mk2vr6

OMFG! yes its natural, your dropping a cog, flooring the throttle and dumping nearly 200 bhp through the front wheels, while trying to drag nearly 2 ton of metal down the road! its called torque steer and wheel spin, the little light on the dash is telling you not to drive like a muppet :blush: get the tyres replaced with something decent, throw out all the crap your carrying, like the rear seats that dont get used, and unhook that plastic shed off the back :16:

sounds like your breather valve is sticking?no such thing as an overflow valve! the only think stopping you overfilling your tank is the click off valve in the filler nozzle and the price of fuel other wise you would pump fuel all over the forcourt! if it was the return pipe it would pee out constantly when you fired up the engine! you could pull the inspection plate in the floor and take a look at the hoses and check for leaks?

climate control or old school controls? if old school with the old rotary knobs with the recirc button in the fan speed knob then its possible the switch is playing up or the connection leaking? the recirc switch flap is operated via the vacume off the engine, check the recirc flap/switch is working ok? if not? its not the end of the world and it can wait till the new year to get sorted http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/ls8AAOSw0vBUhN~Z/$_57.JPG

yes its possible! you may how ever find that you will need to either fold the rear seats down or remove them altogether to get it in the back though :D

wot? sounds like an interlink fault? cant remember fully how they work on the galaxy? but I think there is a switch on the brake pedal and on the shift lever? ? on my truck there is a cable linkage between the shift lever and brake pedal, you have to stomp on the pedal before you can shift gear! try moving the shifter lever back and forth while you turn the key? as for the display turning red????? probably need the codes reading? and thats why I love my JEEP :) flick the ignition key a few times and all the fault codes pop up on the dash display :) job done

you mean this bit? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Galaxy-Vw-Sharan-Fan-Motor-Control-/151270227082?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AFord%7CModel%3AGalaxy&hash=item2338687c8a or this bit? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-MK1-FORD-GALAXY-1-9TDI-DIESEL-RADIATOR-FAN-RESISTOR-FAN-CONTROL-FUSE-RELAY-/181375795088?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a3ad6ff90

IIRC? it's one of the sensors in the stat housing its either blue, yellow or black? there's a couple of sensors located in there! http://www.gsfcarparts.com/parts/cooling-heating/cooling-system/coolant-temperature-sensor

first off you have to understand how the bulb warning light system works, it will remain on till it see's the brake light bulbs, until you hit the brake pedal it will stay on to signal a failed bulb/s! now if its going off and you say the brake lights dont work then start at the brake light switch and see if its ok? try resetting it and then start pulling the tail gate/rear lights apart to see where the voltage isnt going?

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there is a shed load of pipes on a VR6! but your probably looking at the thermostat housing and sensor housing? its a plastic section that is known to crack and leak! try this link... for the 12v VR6 http://www.gti-vr6.net/library/engine/repl_VR6_therm_housing.html or http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5773563-UroTuning-com-Ultimate-Thermostat-Housing-Kit-Mk3-VR6-79-99 or a 24V housing... usa after market http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--VR6_24v/Engine/ES4196/ try gfs or euro carparts for one a little more local :)

either will do, you can mix it up a bit but dont over do it! if you doing a full oil change? unless your going to strip the block down and wipe up every last drop of remaining oil? there's no way you wont mix them up, just dont over do it as you'll be reducing the quality of the higher spec/costing fully synth oil with out looking the specs up IIRC the only real difference if the fully bit and the fact that the 5w will remain thinner at lower temps, which isnt really a problem here in the uk

depends? if your car has been running on 5w40 then go for it, if not try 10w40, but then if you topping up and sticking 5w40 into mineral oil, then you may have issues! the two dont mix well! something about polysomthings not reacting too well with the old dino oil!

central locking relay for rear hatch and fuel flap lock

easy enough job, you'll need the motors, the trim panels, the switches for the dash some crimps and a length of cable..... the hardest bit will be finding the global closure feed to shut them via the remote locking, best option is to hit a breakers and see if you can get the switches and the loom plugged into them :ninja: take your side cutters, then its just a case of running a feed to the switches via your new offcut of loom and running a pair back to the motors, you wont need the plugs for these as you can use spade connectors for the hook up have fun :)

bin the 6006 and drop a 6000 in, 6006 are prone to failure and have no aux input, the 6000 unit has a mute connection unlike the 6006 and iirc should just be straight swap