Ivor_E_Tower

Agreed - if it's not the glow plugs, it's the circuit that activates them. Probably the relay or whatever thermostatic device decides that they need to be activated. If the engine runs OK once started, and re-starts once hot, it has to be a glow-plug related fault. Churning the starter to get a cold engine to go also strongly suggests a glow-plug related fault.

Sorry to hear that it is taking you so long to recover from what appeared to be minor injuries. Guess if one of the rear seats doesn't fit any more that the poor Gal's floorpan must be damaged, which would make it a write-off. I have to say particularly when you see the Euro-NCAP results, that I'm amazed that we can now expect to walk away from a 60kph crash. Personally I would have expected that if I had a crash at that speed, I would be seriously injured or die. So it's good to know that vehicle design has improved so much. How did the Golf occupants fare? Do you know what injuries, if any, were sustained? I hope they were OK, it's never nice for anyone to get injured just because they made a mistake when driving. Take care, Nik. Ivor

Russ- what are the symptoms? Does the engine appear to be turning over at the same speed as it always used to, or does it sound as if the starter is struggling to turn it over? Are you still on the original battery? Do you keep the key turned for 30 seconds or so, or do you release it and have to have several long attempts to get it started?

How are your ears now? Feeling better yet? I have to say that the Gal doesn't look that badly damaged, considering what hit it (is it repairable?) - better than the Golf which seemed to have lost at least one of its front wheels. Think I'll definitely stick to driving "substantial" vehicles from now.

Looking for new tyres too, or going to re-use your existing? Wheelnut spacing (pcd) and number of holes is critical. If retaining your tyres, rim width and wheel diameter are critical. Don't forget to coat the bolts with copperease or equivalent when re-fitting if you don't want them to stick, and a set of locking bolts may be advisable too. Let us know what you end up getting, please.

I suspect that "no flash" when locking means that the alarm is not being set - have you checked that the tailgate and bonnet are both properly closed? My parents had this type of problem on their car (not a Galaxy) a couple of years ago - turned out that only one of the bonnet catches had "caught" the bonnet after dad lifted it to check the oil. Opening it again then closing it properly re-started the correct series of flashes for locking and unlocking. Can you trigger the alarm when your Gal is locked - that would be a good test to start the diagnostics if the tailgate and bonnet are both OK.

Genuine Ford touch-up sticks are cheaper than Halfords, got my Ford 2-part metallic plus lacquer for about

Don't slate scotchloks - they aren't that bad. Not long after they became popular, one of the motoring mags (since deceased) did a test on different wiring joints, and the scotchloks came out pretty well at the top of the list. I've used them before for fitting radios, boot lights etc and rear fog lamps on older vehicles and never had a problem. Don't think I'd use them in high-power applications though.

Seat SX model comes with the fridge fitted in place of one of the seats, so I suspect that it's the normal model with all seat anchoring points and the seventh belt in the roof. I've even seen one advertised by a dealer offering the 7th seat as part of the package so you can pick and choose from 7 seats or 6 plus the fridge.

Look at your V5 (ownership document) - it should be on there. If not, Ford's technical helpline or a dealer should be able to give it to you from the chassis/VIN number.

Also glad to hear that you are OK. Take care and expect the unexpected.

Gave mine a good clean this afternoon inside and out, and can confirm that the rear trim panel will have to come off to replace the entire clip assembly.

Read something 2 days ago that said you have to undo the bleed nipple to push the piston back if the vehicle has ABS, due to "blockage" in brake pipe caused by ABS valves. As almost all Gals have ABS, this is almost a certainty. Also as has been pointed out, ensure that handbrake is off! Can't really be a necessity to rotate piston to fit new pads, otherwise when releasing the pedal after normal braking, the piston would need to rotate for the pads to clear the discs???

Pretty sure that I've seen a few 6-seaters that do not have the extra floor latches to take the seventh seat. As to the seatbelt, I also seem to remember that it wasn't fitted. You will need to visually check any potential purchase.

I think that the "proper" dual aircon will allow you to set the front and rear temperatures truly independently, but the standard system suffers from the "feature" that you describe.

Try your local motor factors for a possible cheaper tool. ISTR that some early Sharans had the tool fixed somewhere under the bonnet - near one of the hinges? May be worth a trip to a scrappies?

Something's not right - jammed/broken cable adjuster? What happens if you switch the aircon on then also adjust the temperature dial? Can you then get the air temp to vary?

Shouldn't be any problem with disconnecting the battery. I just hope that we're not looking at another dead MAF here......

..and for those who like winding people up! I wasn't going to mention the oil spec. Wonder if they over-filled it too......

10,000 mile service done before I bought the car, 20,000 mile cost about

I'll be most surprised if they are under

That's not a service, it's just an oil change! 30 quid labour - about 25 minutes' worth.

Right - had a quick look after work just as it was getting dark. Should be able to remove shround without removing steering wheel. If you turn the wheel round, you will see 2 fixing screws on the end surface of the shrouds, that are usually hidden by the wheel boss when in the "normal upright" position. By rotating the wheel (NB may need to lift front wheels off ground or park on gravel etc, or start engine to turn wheel as otherwise it's very heavy to move when stationary and engine off) it is possible to undo these screws. Didn't manage to see if they are torx or "normal" cross-heads. Also didn't notice any other fixings at the lower end of the shroud, but it was dark by then. May have another look tomorrow morning if it's got light before I get to work.

...and a stone chip would have to be hellishly big to get through the first layer of laminate and damage the elements. If it's not working properly, it jolly well ought to be covered by warranty. Don't Ford have any "wandering" warranty claims staff who visit your local dealership every few weeks, and if so you should make an appointment to see them when they are next there.

Your go-faster stripes actually slow the car down as it's more weight to carry!