Stevo Posted January 4, 2011 Report Posted January 4, 2011 First off im new here so go easy on me,I bought a year 2000 mk2 galaxy 115bhp tdi for the missus a few weeks back and ive a never ending list of stuff to repair/replace I got it cheap knowing it needed work done but the list grows by the day!!I can service/fiddle around with cars but im no expert or dab hand at it so all help/info appreciated First up the interior heater takes forever to heat up and the rear heater over the passenger door does'nt seem to work! Having searched the forums ive seen people mention a jet engine sort of sound that i dont have? Ive an intermittent idle problem, engine ticks over and idles as it should, then for no reason it revs and idles about 3-400 rpm higher at a standstill and while driving its very sporadic and is very annoying and can only assume its not healty on the engine! The glow plugs need to be changed also.. Next up reverse lights not working (new bulbs fitted)still not working Temperature gauge in dashbord cluster does not work (assume its the sender?) ABS light showing on dashboard (how do i find which one is broke?) Passenger electric window does'nt do anything via the passenger door switch but works perfect with the drivers side switch Drivers side front door window goes down perfect but wont come back up unless you mess with the switch (could take 2 mins - 30mins) to finally close it back up even if the window is let down 2" Ive a knocking sound from the front end over bumps the shocks are in decent condition (i will be replacing them though) ive checked all the arms/links no play in them could it be the rubbers on top of the shock at the strut?? Front winscreen wipers are driving me nutts also, they slap the edge of the winscreen rubbers when wiping (very annoying and noisy) and when you turn them off the passenger side wiper goes down as it should when wiping but when parked it comes back up about 5-6" at an angle (see pic below) http://i55.tinypic.com/2502ng7.jpg Quote
seatkid Posted January 4, 2011 Report Posted January 4, 2011 (edited) First up the interior heater takes forever to heat up and the rear heater over the passenger door does'nt seem to work! Having searched the forums ive seen people mention a jet engine sort of sound that i dont have? Look up Aux or Booster Heater in the tech FAQ section for full information Ive an intermittent idle problem, engine ticks over and idles as it should, then for no reason it revs and idles about 3-400 rpm higher at a standstill and while driving its very sporadic and is very annoying and can only assume its not healty on the engine! Possibly a sticking or dirty accelerator pedal sensor. According to some they can be cleaned, cost around £45 IIRC. The glow plugs need to be changed also.. to be expected..... Next up reverse lights not working (new bulbs fitted)still not working Check you fitted the right type of bulb and fitted them correctly (its possible to force bulbs in the wrong position). Then check the fuse, and look for voltage coming on at the fuse when reverse selected. If not it probably the reverse switch, if it does then its probably the wiring in the rubber gaitors to the tailgate broken/shorted. See Tech FAQ for further details about inspecting/repairing rubber gaitor wiring. Temperature gauge in dashboard cluster does not work (assume its the sender?) Might be the sensor/wiring or it could be engine isn't getting up to temperature - the gauge doesn't start to move until it gets over 50 deg C. In that case it could be a thermostat or water pump problem. Might be associated with your lack of heater problem. ABS light showing on dashboard (how do i find which one is broke?) Unplug the ABS sensor in each wheel arch and check with a multimeter. Broken sensors are usually open circuit as opposed to around 2- 5k (not quite sure - look it up) Passenger electric window does'nt do anything via the passenger door switch but works perfect with the drivers side switch Again the wiring in the rubber gaitor to the door is the likely culprit. Drivers side front door window goes down perfect but wont come back up unless you mess with the switch (could take 2 mins - 30mins) to finally close it back up even if the window is let down 2" Again check wiring in the rubber gaitor Ive a knocking sound from the front end over bumps the shocks are in decent condition (i will be replacing them though) ive checked all the arms/links no play in them could it be the rubbers on top of the shock at the strut?? 95% probability its one or both ARB drop link(s). Its difficult to check them by hand because they are under load, even a small mount of play in a joint sounds like a terrible knock. Fortunately cheap and easy to change. Front winscreen wipers are driving me nutts also, they slap the edge of the winscreen rubbers when wiping (very annoying and noisy) and when you turn them off the passenger side wiper goes down as it should when wiping but when parked it comes back up about 5-6" at an angle (see pic below) Check the passenger wiper arm is fitted correctly and the bolt on the shaft is tightened, check it by lifting the wiper arm - if it is sloppy (in the direction of wiping) remove it completely - check/clean the splines, then refit, tightening the bolt (but dont overtighten it as you may strip the thread)There are lots of threads/posts re windscreen wipers - some in the FAQ. Problems are usually associated with the linkage. Edited January 4, 2011 by seatkid Quote
Mirez Posted January 4, 2011 Report Posted January 4, 2011 If you have no jet engine sound then the aux heater probably isn't working - that alone will cause it to take forever to warm up although a thermostat fault will cause the same. The idle problem could be caused by ay one of countless sensors along with a few other bits and pieces - ideally you should look to get the fault cods read, cleared and the read again to see what needs inspection. Dead glow plugs will have an effect on idle when cold, fortunately they are a doddle to change on the galaxy. I would seriously consider buying or borrowing a VAG-Com cable and software - you'll be able to see what sensors are faulty on the engine (including the temp sender), interogate the ABS system to find whats putting that light on and and generally inspect the electrical circuits of the car. Fortunately nothing you've got sounds overly nasty, a bit of a pain true but you should be able to fix everything on that list as DIY for less then a couple of hundred in new parts. Quote
zorgman Posted January 4, 2011 Report Posted January 4, 2011 cor i would love your car to get at. honest tho its all veryvery minor stuff you have faulty with not a lot of money needs putting in as miraz says. ive got a post on here with the 2 cheap options handheld vs vagcom with price both under a tenner. glow plugs i buy off ebay think its only Quote
Stevo Posted January 4, 2011 Author Report Posted January 4, 2011 (edited) Thank you very much for the welcomes and info folks, really appreciate it!! Ive just ordered the VAGCOM lead off ebay tonite along with the glow plugs, ive 2 days off work so ill see how the motor factors do on drop links if there to much it'll be ebay again lol.. Also with regards to the temp gauge it does'nt move at all even after an hour of driving.. Is the pollen filter needed, i doubt it has ever been changed and i was going to pull the filter out and not bother replacing it, could this affect the heater?? I suspect the car was lying up for a while before i bought it also Edited January 4, 2011 by Stevo Quote
chrispb123456 Posted January 5, 2011 Report Posted January 5, 2011 Thank you very much for the welcomes and info folks, really appreciate it!! Ive just ordered the VAGCOM lead off ebay tonite along with the glow plugs, ive 2 days off work so ill see how the motor factors do on drop links if there to much it'll be ebay again lol.. Also with regards to the temp gauge it does'nt move at all even after an hour of driving.. Is the pollen filter needed, i doubt it has ever been changed and i was going to pull the filter out and not bother replacing it, could this affect the heater?? I suspect the car was lying up for a while before i bought it alsoSTOP DONT DO IT replace the filter, you dont want all those leaves and s**t going down into the heater and give you more problems. You can get just the plain paper filter which will stop the dirt getting in, or you can get the more expensive carbon filter which helps reduce incoming smells Quote
Stevo Posted January 5, 2011 Author Report Posted January 5, 2011 STOP DONT DO IT replace the filter, you dont want all those leaves and s**t going down into the heater and give you more problems. You can get just the plain paper filter which will stop the dirt getting in, or you can get the more expensive carbon filter which helps reduce incoming smells Lolz, cheers chris, i didnt think it would be a problem doing it that way as the air filter and airbox should take care of that?Ill chuck one in so :) Quote
sparky Paul Posted January 5, 2011 Report Posted January 5, 2011 Ive just ordered the VAGCOM lead off ebay tonite You'll not regret that purchase, best Quote
Stevo Posted January 5, 2011 Author Report Posted January 5, 2011 Ive just ordered the VAGCOM lead off ebay tonite You'll not regret that purchase, best Quote
zorgman Posted January 5, 2011 Report Posted January 5, 2011 bet it cures the knock, while your waiting for links give the nuts top and bottom a spray of release fluid every day as 10 to 1 thier siezed. vagcom dead easy to use av a look at link below, give u a bit to read up on. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/tdi.html Quote
Stevo Posted January 5, 2011 Author Report Posted January 5, 2011 bet it cures the knock, while your waiting for links give the nuts top and bottom a spray of release fluid every day as 10 to 1 thier siezed. vagcom dead easy to use av a look at link below, give u a bit to read up on. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/tdi.html Thank you for the link and tip fella :) ill start the spraying of the drop link bolts tomorrow! Quote
tomba Posted January 5, 2011 Report Posted January 5, 2011 bet it cures the knock, while your waiting for links give the nuts top and bottom a spray of release fluid every day as 10 to 1 thier siezed. vagcom dead easy to use av a look at link below, give u a bit to read up on. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/tdi.htmlMy 2003 2.3ltr Zetec is in to garage tomorrow to cure same ''knocking''. He said it was a ''pin'' but i imagine it's these AntiRollBar links that you refer to. Annoying metallic clunking....hope it's sorted as it's driving me mad! :) Hope he gets it at ebay price! Quote
Stevo Posted January 5, 2011 Author Report Posted January 5, 2011 bet it cures the knock, while your waiting for links give the nuts top and bottom a spray of release fluid every day as 10 to 1 thier siezed. vagcom dead easy to use av a look at link below, give u a bit to read up on. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/tdi.htmlMy 2003 2.3ltr Zetec is in to garage tomorrow to cure same ''knocking''. He said it was a ''pin'' but i imagine it's these AntiRollBar links that you refer to. Annoying metallic clunking....hope it's sorted as it's driving me mad! :) Hope he gets it at ebay price! Yup sound like the shock is going to fall off or a wheel about to drop off.. Quote
Stevo Posted January 13, 2011 Author Report Posted January 13, 2011 (edited) Got my collection of vagcom fault codes tonight :0 G71M=1 ABS - Too many codes to communicate!!!!!!!!!! (ABS light on since we got it) 16955 Brake switch(F) implausable signal 18047 Accelerator position sensor 1/2 (G79/G185) Implausable signal 17664 Engine coolant temp sensor open or short to plus 01491 Glow plug for heater Q9 01142 Central locking motors driver door and tank valve locked 36-10 open circuit intermitent 00532 Supply volt B+ 07-10 signal too low intermitent 00926 Termanal 30 002 lower limit exceeded Edited January 13, 2011 by Stevo Quote
chrispb123456 Posted January 13, 2011 Report Posted January 13, 2011 Got my collection of vagcom fault codes tonight :0 G71M=1 ABS - Too many codes to communicate!!!!!!!!!! (ABS light on since we got it) 16955 Brake switch(F) implausable signal 18047 Accelerator position sensor 1/2 (G79/G185) Implausable signal 17664 Engine coolant temp sensor open or short to plus 01491 Glow plug for heater Q9 01142 Central locking motors driver door and tank valve locked 36-10 open circuit intermitent 00532 Supply volt B+ 07-10 signal too low intermitent 00926 Termanal 30 002 lower limit exceededMake a note or print these off then clear all faults, then drive car and retest see whats come back as they may be old faults from years gone by Quote
Stevo Posted January 13, 2011 Author Report Posted January 13, 2011 Cheers chris ill give that a go today :rolleyes: Quote
tomba Posted January 13, 2011 Report Posted January 13, 2011 http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/tdi.htmlMy 2003 2.3ltr Zetec is in to garage tomorrow to cure same ''knocking''. He said it was a ''pin'' but i imagine it's these AntiRollBar links that you refer to. Annoying metallic clunking....hope it's sorted as it's driving me mad! :rolleyes: Hope he gets it at ebay price! Yup sound like the shock is going to fall off or a wheel about to drop off..That was the sound, yes! Turns out that it WAS the anti-roll bar behind the driver's side wheel. Garage was very good and net amount charged was Quote
Stevo Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Posted January 21, 2011 Good god what else can this galaxy throw at me :)Brakes went yesturday, peddle to the floor no brakes at all!!!Went this morning and got pads and the tool to screw back in the pistons in the rears, brake fluid and a few bits and peices..After an hour the rear right wheel finally came off after serious hammer action to the back of the rim, caliper off and noticed only the inner (outward facing)pad was bare metal, paid no attention and out with the old pads wound back the piston and sat new pads in them the problems started!!!The caliper would'nt fit over the new pads and line up with the 2 caliper bolt mounts, after alot of bad language and the cold setting in i remembered the little rubber mounts should move to allow me line everything up but they were seized solid :) Out with the tec7 lubricant got a load sprayed on and slowly turned so sprayed some more on then click it broke in the hub/caliper bracket im not far off giving up on this car :( Quote
Mirez Posted January 21, 2011 Report Posted January 21, 2011 You need to look over the whole car and have a serious think... it sounds like you have one thats not been maintained. It would appear you have to be quite carefull when you pick any MPV, a lot have been used by families who either dont have the money or the time to maintain a car properly, I saw some really knarly examples when I was hunting which looked presentable on the outside but when you delved deaper they had obviously never seen any form of decent maintenance. Quote
Stevo Posted January 22, 2011 Author Report Posted January 22, 2011 You need to look over the whole car and have a serious think... it sounds like you have one thats not been maintained. It would appear you have to be quite carefull when you pick any MPV, a lot have been used by families who either dont have the money or the time to maintain a car properly, I saw some really knarly examples when I was hunting which looked presentable on the outside but when you delved deaper they had obviously never seen any form of decent maintenance. Yup dont think its a keeper at this stage, ill tidy it up a bit do the niggly things and move it on, ill give it one thing tho its thought me alot about them and i wont get caught again :) Quote
Stevo Posted January 26, 2011 Author Report Posted January 26, 2011 (edited) More work done today, fitted new front droplinks old ones were completely ruined after inspecting upon removal!!Fitted new rear caliper sliders as both rears had seized :)New pads fitted and said id give everything a bleed and get the old fluid out, done the rear passenger side first easy as it should be, then moved onto the rear drivers side No fluid :? changed bleed nipple still nothing after removing the nipple completely not so much as a drip of fluid!!Puzzled i slide under and found some bright spark had undone the caliper to main brake line feed(at the rear axle) and blanked off the feed with a bodged contraption how the f*** could sumone do such a bodge repair/temp solution to whatever problem there was..... Now what i need to know is first off could the disconnected brake pipe be the cause of my ABS light staying on?? Inspected everything before i found the disconnected pipe as it has me puzzled all ABS sensors seem to be as they should bar the rear drivers side which looks to have 2 connections as if someone put a front abs sensor on the rear, rings seem perfect also on the drive shafts! What reason's could there have been to make the bright spark disconnect the brake fluid line?? Piston went back in with no problems when doing pads so i assume it could'nt have been a seized caliper issue?? could it have been a leak at the connection?? All help thoughts info wanted/needed folks! Edited January 26, 2011 by Stevo Quote
Mirez Posted January 26, 2011 Report Posted January 26, 2011 Hell thats insane, when was the last MoT? It won't be the cause of the light being on though, thats more likely a sensor issue - probably that dodgy one! Short of a leak I can't think of any other reason why you would stop a caliper working but even if it was leaking who in their right mind would just disconnect it? Braking on 3 wheels must have felt bloody weird... hence when the last MoT was done, it would have been picked up on then - personally I'd go back to the previous owner and give him a right going over - he's basically knowingly sold you a death wagon. If the MoT was recent then it would be easier to prove he knew of the bodge. Quote
Stevo Posted January 27, 2011 Author Report Posted January 27, 2011 (edited) Hell thats insane, when was the last MoT? It won't be the cause of the light being on though, thats more likely a sensor issue - probably that dodgy one! Short of a leak I can't think of any other reason why you would stop a caliper working but even if it was leaking who in their right mind would just disconnect it? Braking on 3 wheels must have felt bloody weird... hence when the last MoT was done, it would have been picked up on then - personally I'd go back to the previous owner and give him a right going over - he's basically knowingly sold you a death wagon. If the MoT was recent then it would be easier to prove he knew of the bodge. I want to visit the garage i got it but id be affraid id loose the plot been honest :) No idea of the last MOT and im in southern ireland, i got the death wagon in northern ireland and we have the NCT which would be equivalent to MOT but it wont be getting tested or driven anytime soon as its literally death trap as it sits!! Edited January 27, 2011 by Stevo Quote
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