Galaxy Issues

[SPIKEYJIMBO]

Good morning all,

 

I have owned a 2001 (y) plate galaxy tdi with the auy engine for about 2 months now and have had a few issues egr valve and sticky vanes, most of which has been sorted by the help of you on here and the sellers warranty. Im after some advice please on two following issues im having:

 

firstly

when I start the car I can hear what sounds like electrical ticking behind the dash on drivers side this stops after a few seconds not sure what this is could anyone enlighten me?

 

Secondly:

Temp guage rises up to 90 slowly, but if I turn on the heater fan in the front the temp guage slowly goes down to around 70/80 and dont go back up to 90. I know the run on pump isnt working and im due to replace this and the water pump is prob overdue at 10200 miles, could these be the issue or am I missing something

 

All help will be very much appreciated as the car has about 4 weeks warranty remaining

 

Many thanks

James

[billywizzo]

Hi

Dunno about the ticking noise but I am sure someone will.

As for the temp gauge. Does you aux heater (the one under the rear passenger door, not in the car) work.

This could be part of the problem. When mine didn't work, the heater fans on full were cooling the water down quite a bit in the cold weather.

I would look into the aux heater and get it working and also the run on pump as the heater does need it to stop it overheating.

Also look into getting a vagcom lead and software (from fleabay) so you can see what the car is doing a bit better, like fault codes and running temperatures.

Don't think it is the water pump as it would overheat not underheat if it was broken.

 

Bill

[chrispb123456]

Good morning all,

 

I have owned a 2001 (y) plate galaxy tdi with the auy engine for about 2 months now and have had a few issues egr valve and sticky vanes, most of which has been sorted by the help of you on here and the sellers warranty. Im after some advice please on two following issues im having:

 

firstly

when I start the car I can hear what sounds like electrical ticking behind the dash on drivers side this stops after a few seconds not sure what this is could anyone enlighten me?

 

Secondly:

Temp guage rises up to 90 slowly, but if I turn on the heater fan in the front the temp guage slowly goes down to around 70/80 and dont go back up to 90. I know the run on pump isnt working and im due to replace this and the water pump is prob overdue at 10200 miles, could these be the issue or am I missing something

 

All help will be very much appreciated as the car has about 4 weeks warranty remaining

 

 

Many thanks

James

Hi

First thoughts on the ticking noise for the location you give is a relay clicking in the fuse/central electrics box, also the booster heater dosing pump makes a ticking noise when starting up, this does quieten down when heaters fully fired up although I gather yours isn't working due to the fact your temperature is falling when you put blowers on, this is because the engine doesn't make enough heat on it's own at low speed.

The run on pump needs to be working to ensure coolant circulation through rear compartment heater and correct operation of booster heater that said the booster may have its own problems and even be locked out if it has flame out errors or overheats logged.

Vag-Com will be needed to check this for easier diagnosis.

Pull the fuse box cover down and listen closely for this noise there the dosing pump is located outside under the car in front of diesel tank in line with drivers seat

[SPIKEYJIMBO]

Hello Bill

 

Thanks for the prompt response, No the aux heater under the car does not work, have read the faq section and will change the glow plug and hope that it works after the codes are re set, thought the run on pump played a part in this too.. Sounds like your prob was similar to mine.. As for the vagcom lead me and computers do not get on and I am not very techy minded so would have to be a trip to a garage

 

Once again many thanks for replying

 

James

[billywizzo]

Hello Bill

 

Thanks for the prompt response, No the aux heater under the car does not work, have read the faq section and will change the glow plug and hope that it works after the codes are re set, thought the run on pump played a part in this too.. Sounds like your prob was similar to mine.. As for the vagcom lead me and computers do not get on and I am not very techy minded so would have to be a trip to a garage

 

Once again many thanks for replying

 

James

 

If you plan to keep the car for a few years, then I suggest that you get the newer uprate glow plug from a VW dealer as it will last a lot longer. I have been through 2 cheaper ones in a year and now have the newer one.

You don't have to be techy minded to use vagcom for code clearing as all the instructions were on the disc that came with mine, and it was under

[SPIKEYJIMBO]

Thanks Chris/Bill

 

Yeah I plan to keep the car for a good few years only just got it as my neighbour wrote off my old car, just been gsf and brought a run on pump will get that fitted with the service on tue. On starting the car again and listening more intensley it seems the ticking noise is comming from the 3 blowers mounted on the dash, would this still be contistent with the dosing pump (what is a dosing pump?) or possibly where I knocked something yesterday when I hoovered the leaves out of the bulkhead.

 

Bill, I have seen these leads on ebay, is anyone ok as long a it is a vagcom and also am I right in thinking that I have to download software from another site or does it come on a disk and then you load it on the computer

 

Cheers guys

[chrispb123456]

Thanks Chris/Bill

 

Yeah I plan to keep the car for a good few years only just got it as my neighbour wrote off my old car, just been gsf and brought a run on pump will get that fitted with the service on tue. On starting the car again and listening more intensley it seems the ticking noise is comming from the 3 blowers mounted on the dash, would this still be contistent with the dosing pump (what is a dosing pump?) or possibly where I knocked something yesterday when I hoovered the leaves out of the bulkhead.

 

Bill, I have seen these leads on ebay, is anyone ok as long a it is a vagcom and also am I right in thinking that I have to download software from another site or does it come on a disk and then you load it on the computer

 

Cheers guys

Im glad I dont live in your street :) Dosing pump is the small solenoid type pump that supplies the diesel to the booster heater, as you said the heater is not working then it wont be that.

 

Do you have climatronic or manual heating controls?

 

Some leads come with a software disc which has the 409.1 version but the latest free software is VCDS lite from Ross Tech you can use either

 

usefull links;

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-USB-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-409-1-OBD2-II-LEAD-VAG-COM-/330399696070?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4ced5b44c6

 

http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html

[SPIKEYJIMBO]

Chris,

I was not a happy bunny when he done it, then even had the cheek to ask if i could help push his car out of my rear quarter panel as it was blocking the road... I have manual heating controls and it only clicks when i start the engine dont hear it again until next time its started..

Might get brave and order a lead besides gives me an excuse to sort out "technical stuff" and dissapear for a few hours.lol

[zorgman]

does this ticking only happen on first start of the day by chance

[gregers]

wonder if itsthe fuel pump your hearing.

[SPIKEYJIMBO]

Zorgman, it happens when ever I start the car.wasn't there a few days ago only appeared after I hoovered the leaves out of the bulk head.. Bag com is also ordered so stand by for when I royally mess something up

[SPIKEYJIMBO]

Ok so vag com has arrived today, only ordered it yesterday, cheers chris for the link to the correct one very much appreciated.Sorry for all the questions but I have the disk that came with it however is the free download from ross tech better and is it just a simple case of clicking download?

Once vag com is running is it possible I can accidently delete bits from the car when plugged in as im a complete computer novice and my luck lately is pretty bad.

 

Once I have changed the run on pump am I likely to have a more constant engine temperature and heat or is that achieved also with the glow plug changed in the heater, was chilly today and the mrs was complaining the kids were cold so realy want to try and sort this out

 

Cheers all

[billywizzo]

Hi

The disc should come with vagcom409.1 which is ok to use. The newer version VCDS- Lite is the same but will work on windows 7 as vagcom sometimes wont.

Will try and help you install it but i did it ages ago so hopefully will remember all the steps.

First you need to install the cable driver so put the cd in the drive then plug in the cable.

When it asks about drivers, you should tell the computer to look at the cd selecting the folder for your windows version. Hope that makes sense.

Then when it says finished you can install vagcom or VCDS.

Once installed you need to go to the car.

Plug the cable into the car, the socket is in the trim under the steering wheel, and turn on the ignition.

Start up vagcom and then run options.

You need to select a com port and then click test.

You may need to try all of them until it says port ok device found or something like that.

Then exit the options and click select control module.

Then select the aux heater.

Then fault codes and make a note of any listed and then clear codes.

The engine one needs the engine running (well does on my car).

That is the procedure for all the modules although some wont work as they will not be on your car.

Wont go into the meas block untill you get it up and runing.

As long as you only do the basic function it is safe to use and you wont damage anything.

Always best to clear fault codes to see it it was a glitch a while ago or if they come back.

This is a good place for info on it

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page

 

Good luck.

 

Bill

Edited January 22, 2011 by billywizzo

[SPIKEYJIMBO]

Bill,

Many thanks for all your advice, vag-com set up had a quick scan and cleared an immobiliser fault went to check the heater module but couldnt open it for some reason then windows informed me vag com had stopped responding, so going to have another try shortly

will keep you posted

[billywizzo]

Bill,

Many thanks for all your advice, vag-com set up had a quick scan and cleared an immobiliser fault went to check the heater module but couldnt open it for some reason then windows informed me vag com had stopped responding, so going to have another try shortly

will keep you posted

Dont bother with the auto scan as the free version will only scan 3 modules then stop so you need to do each one on it own.

[SPIKEYJIMBO]

Ok,

re installed the software from the ross tech website,seems to run much better however cant access the aux heater module keeps saying something like no control module found quite gutted at this because I want to get the aux heater working could it be because the run on pump isnt working??, had a scan on other modules and get the same reply, did however remover an immobiliser fault that hasnt returned yet and fault code 01135 interior sensor or something similar will check back in a few days..

Bill would like to say a big thanks to you as your help has been fantastic..

 

Still have the clicking though guys/girls any ideas

[chrispb123456]

Hi Jimbo

Glad to hear you have your VagCom cable are you able to open most modules ie, Engine, central Electrics, etc then at least you have configured your VagCom/laptop setup if your having problems contacting Aux Heater firstly check fuse 12 because the heater needs power going to it to be able to interrogate it, if the fuse is OK then you need to reach up in the gap at the end of heater and disconnect the multiplug to check condition of the wiring going into the plugs as the larger red wire is known for corroding and breaking off.

[SPIKEYJIMBO]

Chris,

Can open engine,immobiliser,brakes and a couple of others but aux heater and a few more get the no module found show up, had a read of the ross tech website and changed the latency of the port down to 2 as recomended mine was on 16 so hopefully this might make a difference when I scan again..Have checked fuse 12, a clear 25amp jobby its there and in working condition which leads me on to the wiring When you say "reach up in the gap at the end of the heater" in guessing you mean the aux heater under the car?. The mrs is on nights for the next 2 days so will try and take a peek if I get a chance. Is the wiring part an easy fix?

[SPIKEYJIMBO]

Had a quick nosey under the car and can see some wires going into the back of the heater, however some one has covered them in stupid ammounts of black gaffer tape, im guessing there was a fault or something previous to my ownership. Should I find there is a corroded or broken wire is it easily fixed?

[chrispb123456]

Chris,

Can open engine,immobiliser,brakes and a couple of others but aux heater and a few more get the no module found show up, had a read of the ross tech website and changed the latency of the port down to 2 as recomended mine was on 16 so hopefully this might make a difference when I scan again..Have checked fuse 12, a clear 25amp jobby its there and in working condition which leads me on to the wiring When you say "reach up in the gap at the end of the heater" in guessing you mean the aux heater under the car?. The mrs is on nights for the next 2 days so will try and take a peek if I get a chance. Is the wiring part an easy fix?

Hi Jimbo

Yes that is what I mean but it may be easier for you to unbolt the heater bracket and drop it down leaving the water and fuel pipes connected.

 

The easy fix.

 

Check the two half's of the plug, the red wire is the one that usually breaks/corrodes, the easy fix is to bypass the plug, you will need to extend one cable with a piece of similar size cable with a suitable plug connector.

 

Obviously thats not the proper way to repair it as you need to disassemble the plugs and remove old pins to solder on new ones

[SPIKEYJIMBO]

Chris,

This talk of by passing plugs is beyond me, will remove the gaffer tape some one has half hastily applied and have a better look, might have to be a job for the brother in law or mechanic. At least however I seem to be moving in the right direction for the heating, new run on pump gets put in on tue so fingers crossed

[SPIKEYJIMBO]

Chris,

Had a better look earlier after I removed the gaffer tape can see the plug you were on about and the red wire you are talking about, tried to pull the plug out however it seems stuck (posibly more force required) and still looks in tact quite clean and little to no rusting..when you say bypass the plug am I right in thinking remove the red wire from both parts of the socket and join them together with perhaps something like a spade connector

[chrispb123456]

Chris,

Had a better look earlier after I removed the gaffer tape can see the plug you were on about and the red wire you are talking about, tried to pull the plug out however it seems stuck (posibly more force required) and still looks in tact quite clean and little to no rusting..when you say bypass the plug am I right in thinking remove the red wire from both parts of the socket and join them together with perhaps something like a spade connector

Hi Jimbo

you need to check both parts of the plugs, if your having trouble unplugging probably best to drop it down as it will make it easier, someones obviously been there before as there's no tape on the plugs normally.

 

If the wiring looks intact when you able to see both parts clearly you may want to check there is 12 volt present on the red cable going to the heater.

 

If you do have voltage there then we need to look elsewhere but lets confirm the 12 volt presence first.

[SPIKEYJIMBO]

Quick update on the booster heater, removed all the gaffer tape around the plug and pulled the plug out, wiring was good however some one had placed a piece of cardboard between the connectors hence no response on the vag com..Just got home plugged her in and hey presto found the aux heater and 5 codes all the same 01414 (whats this?) so have cleared these and will check if they come back.Run on pump also replaced with the service and I get the lovely humm you lot all get so a constructive day I think....

 

full service

run on pump installed

and vag com working froperly

 

All make for me being one happy bunny

 

Thanks all that contributed to the post and special thanks to both Bill and Chris you two have been legends

[SPIKEYJIMBO]

All,

Cleared the fault codes on the aux heater 5x 01414 they are slowly starting to return though, have googled the code and checked the forum but dont get a definative on what the problem is apart from something to do with the fan if I remember correctly could this be fixed I had no flame out errors..The heater underneath now gets warm however the exhaust does not. run on pump replaced and working. Slowly starting to make progress but keep hitting hurdles all the way..

 

Any help is greatly appreciated

Cheers all