johnswlondon

(above)fear not,the sender which gives the negine temp readout to the dash is not the same sensor that supplies info to the ecu.if the ecu thinks the engine is running cold due to a faulty sensor it would indeed supply a richer air fuel ratio and reduce fuel consumption rather than supply what used to be called by ford`lean burn`technology

im assuming you mean the air filter case?yes? it may be alot easier and cheaper to substitute the original for a more free flow conical design,eg k and n used to do them....shows my age!

ok,i ll stick my neck out (hey,somebody has to!)and say it hasnt been deactivated. the reason i say this is that i think it is contrary to eec law to permanently disable safety equipment which comes as standard.in other words,if it is not switchable it cannot be disabled,and i think disabling via the ecu does not count as switchable.the porsche boxster has similar problems(its a 2 seater)and that is not switchable and the workaround is removing a fuse. personally,i think the front seat is totally unsuitable for carrying a child

the boot latch operates electrically,so if the wiring loom is faulty or the battery dead you cant get into the boot,or can you..... ok,what you need to do is make 2 cuts 4 inches apart (and 3 inches in length)immediately above the boot latch mechanism in the rear boot panel using a stanley knife(which is made of chipboard and covered in pvc.break the panel to join up the 2 cuts and peel the chipboard away from pvc,leaving the pvc intact(like a flap to conceal the hole when the boot is closed. if you look in the hole you will see the solenoid which electrically opens the boot latch through the hole.on the right hand side of the solenoid is the white clip and actuator pin which moves into the solenoid and compresses the rubber bellows.push the pin in towards the solenoid(compressing the bellows)while gently pushing the hatch open. without ven loooking you will b able to slide the pin and open the boot after a couple of tries. hey presto,emergency boot opening!

this is intriguing because the belt itself is the same for the 2.0 and 2.3 engines see here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-Galaxy-2-0-2-3-...VQQcmdZViewItem it might be worth checking whether the tensioner is also the same for both,here is the tensioner for the 2.0 and 2.3,or if they can supply the tensioner for the 2.3,here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-GALAXY-2-0-PETR...1QQcmdZViewItem

i suspect you are getting the stop sign not because it is telling you the engine is overheating but because the sensor is misreading that there isnt enough coolant

think big bills

they often do this,it isnt a fault as long as the needle has actually moved to the very lowest part of `norm` band,in fact it shows your engine is running well.i am assuming your heater is working though,else its the thermostat

when the starter motor starts squealing you `could` grease the shaft and reassemble.##but i wouldnt. 1.the bolts are very inaccessible 2.if a piece breaks off the shaft of the starter motor it could wrech the flywheel teeth 3.reconditioned starter motors can be bought for 75 pounds non exchange from an ebay shop,which i will give you the link to provided you are all extremely grateful 4.the regrease technique cant be done where the tip of the shaft is worn which is usual(the tip should have a 45 degree angle on each fin tip) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/S266-Ford-Galaxy-2-0...1QQcmdZViewItem this fits the 2.0 and 2.3 16valve(thats the dohc unit)

are you sure the problem is the flywheel and not the crankshaft position sensor?a lot cheaper to fix!

ok,heres the brake caliper rewind tool you are supposed to use.if you just squeezed the old pads on,the abs thought the brakes were locking hence he abs cutting in http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-Mondeo-Galaxy-R...1QQcmdZViewItem

only get this model if you are going to get it properly serviced.it has so much power going through the chain that they stetch very quickly.

just to point out you pay more at ford but their work comes with a warranty.this is one job that must be done right

when you change the pads on abs eqipped cars dont you need a brake winding tool and to open up the bleed screws at the same time?

also try using a thicker viscosity oil,this sometimews stops the oil pressure light blinking on on old cars.if your car is high mileage then expect problems soon

failing to change the oil at the correct mileage will accelerate chain wear,if the oil has been regularly changed you should be ok

also check the battery connections,remove and clean them where they contact the battery posts.a bad earth can cause all sorts of problems

if it only did it with the car fully loaded it sounds more like the suspension protesting,assuming the upchange/downchange was at the correct speed

i have never bothered checking the oil level in a manual gearbox and i dont think its necessary.with an automatic,of course,its essentail

if you have a state of the art machine dripping with every conceivable extra,code readers are a very handy device at saving a lot of time.unless you have a specific fault eg abs or emissions,these code readers are of far more limited practical use

even if you have the wiring diagram i would personally not try adding electrical extras.the galaxy is littered with electrical faults to start with,and adding further electrics may compound the problem.i will be surprised if the sensors needed for the electronic temperature control are present ie its a different loom

if the coolant level isnt dropping dont waste money taking to be investigated.when the engine is hot the water rises up the expansion tank and then overflows out a tube through the engine compartment(so the level still reads max rather than blowing the expansion tank seals).you are smelling this escaping fluid,and the fan will draw it to the back of the cabin

sorry to hear this,i know the feeling exactly!i know its all too easy for me to be wise afterthe event,but substitution can work better than dismantling all at once

the ecu for the cnetrallocking is under the passenger seat,slide the seat forward for access.lift the lid off altogether and checkfor signs of water in the `basin`! this is a very common fault,and can be checked very quickly. my solution,which you wont find elsewhere,is to remove the front plastic wheelarch liners altogether,remove the rubber flaps which are supposed to drain windscreen water on either side of the windscreen ,and remove the plastic grills whch the flaps are attached to-and dont put them back.problem solved failing this,i agree with the broken wire in the door idea

if the battery is disconnected for any reason ,the engine will not respond properly for 5 to 10 mles until the ecu has relearned the engine characteristics(see handbook)