Beyond Help?

I think there should be cable visible, just before the 'B' pillar. Can I ask why the belt need changed? It there any sign of friction damage to the old one?

HGVs have their treads re-cut following the tread pattern that is already on the tyre. Only tyres that are marked as being re-grooveable my be re-cut, they are designed for this when manufactured and have the tread-blocks wider at the base to stop them from moving too much when the tyre is new. When the tyre reaches the markers for re-cutting you then use a cutting tool to remove the excess tyre compound, your only opening up the tread that is already there down to the maximum cutting depth markers. Most HGV blow-outs are NOT because the tyre has been re-cut, but due to running the tyre under-inflated or side-wall damage from bad drivers 'kerbing' the tyres.

Your correct with the best tyres on the back. You can not steer the rear axle so you need tyres on the back that will provide the best grip. HGVs don't aquaplane as they are too heavy, it is not really a speed related issue. And the maximum speed limit for HGVs in the UK is 60MPH, most now are speed limited to 56MPH, however on a down hill section of motorway you can easily exceed that. Also blowouts on HGVs have more to do with re-capped tyres that are running under inflated, it is often difficult with truck tyrse to visually spot underinflation due to the stiff tyre-walls and the load being shared by other nearby wheels, often on the same hub. A local company I do some work for has over 100 trucks and trailers, they only use new Michelen tyres and have very few blow outs, less than 10 a year.

It just sounds like you have only an immobilizer, no alarm.

Probably. Put a window down, lock the door, give it a minute and reach in and open the door from the inside.

Does the LR td5 use a variable vane turbo?

Buy yourself a pressure bleeder and bleed all four corners until the clean fluid comes out. The Gunson's Eezi-Bleed is cheap and very effective. Make sure you partially deflate the tyre supplying the air though or you may pop the seals out.

Normally a wobble like that is down to the INNER CV joints, for some reason a lot of folks seem to think there are only outer ones.

It is simply not true to say cheaper tyres give worse mileage, some will give better mileage as they contain more carbon black. The more carbon black in the tyre the harder the rubber compound is and the better it will wear. So a cheap tyre will tend to have a large block pattern to make up for a poor contact patch design, but in order for the blocks not to be too flexible the rubber must be quite hard. Again, and as said before, this can cause some under-steer if your an enthusiastic driver. Under-steer: When the front of the car hits the fence Over-steer: When the back end of the car hits the fence Momentum: How far you end up in the field after going through the fence Torque: How far you drag the fence with you after you have hit it and carry on down the road Tyres are important, but more importantly is to buy tyres to suit your driving, or drive to suit your tyres. I drive a whole lot of different vehicles in a week and have no control over the tyres that are fitted, and I last had an accident over twenty years ago. And even that was not down to poor tyres, it was down to a poor decision on the part of a third party.

The tensioner does not go in the door. Can you explain what you mean?

There are various specifications for the alarm, the base is simply operated by a door being opened etc. Do you have bulges with a mesh in them on your 'B' pillers?

Don't blank it off or close it completely. You can reduce it withing certain parameters as the engine is designed to be programable for all countries although the exhast gas rules are different in many. About five years ago I reduced mine to 33768 (the bigger the number the less gas that is fed back into the manifold) and have no problems to report.

My 1988 Alhambra does. And when I turn the key. I think it can be turned on and off at the alarm ECU though if required by local laws.

A fiver says when he opens up the t'stat housing the t'stat will be missing!

Definitely not. You require 505.01 or better. 505.00 is old basic diesel oil. If you want cheap PD Oil then try phoning a local VW/Seat/Skoda dealer and ask for Quantum PD Oil (5l can). (This is Castrol Edge Oil as far as I can tell). I think it is probably Fuch's Titan, unless it has changed recently.

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...amp;#entry63453

Yep, do the easy checks first, but it sounds like a failed tripodic joint to me. Or a tyre out of shape.

It could be a split vacuum hose meaning no vacuum to adjust the vanes in the turbo, or a failed turbo vacuum servo. It could also be the throttle pedal failing.

I serviced a VW van the other week with an AFN in it. It was the 410,000 mile service! Original engine, but he gets through a clutch every 120,000 miles or so and he needed a new flywheel on his third clutch! The van was a bit tatty inside though, but outside was very clean and shiny, it was on an S plate if I recall correctly.

If you look around you can find a 3 year old diesel Sharan Sport for 10K. Mileage may be about 70 - 80k but if serviced on time that is nothing at all. Much much more car for your money than a new

I always cringe at insurance threads, there is so much to insurance than just who is cheapest. For example I have fully comp cover, protected NCD, business use, no excess and replacement hire car on a like for like basis. But for that I pay a whole

Hmmm. Well first you need to get it turning on the starter, check all the battery leads etc. Try using a jump lead to connect the battery positive to the positive terminal on the starter and see what happens.

If your ignition is suffering from damp DO NOT use WD40 on it unless it is a last resort. Dry it and use some CarPlan ignition sealer. It puts a thin highly insulating plastic waterproof coat onto it. I only do diesels now, but when I used to service petrol engined cars I used ignition sealer as a mater of course, preventative maintenance.

Yes, avoid second hand and cheap re-cons as there is no legal definition of 'reconditioned'. Only buy from a reputable parts retailer. Anything else is a pig-in-a-poke. Buy cheap and you will regret it.

As the engines are the same and the parts are the same, I don't see why not.