obvious wrong and took the car 100 metres up the road the other day and no knocking. the inner cv joint came from ebay (