BrianH

You might find some spray grease to give a slightly longer lasting fix as it will stay there for longer than WD40?

A Small gap is normal. As the doughnut squashes down gap gets larger.

You will need the strut out if your looking to change the bearing ontop of it as you need to compress the spring to remove the bearing. If your only changing the doughnut you can get that out with just the top retainer off, drop the wheel down, manouvre the sturt around and you can get the doughnut off the strut, push it up into the hole the sturt normally sits in and then move the sturt out of the way to allow removal of the doughnut, then reverse process to get it back in (sounds more difficult than in actually is).

Looks like a seized bearing to me. For what its worth you can get the nut to come off a lot easier with an impact wrench and a long extension coupled with a universal joint. I've had some really rusty looking ones come out a lot easier than I'd feared. The bearing sits on top of the strut with the plate around the shaft below that (the hole should be the size of the unthreaded section of the shaft, it is held in place by the spring tension. Did find the top plate had wear around the hole in the centre when we got mine apart. You will need the strut out to swap the bearing. Example doughnut and bearing https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152582234699 Top plate https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393511960660 If the doughnut has failed, you will see a large gap between the cap and body (from the top under the scuttle once the surfboard bit is removed from the car) but if your in that far I'd replace it anyway.

Forscan will allow additional key programming, but you need a PATS key that works to start with. Your symptoms sound like relay 30 to me - if your handy with a soldering iron then clean up and resolder the joints on the pcb will usually fix it. Usual tell take sign will be that the led on the door will flash rapidly when trying to start (indicating immobilser fault, which is usually relay 30 related). I'd suggest not key related since you've tried two that did work? Flat battery won't effect the PATS programming (needed to start the car) but may lose remote locking sync (whch you resync by a combination of door lock turns and pressing buttons on the fob doesn't need software to do it) A sharp smack on the fusebox or slamming the drivers door can temporally make it work again, if that does do anything, that would confirm relay 30 to be likely. I've had mine cut out whilst driving when relay 30 failed and then fail to crank afterwards. Also the fuse at the bottom righthand side of the fusebox will cause a failure to crank or run (its iginition switched so may be one that someone has used for a dashcam feed etc - if this is the case, find another fuse to use for that purpose!) Other thing worth checking is that the battery box hasn't started melting (the one near the front of the car attached to a short cable running directly to the battery with 5 high current fuse links inside it). I don't think the starter itself runs through that fusebox but other items do including the alternator output, this might be the cause of your dead battery. You also might have disturbed it whilst swapping batterys about and if it had already melted that may have finished it off. They are a known problem with the mk2 due to the poor crimp on the wire.

Does it have an EGR cooler? I don't know the MK3 but they are known for being problematic on other vehicles. I take it you can't find where the coolant is leaking but can see the fluid level dropping? Likely this indicates its leaking via an EGR cooler and going through the engine.

The Galaxy mk1/mk2 will speak to VCDS - as said above if its a diesel then more so than the petrol ones as said above. The Sharan/Alhambara in diesel form is near identical to the Galaxy (the PATS bits are different but thats not relelvent to your issue as thats the immobiliser functions), Petrol less so but the airbag between all are versions the only cheap option I know of is VCDS and the above cable should be fine for that. Further info on VCDS here in relation to the Galaxy https://www.bigcarclub.com/ford-galaxy-common-faults-and-problems/vagcom-vcds-lite-connection-problems/ Link on Ross-tech here listing the galaxy http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ford_Galaxy_(7M)&redirect=no You need to download the lite version of the software from here https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/ I can't suggest a lot else, but you should be fine with that, its basically the same vehicle, built out of the same plant just depends what spec it was built to as to how much of it may or may not be Ford. I did have to reset the airbag on my MK1 due to failed clock spring and used VCDS and a similar cheap cable to do so. I've used the same cable on the mk2 to fix issues with dodgy parking sensors and work out what the climate control module was complaining about. The same MK2 will speak to forscan for PATS functions and engine but very little else can be accessed via Forscan, VCDS will do most of the other bits you can access.

This probabbly worth a look - Not sure what side of the car it would be on with a LHD vehicle, but its basically a bunch of wires twisted together thats prone to problems https://www.bigcarclub.com/ford-galaxy-common-faults-and-problems/splice-joint-32/

Once the airbag light comes on, you need to reset it using VCDS or other diagnostics. it will not self clear. The same software will tell you why its on, you really don't have much option there. The good news is, if you have a laptop to run it on, VCDS can be had for the cost of a cheap cable such as https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374085426022 You then download VCDS lite and have diagnostics access to lots of things on the vehicle. Yours looks to be a petrol by the rev counter? If its the V6 (2.8) it will also speak to the engine, if its a 4 cylinder (2.0 or 2.3) then you need normal OBD software for that, but not for your specific issue. If its a diesel it will work with VCDS anyway regardless of being a Ford or VW/Seat badged model.

its going into limp mode for some reason, Your best bet would be to get hold of a suitable lead like this one for example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363701236361 And use VCDS lite to do a code scan (Can be obtained from Ross-tech website, Lite is the free version). Then search on here or the other forum for the codes it returns and hopefully it will allow you to narrow it down better. Otherwise your looking at checking the vacuum pipework etc to see if you can find anything wrong or that doesn't move as far as it should do.

As said in the other post, brown is shown as ground upto 2003 (I've no later diagrams to say otherwise). Check it for continuity between brown and the car body, If it isn't connected, then you have located problem, feed ground to it with it reconnected and you should get the door open, then fix the break in the wire.

Broken wires more likely - you could have lost the ground/earth feed rather than the 12v feed which would mean feeding 12v up the right wire still won't work. Your really down to identifing which wires are needed and try feeding power to both. The limited info on TIS suggests a brown wire might be the ground. You should see connection between that and the body of the car. If you don't thats where your issue is. Of course, it may be a stuffed locked motor as well. In which case your best bet is start by obtaining a replacement for it before hacking into it to get the door open. You should find if its the ground connection, that if you restore that even temporally, then try to operate the locks that it unlocks. You can then repair it properly (as likely area of breakage is in the door gaiter which you can't get to until the door is open).

You don't say what year of vehicle this is, if its a pre 2006 galaxy which I'd suspect it is, then check all the door wires where they run through the rubber boots near the hinges.

It would be DC you require, thats whats available in the car

Mk1 is all prior to the year 2000 - these will have the indicators on the front as a seperate piece rather than intergrated into the headlight MK2 is 2000-2006 on the Ford models (2010 on the Alhambara/Sharan only) These are quite similar to the mk1 but some differences (front Indicators in the headlights, dashboard around the stereo is different, rear tailgate doesn't have the full width reflector and some other tweaks) Both mk1 and mk2 have a flat rear floor with removable rear seats MK3 is after 2006 - there is also a mk4 but don't think this forum has a section for that. MK3 as far as I'm aware you can't remove the seats from the back like you could in the earlier models, and has no VW/Seat design input, unlike the earlier models. Pics of the front end are available on the other forum > https://www.fordmpv.com/ if your still struggling. The photos across the top are MK1/MK2/Seat MK2/B-max/Tiguan/Touran/MK3 S-max/etc if that helps.

The rain sensing module is probabbly the culprit for the wiper speed. My guess would say it hasn't been plugged back in properly. It will be fitted somewhere on the windscreen, At a guess in the rear view mirror housing. I'd suggest you need to follow up with the company that fitted the windscreen. You can't clear faults with disconnection of the battery, they typically will clear once you have fixed them and run a clear from the code reader. I'd guess he has done that and whats above is left. The other errors you may have to look at after trying to sort the rain sensing module errors, but I'd start with that since you know its been played around with to replace the windscreen.

You might find the fusebox in the engine bay (the one near the battery) to be at fault, they melt due to issues with the wires. Can involve replacing the metal tags at the end of the cables and soldering them to fix properly to remedy, as well as replacement of the fusebox if its that. Failing that, remove the cluster and check the connections on the back, though I think thats unlikely to be the issue. Its been seen before and im fairly sure the engine bay fusebox is the culprit for the fault you have. You may find it useful to search here or over on https://www.fordmpv.com/ if you don't get any luck with the fusebox.

Have another look round the door wiring, Its a Galaxy so there will be damage to the wires there somewhere. Remember to include the boot/tailgate drivers side gaiter as those wires are the most likely to break (and you can trigger the locking from the boot lock with the key - if this doesn't unlock the doors when you use the key, something is up with that end of the car most likely). Note that the connectors in the door pillars are made up of a few smaller connectors pushed into the larger housing, and those smaller blocks can not be inserted properly and cause issues as well. I don't think there is any relays involved in the locking. The motors can fail and cause issues, but that can usually be isolated to which door is behaving differently to the rest (locking from inside the car using the handles usually locates the problem door if thats where the issue is)

This might help, though not clear if they have it in stock https://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/ford/ford-1233838-adaptor/ Otherwise your down to taking photos of the part and contacting breakers - ebay listings can work for that, though some are a lot better than others for that.

you might find the parts list available here > http://catcar.info/en/ To help identify the part. Looks a bit like an engine mount thats got oil spilt on it to me, but bit hard to say for sure with the photo and no idea what engine/vehicle your dealing with there?

You've seen the answer on the other site for all except the way the shock absorber goes. You want the wider bit at the top, if its the other way round, it will allow debris to collect inside it. Your photo looks correct to me.

Maybe these on Ebay Flywheel https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/249648842 Clutch https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233882681501 Would obviously point you towards the seller to confirm they are suitable before purchase. Also with the flywheel you may wish to confirm its not previously been converted to a solid flywheel if its had a clutch previously?

This might help > Taken from https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=70444 If the Electronic Parking Brake is not functioning it can be released manually. ! Operate the emergency release only if the vehicle is secured against rolling away. Open the upper level of the centre console and then raise the second level of the console. Hook up the floor of the centre console with a screw driver. Unclip the Release ?T? handle from its resting place on the floor of the vehicle. Pull the ?T? handle upwards until a noise is heard. The parking brake is now released.

If i remember correctly this can be down to needing a shim in the gearbox somewhere, don't have the details to hand to give further info, but you should be able to find info on here. Would help to confirm what year and engine the Galaxy/Sharan/Alhambara your dealing with though. The other thing that could be a problem is the selector, again would help to confirm what your dealing with though.

You can remove the handle quite easily in most cases. You need to open the door first, locate the single bolt that goes into the end of the handle and remove it (its a Torx bolt and you can see it looking at the edge of the door when its open). Then pulling the outer handle towards the hinge end of the door to release it (might need the key to get it to release), pull it outwards then the other way to finish extracting it. At some point in that process, you need the key to release it though. I think you could probabbly force it if you were to replace the paddle afterwards The only time that doesn't seem to work, is if the paddle on the back has broken and got jammed in place. In which case you need to remove the main catch to get it to drop out of the way or fiddle about with it to move it (the key barrel bit blocks you removing it otherwise, theres a lug on the back that needs the key in the unlock position to move out of the way). You might be able to do this without removing the door card using a suitable screwdriver to move the catch out of the way. Otherwise you need to remove the door card to gain access.