Have I Bought A Dudd?

[seatkid]

Spoke too soon. Glow Plug light now flashing again so ran test, got same results as above AND this one too now

 

Address 01: Engine Labels: 028-906-021-AHU.LBL

Controller: 028 906 021 HB

Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G00SG 1907

Coding: 00002

Shop #: WSC 00020

1 Fault Found:

00542 - Needle lift Sensor (G80)

27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Readiness: N/A

 

Will investigate what that means. Hopefully it is the misfiring/cutting problem I am getting. Thanks all.:)

Check the wiring to No 3 Injector - the needle lift sensor is part of No 3 injector. This sensor controls injection timing and problems here will cause limp mode at the very least.

[alan_131]

Sorry - missed your last post - I'd already started my reply before you posted but got interrupted (my partner's ill atm, and having adverse reaction to antibiotics, ho hum. All downhill once you hit 40...). The forum post you mentioned isn't actually the one I was referring to in post 20, but much the same. Seatkid's succinct post says it all really... If you have a multimeter, I think the sensor should have a resistance of between 80-120ohms at the plug. Checked mine just now, 109. With my meter, can't detect any difference in this with the engine running - on any setting - but probably cause the meter is averaging or the sensor needs 12v to operate. For me, vcds doesn't flag the implausible signal when I plug/unplug, just the open circuit etc. You can hear quite a difference in engine note, but the mechanical timing is out on mine (Main dealer fitted new cambelt about 2000 miles ago, just before I got it. Maybe belt stretch (I'm feeling charitable today.) Either way, it runs - but as I said before, could be ecu thinks implausible worse than broken, or maybe you need to leave it longer or be driving it. I found an old post elsewhere that said running with it disconnected just caused a bit coarse running and slightly worse mpg, but even if that applies to our cars I wouldn't want to try it for long.

 

For the immobilizer, as far as I can tell, logs the same basic code with a missing chip as an unauthorised one. So if you have a key with a faulty, unregistered, or missing chip, you still get the basic error message. There may be more detail available somewhere, as the led on the door panel can tell the difference - if you wait a minute, it flashes the code on the door led and turns on the eml. A key with a missing chip seems not to work the starter, a duff chip the car starts and stops at once. I've not tried adding a key to the immobilizer but I'm wondering if at some point somebody has tried and failed and that's your other code but maybe not. For what it's worth, not much, to check weak signal, I wrapped the key in foil. I found the larger (remote c/l) needed more layers to block the signal than the flat key, but the immob still knew they were there even though it couldn't read them properly. Once the car is started, removing the chip doesn't seem to affect it - but I havn't done an extended test, and as i had immob codes when I checked after mine stopped, it seems a bit of a coincidence.... Anyway, if you have both keys and it happens less with the bigger one could be a clue...

 

A couple of quick questions I should have asked before, if you havn't solved the problem already..

 

Is this a manual?

 

Does the engine acually cut out completely, or just drop to idle? (I know, you'd have said idle if you meant idle)

What's happening to the rev-counter when this happens?

 

Anything else affected whilst it's happening (if you have time to notice).

 

You mentioned it happens when you accelerate - though this is stressing the engine and might be a trigger, I wonder if it's as simple as you accelerate, engine twists a bit, wiring etc...

 

Hope all this is unneccessary and you've cracked it, but if not, good luck...

[Legendaryjim]

Update of sorts. Havenet had time to do and fault tracing yet but I have been trying to make it do the "misfire" type thing and have concluded that it definitley happens certainly, more, when you are putting your foot down. You can almost feel the engine retarding when it is supposed to be accelerating, as if its holding back. This happens pretty much all the time when you accelerate but it doesnt always misfire. But sometimes it accelerates reasonably smoothly. Will try and test over the weekend. Thank you guys, especially alan :)

[alan_131]

Thanks for the kind words - really I'm only parroting what others have discovered and posted before, here and elsewhere.

 

From your last post, I'm wondering if, though the lift sensor is definitely in there because of the faults, and could well be the cause of all ills in this direction, if you might also have another issue (bet that's just what you wanted to hear). If you have problems without dtcs being logged, seems to me that these could (though often not) be down to events which the car thinks are user-initiated but not, if you see what I mean.

 

Engine management on these cuts fuel when you brake; there are two switches on the pedal that sometimes need resetting or replacing. A fault here - or on the clutch switch) is also a common cause of cruise control not working (expect you can see where I'm going with this..). In vagcom under cruise-control controller you can see all the related switch states - though mine says these are fine and my cc is still stuffed...

 

Be interested to hear of outcome from weekend. The more detail you can gather the better - for example, if sometimes holding back rather than cutting out or dropping to idle might be limp mode - so, could be the lift sensor but often other stuff as well.

 

I'm not sure how much you've read or if you've owned one of these before, but if you do get the "holding back", is the car gutless especially at higher revs until after you switch the ignition off/on? If so, that's limp mode....

 

This is all probably a bit wearying, but with luck not too expensive to fix once you've pinpointed the problems.

 

Good luck with your trip.

[octo0072000]

Spoke too soon. Glow Plug light now flashing again so ran test, got same results as above AND this one too now

 

Address 01: Engine Labels: 028-906-021-AHU.LBL

Controller: 028 906 021 HB

Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G00SG 1907

Coding: 00002

Shop #: WSC 00020

1 Fault Found:

00542 - Needle lift Sensor (G80)

27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Readiness: N/A

 

Will investigate what that means. Hopefully it is the misfiring/cutting problem I am getting. Thanks all.:)

Check the wiring to No 3 Injector - the needle lift sensor is part of No 3 injector. This sensor controls injection timing and problems here will cause limp mode at the very least.

 

the senser is in the injector pump it's not PD engine so no wiring on the injectors

 

i would change the fuel filter when you change the filter fill it full of injector cleaner before refitting it to the engine then drive it like you stole it to give the injectors a clean out

Edited May 25, 2012 by octo0072000

[seatkid]

the senser is in the injector pump it's not PD engine so no wiring on the injectors

 

Really? :)

 

Well, here is a picture of my engine. Look closely at no3 injector and you will notice it is much larger than the others and has a wire coming out from the top to the right.

[octo0072000]

the senser is in the injector pump it's not PD engine so no wiring on the injectors

 

Really? :)

 

Well, here is a picture of my engine. Look closely at no3 injector and you will notice it is much larger than the others and has a wire coming out from the top to the right.

 

funny that all references i could find on other places on those codes say senser is in the pump will have to have a look at mine when cover is off so i could be wrong according to yours is yours 90 or 110 bhp motor

[chrispb123456]

Check the multi plug connector on injector pump for corrosion, also that connector on number 3 injector

[bigdave982]

Check the multi plug connector on injector pump for corrosion, also that connector on number 3 injector

 

whilst on that no3injector connector have a look under the rubber boot as well ,mine had a loose crimp,causing missfire like symptoms and weeks of sodding about trying to find the cause

Edited May 26, 2012 by bigdave982

[alan_131]

FWIW I found this http://www.tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ/TDiFAQ-1.html quite handy in understanding the way the TDI control system works and for beginners like me why the connections highlighted by seatkid/crispb123456/bigdave982 are important. I think our mk1 110 is a slight mix between the A3/A4 engines as described on this site(US doesn't have Galaxy AFAIK), but essentially it's as they describe the A3 (ie non-pd, not chain drive) but with a variable vane turbo - is that fair everybody?

 

Bleeno contributed the link to this site in the FAQ and it's been very helpful for me since I got my first galaxy - a belated thanks if you're still around...

[Legendaryjim]

Seem to have fixed it!! Coming off the No.3 injector, the wire goes to a little plastic plug that on my galaxy, hs one side missing. The wires on the missing side have small spade connectors on them. As I was checking the connection, one of the spades broke off. I took it for a spin to see what difference it made to the performance. It had hardly any power at all. I could accelerate but only very slowly and it was coughing and spluttering alot. Anyway, so I got it home, crimped a new spade connector on the broken wire and connected it back up, cleared the DTC's and took it for a spin. Wow! now it goes like stimk compared with how it used to be. Not misfiring symptoms after 30 miles of hard driving. Plenty of power to and NO flashing glow plug light. When I got it home, I put it straight on the VAGCOM, ran the tests again and NO FAULTS FOUND on the engine controllers. Happy Days!!! Thanks everyone for all your help in solving this with me. I just have all the other problems to fix now.

[SilverBeast]

Brilliant. Well done.

[Legendaryjim]

Here are a couple of picks of the offending plug I was talking about, the second with the broken spade. Seems to be a lot of "gash" wiring jobs on my engine really, Is that quite normal for a car of this age? Next on my list is to get the cruise control working and get the air con re-gassed to see if that fixes the climatron problem.

[alan_131]

Excellent news! As far as the wiring goes, Galaxy do seem to be a bit more subject to problems than most, but then the tdi in particular probably has a longer useful life than many cars. It all rather depends on the attitude, ability and pocket of the previous owners/mechanics I'm afraid. You've remade you connection with crimps etc, somebodyelse might have done it with choc strip and sellotape. My 110 has been messed around a lot, the 90 is as it left the factory apart from one reasonably remade connection in a door and one tailgate wire. Rest's original afaik or been done properly... both about 160k.

 

Good luck with the rest!

[philclemo]

Well done all involved. It just goes to show that modern engines are very sophisticated pieces of kit and ergo faults/problems are not always that obvious. Thank goodness for forums like this and diagnostics!!!!

[Legendaryjim]

Well done all involved. Thank goodness for forums like this and diagnostics!!!!

 

 

Ditto that!

[Legendaryjim]

Bugger, The other spade connector, the one I didnt fix the other day, has just snapped off! I rang my local ford garage (not a main dealer) and I was asking for a replacement needle lift sensor but he couldnt find the part I needed. Whats happened is, Ive had to make a really quick repair as wife had to goto work, so i chopped the half of the original connector that was left, off, and then crimped the wires together more permanently using just straight through crimps. Job done! Now I would like to just get a new wire and plug complete and fix it back to its proper state. The wires coming from the loom seem very short though, might have to extend them. Can anyone clarify that it is actually called the neddle lift sensor? The parts guy had not heard of that. Only thing remotely similar on his system he had down as an "adaptor" lol. Very helpfull. Cheers all.

[seatkid]

It'll be something like "No.3 Injector"

 

Fords will be a horrendous price, Try VW (Sharan) or Seat (Alhambra) dealers usually a lot cheaper with some dealers offering 30% discount for "old cars"

 

Alternativley give GSF car parts a ring they can source most parts and will be the cheapest.

 

But why change the injector/sensor (its a single unit)? You've already proven that its fine and only problem is the wiring - that can easily be fixed.

Edited May 28, 2012 by seatkid

[octo0072000]

just extend the wiring but solder the wires and use electrical srinkwrap on them job done

[Legendaryjim]

Thank you guys, I will solder them together and heat shrink them. job done as youve said. think I just needed to know that was gonna be an ok way to do it to be fair. Thanks for the link. GSF Carparts seem really good :D

[andrewlobel]

I have an 02 Galaxy 1.9TDi with Air Conditioning problems - my AC Repair man suspects that as he cannot find a significant leak but it keeps losing gas in the space of 4-6 days that the evaporator is leaking. He has given me two options - replace the evaporator which is a big job involving removing the dash board or use a "rad weld" system espaecially for AC units - has anyone any thoughts on teh options, any success with stopping leaks in AC systems, has anyone had an evaporator fail?

Edited April 4, 2016 by andrewlobel

[bigdave982]

Now me, id be having the " insignificant" leaks fixed and see what happens

[BrianH]

You should be getting a yellow dye put in with the oil and gas recharge - the idea being you can see where its leaking from by finding the dye. (it shows up better with the yellow glasses and uv light, but still visible without)

 

On my mk1 the air con evaporator is relatively easy to see - Removal of the gloveboxes and heater motor exposes part of it, Not sure how similar the mk2 is. But you could have a look for yourself.

 

If you've ever used radweld you will know it rarely works for long, if even at all. It has a habit of causing more problems from what i've seen, The air con system is far more delicate/precise than the engine cooling system, so putting that kind of thing in there just sounds like a bad idea from the start to me.

 

Taking the dash out isn't as horrendous as I'd expected (had to have mine out for the heater matrix) but not something you want to do unless its really necessary.