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Posted

stripped and re-brushed the run-on pump today !!!

 

took about 3 hours all in, due to me not replacing the hose clips with jubilee clips--original clips were a nightmare to refit, as i left fuel filter in place as well.

got it off in about 30 mins, popped the lid off to find loads of dust, so spray brake cleaner the inside of the motor and the top where the brushes are. had 2 oversize alternator brushes so sanded them on a piece of emery to size/shape. cut to length with just a hacksaw blade and cut a groove for the pressure springs with the hacksaw blade as well.

to keep the brushes in holders so i could re-assemble took some thinking? couldnt find freeze spray so i used cotton to tie them back and wrapped cotton around the plastic body were the multi-plug attaches. tying knots isnt my strong point so tried twice !!!

lined up end cap on motor spindle, guided in to place--then cut the cotton and pull it all the way out to release brushes against armature, then pray they are right. connected to a 9v nicad off a remote control car to make sure motor was working, then bent back securing tags to complete.

refitting is awkward due to me re-using the spring type hose clips and usuing long nose mole grips to fit them, i would advise people to use ordinary hose clips when refitting. i hope to take it to mates garage this week so he can try vagcom to see if the aux heater is merely sulking or needs a new heater plug.

Posted
out of intrest im getting some run on pups and heaters outa some merc sprinters so will av a play fitting one to mine see if it makes any difference, alsonext job is using a slightly modded rear screen heater relay timer to shut off aux heater after 10mins as iv noticed that after 10mins driving cars hot enough for engine to do its own heating also will save some derv. spec reckons 0.65L per hour which all adds up now its hit
Posted

out of intrest im getting some run on pups and heaters outa some merc sprinters so will av a play fitting one to mine see if it makes any difference, alsonext job is using a slightly modded rear screen heater relay timer to shut off aux heater after 10mins as iv noticed that after 10mins driving cars hot enough for engine to do its own heating also will save some derv. spec reckons 0.65L per hour which all adds up now its hit

Posted

out of intrest im getting some run on pups and heaters outa some merc sprinters so will av a play fitting one to mine see if it makes any difference, alsonext job is using a slightly modded rear screen heater relay timer to shut off aux heater after 10mins as iv noticed that after 10mins driving cars hot enough for engine to do its own heating also will save some derv. spec reckons 0.65L per hour which all adds up now its hit

Posted

i put a small on off flick switch in to turn off the aux heater as well, hid it away just under ashtray, i just ran 2 wires through the bulkhead to the sensor terminal.

when you remove the lower dash under the steering wheel area you can see a really big thick lot of wires taped up they go through a giant bung, i made a small hole in and passed the wire through. easier than lifting the bonnet to decide if i want it on or off.

Posted
im still putting switch in thats no problem as dont want it used during summer as shorted out sensor, just going to put switch onto main feed off fusebox as cant be bothered to run cables thru bulkhead, using timer as son borrows car and not bothered about derv so auto switch will sort it out. keeps me thinking what else can i next
Posted

i had he car scanned today; 5 codes stored

 

1 saying function lock

3 of repeated flame interuption

1 of combustion blower -v6

 

all faults cleared and brought the car home

 

and the weather is quite mild , so the heater didnt try to kick in !!!! so i am getting up real early in the morning to see if it works, and if not the temp sensor is going in a tb of ice cream to fool it !!

 

heres hoping that my heater was locked out due to the failed run-on pump?

Posted

i had he car scanned today; 5 codes stored

 

1 saying function lock

3 of repeated flame interuption

1 of combustion blower -v6

 

all faults cleared and brought the car home

 

and the weather is quite mild , so the heater didnt try to kick in !!!! so i am getting up real early in the morning to see if it works, and if not the temp sensor is going in a tb of ice cream to fool it !!

 

heres hoping that my heater was locked out due to the failed run-on pump?

 

Flame out error can be caused by:

1. insufficient work of the blower - ignition process is not completed and flame out logged

2. faulty metering pump - no fuel, no flame

3. faulty glow plug or gauze

 

Faulty run on pump is usually indicated by overheating and would be logged separately.

 

I had problem with my blower fan and at the end it was faulty heater ECU (inner plug) but doesn't have to be in your case. Blower motors tends to corrode and seize - needs to be checked for free wheeling .

 

You can run output tests to check blower and metering pump function from Vagcom (VCDS).

 

George

Posted
took it off this afternoon; fitted new glow plug (only
Posted

and it still wont work.........

 

he scanned it this morning and its locked out, it came back with another fault "blower motor ot working" vagcom could not get blower to spin either. i know its as free as bird as i checked on saturday??? this and other sites refer to problems with solder joints on the pcb, so thats what i will be doing on saturday!! hope its a bad joint or then its get hold of a motor or full heater time.

Posted

and it still wont work.........

 

he scanned it this morning and its locked out, it came back with another fault "blower motor ot working" vagcom could not get blower to spin either. i know its as free as bird as i checked on saturday??? this and other sites refer to problems with solder joints on the pcb, so thats what i will be doing on saturday!! hope its a bad joint or then its get hold of a motor or full heater time.

Are you sure the plastic cover is not fouling the fan as the plastic cover sometimes gets distorted, before you strip it down again try running it with the cover off.

Posted

I had problem with the connector from ECU and whenever I pushed on connector from side, blower started to spin. You can always try to apply 12V to the motor (not for to long as motor is 8.6V)to check if is working properly. If so, heater ECU would be faulty as was on mine. I tried to heat all pins in connector but no luck.

 

PS: I have D5WZ heater version.

 

George

Posted

its doing my head in !!!

first scan had 5 faults;

01492-p0035 function lock

01409-p0035 repeated flame interuption

as above

as above

01414-p0016 combustion air blower v-6 signal outside specification

 

was advised heater plug, it has lasted 5 years anyway. so saturday afternoon removed it and carefully fitted new plug (didnt remove cover/multiplug and leads---just moved aside to use 1/4 drive socket to access the glowplug) checked fan was free and refitted to car. monday night went to collect it, bad news, at first it would not communicate and later on it did and said heater blower is inop. i thought that i havent connected outside multiplug correctly ?, then think perhaps the main red feedwire is gone further back? spoke to mirez and the autoelec who has been doing the diags for free!!! both think its poss the multiplug inside the heater? so this saturday its coming off, piece of pipe to join the heater hoses so i can still use car, but get the heater to bits on the kitchen table. will keep posting till its fixed or been binned !!!

  • 7 years later...
Posted

SO 8 YEARS LATER,  THE BRUSHES NEEDED DOING AGAIN !!

 

I ALSO HAVE A SPARE PUMP THAT IS GETTING NEW BRUSHES PUT IN OVER THE WEEKEND

 

BRUSHES OFF EBAY £5.98 FOR 2 X PAIRS

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