No Speedo And Dancing Fuel Gauge

[tona955]

Hi All,

 

As a new member I would just like to say what a great site this is, and what a pleasure reading through so many good, interesting and informative posts by such helpful members.

 

Although I have a VW Sharan, this forum has been a great help, so thank you to all you clever members.

 

OK, I have a VW Sharan TDi Year2002, engine/gearbox code: AUY/EHH, I bought this car last May with a overheating problem from a private seller and drove it a few miles to my garage so I know the speedo and fuel gauge were working.

 

I removed the engine and replaced the Cylinder head as the old one was in real bad shape, all required gaskets were also replaced.

 

Since the installation of the engine back into the car, I have not been able to get the speedo working and the fuel gauge fluctuates rather allot, especially when braking and turning corners....it's a real pain not to mention the constant beeps.

 

After reading posts on this forum I have done the battery disconnection suggestion and also removed the clocks and reseated the two connectors, I tried to look for the known bad earth issue within the multiplug but it seems well wrapped up in its plastic sleeve, will try and check this tomorrow.

 

I tried to look for faults with VAGCOM within instruments but it comes up all clear, I have read somewhere on here that the gauge needle should do a test cycle upon ignition, is this ture? as mine does nothing at all, mileage count does not go up nor does consumption details. Techo works good and so does the temp gauge/clock.

 

Is there anyway of testing the speedo sensor on the gearbox or indeed the speedo itself?

 

Think I have lived with it long enough and thus would really appreciate a little help with this one.

 

Many thanks in advance once again.

 

Best Regards

[tona955]

Hi

Does anybody know if the dials should do a test reset upon ignition?

 

Thanks

[Bigjeeze]

Hi

Does anybody know if the dials should do a test reset upon ignition?

 

Thanks

 

IIRC the dials do a test on re connection of the battery. The gauge moving about sounds like a resistance problem - it is usually a resistor that damps the action of the fuel tank sender. I am not sure how this is accomplished on the Shalaxy. As to the speedo - if it was working when you removed the engine then you have done something to it! However, I think it must be linked to the fuel gauge problem - whatever that is. Any of you electrical geniuses any ideas?

[tona955]

Hi

 

Thanks for the input, I shall check the battery test tomorrow, I though it was upon ignition like some motorbikes do.

 

Would you know where the resistor would be in order to check it, I see your logic regards the fact that it was working before I reinstalled the engine therefore I did not want to start looking for dry solder joints within the instrument panel just yet.

 

Is there a way to test the speed sensor on the gearbox? does it work much the same as the CAM/Crank sensor magnetic principal.

 

Thanks again.

[zorgman]

its the earths on the multi connector on engine chop all browns join together and earth em out for domr reason earth for clocks comes from there

[tona955]

Thanks, will try that, the multi plug at the right hand upper side of the cylinder block only has 4 or 5 pins in it tho.

[zorgman]

yes thats the one looking at engine its a round multiplug to right on engine in a metal bracket. took me ages to fathom this fault when i done my cyl head good job i had tis for circuit diagram, no idea why it takes its earth from there but i think theres a 10mm bolt (m6) where the loop is fitted to

[tona955]

Thank you Zorgam, strangely I woke up in the middle of the night and remembered that I had a 10mm bolt missing on my ECU bracket, how sad am I, I will check that multi connector tomorrow.

 

I hate this Christmas shopping rush.....

[tona955]

Hi all and a Happy new Year folks

 

Moving on back to this speedo fault.

 

Zorgman, thanks for your input, looking at the round multi connector, I have 5 brown wires with various trace colours are you suggesting that I should strap them together and ground them? do they not provide some power to the injectors within the cylinder head?

 

I cleaned out all contacts on the ECU and checked for grinding and all is good, removed the speedo sensor from top of gearbox and cleaned it all out checked the ground wire and it was good.

 

Will check for ground on the speedo dash connectors today.

 

Would really appreciate it if you could confirm regards the multi block wire earthing.

 

Is there a procedure for testing the speedo Hall sensor without a scope?

 

Kind Regards and thanks in advance.

[tona955]

Hi all,

 

Well, I have checked all my earth points and they buzz out good, checked the 10mm bolt near the multi connector and it is also good. I have also checked the earth pins on the blue connector that plugs into the instrument panel and I have good grounding.

 

I am till not sure regards the brown traced 5 wires within the multi connector, perhaps Zorgman would help out here please.

 

I seem to remember a few months ago while my wife was driving, she decided to re-adjust the steering wheel down a little, the speedo meter started to work but only for about 10miles and packed in again. I can't help thinking that perhaps its simply a bad connection since my engine install.

 

I would appreciate help with the following questions if poss please.

 

1, Should the multiplug wires be grounded, if so which ones?

2, Is there a way of testing the speedometer sensor on the gearbox?

3, Can the free version of VAG-COM test my speedo or sensor.

4, Upon reconnecting the battery I still do not see the clock needle reset.

 

Thanks in advance

Everywhere is closed and I am bored so I might as well fix something....

[zorgman]

they go into the right of connector then thru into other side coming out then terminating into one or two ring connectors that bolt onto the bracket if that helps u find them, off hand cant think about stripes but brown wire is 100% gnd wire

[tona955]

Hi

 

Well I found out which wire was the common ground within the multi plug (Brown/Yellow), but grounding this would not start up the car, turning over but not firing, I removed my madeup earth strap and it fired up so I am clearly on the wrong track.

 

Zorgman, if you are not to busy and have the time I would really appreciate a picture of the area's you are talking about.

 

Many thanks in advance bud.

 

Regards

[JulianDaley]

I had the same problem and eventually traced it to a short in the multi-connector on the back of the instument panel. It looked like the connector had got too hot at some stage and the plastic had melted allowing two wires to touch.

[tona955]

Thanks man, I will have a quick look at the connectors tomorrow, was it the blue or green connector.

 

I still feel it's something to do with me removing and installing the engine, I must have disturbed something, I wish VacCom could test the instruments and the speedo sensor a bit better, won't show up any faults for me.

 

Zorgman seems to have had a very similar fault to mine after his engine install but I can't seem to find the earth line he spoke about.

 

cheers

[tona955]

Hi all,

 

I have checked the connectors at the dash and they seem OK, checked for ground on some of the connectors and it is there.

 

This is the only thing not working on my Sharan, the dancing fuel gauge and the lack of speedo, still do not get a dial reset test upon reconnecting the battery.

 

Would reeeeaaaalllyyy appreciate some more help on this speedo issue folks.

 

Thanks in advance.

[tona955]

Somebody pwetty pwease help me out with my dead speedo issue, I would love to know how many miles /gal its doing, all I know at the moment is that it is bloody good.

 

Thanks again folks.

[Mirez]

Gauge sweep only applies to the Mk1 cluster on start up, the Mk2 does nothing. You can use the "Output Test" button in Vagcom to sweep each guage in turn though but I would suspect a wiring fault rather then a cluster issue. Have you scanned the central electrical and engine modules for fault codes as well? Both of these can report faults with the circuits you have problems with and I'd also check F34 is intact as thats a primary feed for the speed generator and also has a part role in the fuel side of things.

 

When you say you've checked ground is present, did you measure continuity or resistance? You need to be measuring resistance as a high value can also cause these types of problem, report back with the reading.

[tona955]

Hi

 

Thanks Mirez...Firstly, I am not that competent with Vagcom as yet but still learning. Is these a vagcom manual some where showing me how to do the output tests, also I am not sure what you mean by checking the F34 could you please explain that one.

 

I will have a bash tomorrow and see how far I get, I just don't want to start pushing/clicking buttons on vagcom that I am not sure of.

 

Regards the ground checking on the dial connectors, yes, I only did a continuity test and not for resistance as I was not sure what readings to expect.

 

Thanks for your quick response bud.

Regards

[Mirez]

Hi

 

Thanks Mirez...Firstly, I am not that competent with Vagcom as yet but still learning. Is these a vagcom manual some where showing me how to do the output tests, also I am not sure what you mean by checking the F34 could you please explain that one.

 

I will have a bash tomorrow and see how far I get, I just don't want to start pushing/clicking buttons on vagcom that I am not sure of.

 

Regards the ground checking on the dial connectors, yes, I only did a continuity test and not for resistance as I was not sure what readings to expect.

 

Thanks for your quick response bud.

Regards

 

Not seen a manual for vagcom, the output test button is a simple to follow thing - just click and follow it though, you ahould complete all the steps to get back to the normal menu. Deffinately check the other modules for fault codes though.

 

F34 is Fuse 34 - from memory its the bottom right one in the fuse box.

 

Ground resistance would, in a perfect world, be 0ohm's however thats unlikely so the closest to 0 the better- set your meter to the lowest resistance setting and post back the findings...

[tona955]

OOOH, Goodie, some more stuff to try.

 

Thank you so very much Mirez, I am assuming my basic freebe version of Vagcom will let me do all that?

 

Regards

[tona955]

OK, I am unable to do the output test as that option requires the full version.

 

I have yet to check F34 and for resistance but connecting the Vagcom onto the car this morning showed up an error as listed below.

 

16885

Vehicle Speed Sensor - Implausible Signal

P0501 - 35 - 00

 

I have not had this before, could you tell me if this is referring to the speedo sensor on the gearbox or the CPS, the Crank Position Sensor and the Cam sensor were replaced last summer.

 

Regards

[zorgman]

its on the gearbox, you could try putting a new earth on the clocks multiplugs see if it works that the brown ones, plenty of metal behind clocks to get at for gnd

[tona955]

Damit! Now why did I not think of that, good call once again Zorgman...will try all suggestions tomorrow and get back on line.

 

Many thanks once again chaps.

[markleaver]

SAme problem as my Ford 1.9TDi Ghia, so far no complete solution. Ford couldn't find any fault in memory, but it blows Fuse #3 (5AMP). They took instrument cluster out, cleaned it and replaced it. Everything worked OK for 3 days then it blew again tonight (just when its gone dark and I'm off to airport early in morning - typical, can't even see if anything is amiss.

we are both chasing the same problem, so if anyone has fixed a similar problem let us know where that problem is likely to be (like a cable chafing as it passes over/through a bulkhead) or a bad connect somewhere.

This is a nightmare scenario, as otherwise after 190K+ the car has been ultra-reliable,

c'mon guys, someone somewhere must know something

[chrispb123456]

SAme problem as my Ford 1.9TDi Ghia, so far no complete solution. Ford couldn't find any fault in memory, but it blows Fuse #3 (5AMP). They took instrument cluster out, cleaned it and replaced it. Everything worked OK for 3 days then it blew again tonight (just when its gone dark and I'm off to airport early in morning - typical, can't even see if anything is amiss.

we are both chasing the same problem, so if anyone has fixed a similar problem let us know where that problem is likely to be (like a cable chafing as it passes over/through a bulkhead) or a bad connect somewhere.

This is a nightmare scenario, as otherwise after 190K+ the car has been ultra-reliable,

c'mon guys, someone somewhere must know something

Hi just been looking at that fuse 3, covers a lot of items including rear mirrors, maybe and I mean just maybe the drivers door trunking has some chafing causing that fuse to blow.

Have you had any problems with electric windows, central locking, or alarm recently?