dipsomaniac

remove one of the spark plug leads at the plug end - the most accessable one if you don't have the correct tool is the front L/h remove spark plug (or use a spare one) and insert into plug lead cap hold the lead with a suitable pair of insulated pliers so that the end of the spark plug is approx 2 inches from a metal part of car ask someone to turn over engine look for a healthly blue spark jumping from the plug to metal part

have you driven an auto?

have you got a good spark (will it jump 2 inches) at the plugs? If you have it must be fuel related. if not, as you have replaced the plugs, leads and coilpack it must be a sensor or relay. you need the fault codes read. haynes will probably not help if you have the v6 you need the manual from bentley publishing if you want to sort it yourself. i still mantain that the cheapest option now is to get a good mobile auto electrian to spend an hour of there time sorting the problem -

have i got the right part seatkid. it is a small cannister with pipe attached behind the maf. i thought it was some type of purge valve which recycles unburnt fuel.

evap has been noisy ever since i disturbed it a couple of weeks ago. i had this once before after the dealer has disturbed it. i took it back and they did something and it was ok. what did they do? as i can't now keep it quiet. anyone know how much they are?

i know that the local roads are in a bit of a state these days but i seem to be able to feel ever stone when driving. tyre pressures are set at the recommended 40 psi. there is no clunking or any other noises. the drop links have not been replaced as far as i am aware. would worn drop links cause these syptoms or is this normal?

i didn't think that the diagnostic socket took any power from the diagnostic tool. an escort i used to have had a 'keep alive' fuse which was connected to the lead providing the power to the diagnostic tool. i thought the only difference between the expensive version and the cheap version was the 'dongle' which tells the software it is registered and provides full functionality.

the maf code could have been logged if it has been disconnected at some point. you would notice a difference in performance if the maf wasn't doing its job properly. you can buy a lead for 15.00 off some auction site and download the free version of vag-com. it won't do everything that the full version will do but it will read gearbox and engine codes. apart from checking for fault codes, checking the fluid level and looking for any damaged wiring the autobox is probably best left to the experts.

I bought mine for

how did you get on dave

i would buy a cheap cable (

depends on where they source the compressor. ford quoted

should be approx

don't think the clip is relevant. you need to call out a good mobile auto electrician as the price of these parts are too expensive to play guessing games with.

when you say all other faults were sorted i am assuming that they cleared all codes took it for a long drive and only these two codes re-appeared??? it is a shame that they couldn't pinpoint the problem further but it is difficult as the throttle valve control unit is made up of several components and for

parkers guide is quoting 18-36mpg. i have only ever got a maximum of 26.

thanks Vanbursta, i appreciate your advice. my manual only covers the mk2 but i should imagine that most of the parts/fixings are the same. i am just waiting for a spare 3 days with dry weather before getting on with it. have been quoted

thanks vanbursta. the quickest time i have heard was 12 hours - that was a chap who works at my local auto aircon garage. one more question... do you have to discharge the gas in the aircon system?

need to replace mine at some point. autodata is quoting 6.5 hours - i think they may have taken that figure from the guinness book of records. when you say that 2 of the screws holding the heater to the bulkhead are inexcessable how did you get them out? can't afford to pay someone else to do it at the moment so any tips (eg. where to start) would be appreciated.

just looked up the compression tolerances for the v6 AAA engine - 10 - 13 bar. not an expert on pressure but used a calulator to convert to 130 - 170 psi.

you need to start by replacing the ht lead(s) arcing. you can buy them separately from ford (

have you identified which cylinder(s) are misfiring?

a huge slice of humble pie please supulchrave - it was the coilpack, colonel mustard in the study. for the record Unfortunately, i was thrown off the scent in the first couple of days. firstly, by a local mechanic who guaranteed 100% that it was not the coilpack. Secondly, by another forum who suggested that it could not be the coilpack with a misfire on cylinders 1 & 5 as they are triggered by 6 & 2. If you have the same symptoms and no RELEVANT fault codes are logged you need to first try to establish a really good (must jump at least an inch) spark at the plugs. if no spark or a poor spark you then need to rule out plugs and ht leads before trying to establish a lead (electric pulse) from the ecu to the coilpack with a multimeter. if there is a lead to the coilpack it is 99% certain to be coilpack. dealer wanted

cheers Alex - i am on the point of giving up at the moment and taking it to a garage. last time i had a misfire it cost me over

bigal - can you confirm the symptoms as i was under the impression that the car should still be driveable even with a faulty/disconnected maf.