Rusty Nail

I know where you're coming from smedzz, but just remember, the bigger the doubt, the bigger the clout! :lol:

Hey stevejannicole, You had a light on the dash to say the C/C was on/working - you were lucky. If mine has a light, it certainly doesn't work, never has and prob never will. Oh well, at least my C/C works for now..... :lol:

Sorry I couldn't be of more help. I just know that if the mind is willing but the starter fails to do anything, but then sorts itself out, the only real tempremental bit is the alarm/immobiliser. I'm sure some techno-boffin on here will have the answer for you.. they usually do

Hi sniper and welcome. I think gregers just about sumed it up, this is a great site, use it and enjoy it. Cheers

Hi smedzz Sounds like it could be an immobiliser issue to me. Have a search on here to see if anyone else has had similar. Good luck

I take it you're not a big fan then? I was under the impression that prices were actually lower than the MKII equivilent, and I think it looks OK - if you squint, but the SMAX is better proportioned.

I have been looking at the 'FULLRN' tyres MO4 has been championing. The reviews look OK tp me and I am looking at getting a couple for the front in the next few weeks. I will be replacing a pair of AVON ZV3's which have managed 12k, just. I shall let all know what I think when I get them fitted.

No you don't need to upgrade your discs, but larger ones would look better as there is nothing worse than a great set of alloys with piddly little disc behind them. The question is, are the caliper mountings the same as on the MKII with 16" wheels? Also, do the discs and calpers have the same offset? There are quite a few things to look at if you wanted to upgrade, as you would need to change the the discs, calipers, pads, dust shields, hoses etc... Have a look and weigh it all up.

Hi adrianf I really don't have much of a clue regarding this one, but good luck with getting it sorted. :lol:

Hi Smedzz Have a look at the main inlet butterfly valve (where the throttle cable operates). Over time this usually gets coated with a sticky black oil type substance. This 'stickyness' can prevent the idle control motor from operating smoothly so giving an erratic idle. Get a can of injector/carb cleaner from Halfords or similar and clean the assembly using the spray and a cloth. This has worked for me on many cars in the past, so that is where I would start, and it's a cheap fix. Good luck,

Hi Bobski. I'm sure the specialists call is a 'Power Flush'. This is supposed to clear 'all' the old oil out as just draining alone has been known to empty only about half of all the oil as only the sump drains leaving any debris within the box, in the box. This is definately a job for the specialist. I hope it sorts things for you.

Definately drop link. It is probably best to change both at the same time as they don't cost much and after one goes, it won't be long before the other one follows. Also they only take about 10mins to change. Have fun.

Now now u2, i fwt tht leesy wz jst tryn 2 sey hi, so hi leesy and dont mind th rst ov us. For everybody else - Hi there leesy. Welcome to the forum. You will find this the best source of information and knowlege around. Use and enjoy.

36. No I wasn't looking at her, I was looking at that car ....... nice bumpers.....

Thanks MO4. Just in case anybody has a 2002 MKII 1.9Tdi 115, the MFFB is just in front of the battery, and is Ford Part No. 1112108. I paid

Hi Paul and welcome to what is possibly the best source of information and money saving help you can get. This forum rocks. :D

Hi JDF I made a wind back tool for my MkII as the usual clamps etc wern't man enough as the piston was a little sticky. As usual I didn't realise I needed anything until it was all stripped down and past the point of sensible re-assembly to enable me to drive to a garage or dealers to buy one. If in any doubt, get one or make one before hand. Good luck

I too have now fallen foul of the faulty fuse box. :D I had trouble this weekend after a day out ferrying the wife around the shops. We had visited at least eight shops, starting the car on each occasion. We covered quite a few miles - enough to keep the battery topped up (or so I thought), but as usual we had the heater, radio and DVD running most of the time. Come the last shop - Argos - upon trying to start the car the starter only just tried to turn before the battery died. I hobbled back into the shop and purchased thier high quality jump leads - I nearly died laughing when I saw them, but when needs must and all that. Note to self, put 800A leads back in the boot as they are of no help in garage - dough!!!! Anyway, I collared a guy in a Freelander and managed to jump start the ole Gal before the leads melted. I thanked the man and made a dash for home as I was evidently running off of what was left in the battery. I had no indicators, no sence from the dials, an array of flashing warning lights (ABS, Airbags, Handbrake etc) and beeping that made you want to hit something. I made it home - just, and put the battery on charge overnight. The next day I started the car - first time and checked the battery voltage - 12.4V, a bit low me thinks as I was expecting 13.8V plus. There didn't appear to be any much more coming from the back of the alternator, so I took it off and gave all the connections and brushes a clean. This helped things as I now had 13.4V at idle. Better but not perfect. Que Forum - hey presto - similar issues, great, I'm not alone. That is when I had a poke around and found the fuse box fault just as described (Fuse box is in front of the battery on 1.9 Tdi MkII) The top of the box had signs of burning and I had to force the top open as things had melted together. The alternator lead was burnt, the main 150A fuse had semi-dissintigrated and things just didn't look to great. I stripped the lead, fuse etc, and started the clear up. I re-fabricated the fuse (no shops open at 23:30) cleaned up all the terminals and crimp connecrions and re-connected. The battery was at 12.4V before, and 13.7V at idle, but the alternator was kicking ot 14.4V. I felt along the alternator lead and as you got near the fuse box, the lead got hotter and bl**dy hotter. Great - NOT I am now looking at getting a new Fuse Box, a new 150A Fuse and a new Alternator Lead. I shall update you all with costs and fitting times as soon as I know. Have faith all- you're not alone ........ :)

Hey gregers, you might need to get your peepers checked as I'm sure the date above is 23 Feb 2008 Never mind, means it is nearly Easter, thank god all the shops are full of Easter Eggs ;)

Unfortunately Stevie, you are best to get a new one and no they are not cheap. You wouldn't put second hand discs on you car, so why would you fit a second hand flywheel? From what I have seen it typically costs arounf

Come on guys and gals 92 reads, but only 10 votes????? I tend to agree with the poll though, red 'n' purple for me. momof4 - they send me loopy too, sorry was that kids or colours? :16: stevie m & chrissy - I like your style but I'm sure my teeth would come out first :16:

Thats what I though stevie m, thanks for your thoughts. Just seems a little coincidental to me that it started upon receipt of the car back from Frauds??????

That'll be 1 or 2 post per day - nay hour you mean gregers :16:

Hello there intelligent forum dwellers (and people like me) Can any of you help please? I have just had the ole' Galaxy serviced and MOT'd by Frauds and no mechanical issues were found once they had replaced the worn off-side track-rod end. I have, since this visit to Frauds, noticed a speed related final drive bearing type noise coming from the front end at speeds above 30mph. The noise appears to worsen on left hand lock but it is very difficult to ascertain from which side it is coming although I do tend to favour the off-side. I have had a search of the forum and the only possibilities I have come up with are :- 1) Outer CV's - I have just replaced the near-side and am waiting to fit the off-side 2) Half shaft bearing - The half shaft was replaced in Nov '07 2k miles ago 3) Wheel bearings - not looked at yet 4) Brake discs & pads - Am looking at changing as nearing the sensor wires but are only 2 years (24k Miles) old. Do any of you have any similar experiences or suggestions as to what it is most likely to be and where it may be coming from so as I can start looking there? I hope that you can help in some way and thank you in advance if you can Thank you for you time taken to read this post.

Well put 'neil wiles' :16: