CM2007

Thanks for the replies people. I'm hoping it's ARB bushes as this is a fairly easy job and bushes are cheap. If MOT was only done mid September and noise started in October, I'm thinking if it's ARB or CV joint it would have been picked up? I think I need to get it up on a ramp and have a little fiddle! Nice one people, as usual, quick and intelligent answers! Cheers Mike

It sounds like your transmission needs a damn good service. Autoboxes are fussy creatures which like things to be just right. I am a member of a BMW forum (my own car) and I would say over 50% of auto gearbox troubles I read about on there are cured with a service from an auto transmission specialist. Quite often the brake bands inside the box may need changing or simply tightening. I would try this first and go from there. Most places charge around

It sounds very viable that the servo is on it's way out. The hissing noise will be caused by an escape of the vacuum from the servo. You may be lucky enough that you have a vacuum leak elsewhere but the servo sounds the most likely cause. The servo assists the brakes by supplying a vacuum between the brake pedal and master cylinder which makes breaking easier,i.e. the vacuum does some of the work for you. The problem you face now is if you are still driving and it fails suddenly, the brake pedal will become very hard under braking and because you are used to applying the correct amount of pressure with your foot, if the assistance is removed, you will have to brake much harder which may catch you out causing an accident. I would get it checked ASAP. Mike

Hi all, I get a clonk when accelerating and turning, i.e. out of a junction. It's mainly when turning left though can sometimes happen when going right. I can feel it through the floor and pedals too, almost as if it's right under the footwell. It had an MOT in September and there was an advisory for the inner bushes on the triangular control arm for both sides so I'm guessing it's a possibility, I just haven't had chance to look yet. Just wondered if there is anything common I can look for, anti-roll bar links/bushes, ball joints etc? To me it just doesn't feel like a heavy enough clonk for it to be the control arms but I may be wrong. Cheers Mike

Hi all, got a good one for you! My Galaxy mk1 V6 misfires when idling and low revs. I had a misfire a few months back but this was under load. The more I accelerated, the more it missed. I found a couple of the HT leads to be arking out on the engine cover. I replaced the leads and spark plugs and all was well until the other day. The weird thing is, usually when ignition or fuelling components start to fail, the more load put on them the worse they get but strangely enough it's the opposite. The car misfires when idling and low rev acceleration but once you get going or really floor it, it runs like a dream. I'm toying with the idea of fuel filter (hasn't been changed in the year I've had the car) as a slight blockage may cause small amounts of fuel to be restricted but when it's pulled through quicker, it gets through ok. Just a thought! Any ideas? Cheers Mike

I know where you are coming from and don't worry, I didn't take offence! I work for Mercedes commercial vehicles which is totally different but to be honest, a chassis number helps get the right bit first time. Bit's migh look the same but in my 13 years experience, a part can change manufacturer, material or fixings which changes it depending on model and year. If I had a pound for the amount of times I've heard "they are all the same" when infact I proved the customerwrong, I'd have a much newer Galaxy! I always try and help the customer as much as possible though and if they don't have the info, I can hopefully still help. Mercedes customers a a lot tougher than Ford ones so I have to be on the ball! Mike

So that's all I have to ask for at the stealers, and the parts chap'll know immediately what I want? Any chance you can put the part number from the invoice please, just to be certain, you know what parts guys are like :) OY cheeky git, I'm a parts guy so tell me, what am I like? :) Anyway, all sorted now, the barrel was in about 8 pieces so the repair kit wouldn't do it but a new handle and barrel installed and 10 minutes later the car is back together and working once again! Cheers for your input guys Mike

Thanks for the reply chap. I forgot to say, the passenger lock is not one we have a key for! However when I disconnected then re connected the central locking in the drivers door (I had the window down at the time) the window automatically went up as if I was holding the key in the closed position (convenience closing, i.e. it shuts all windows as well as locks.) So I assumed when the lock barrel broke, the lock mechanism in the door was jammed in the closed position. I fiddled about with the little lever on the mechanism and managed to un-jam it and now the passenger and drivers side door will open but not the rears. I'm just hoping that if I get the new barrel tomorrow I can sort it all out. Mike

The door lock on my mkI Galaxy has been jamming up every so often in the last few months. I lubed it which seemed to help until today. My wife said the lock was starting to feel a little stiff when turning though it wasn't jamming. I went out to have a look at it this evening, tried turning the key a few times then suddenly PING! the whole barrel went really loose and wouldn't unlock the door at all but it still actuated the central locking on all other doors. I had to leave it for my dinner but when I went back to try again, the lock turns all the way round over and over and now I can't actuate the central locking at all. The boot has a different key so I can get in there but when I try all the interior handles, none of them will open from the inside???? It's almost as if all the doors are locked and cannot be unlocked at all because the drivers door lock is broken. I had already taken off the door card and can now see the lock barrel has collapsed and is now not connected to the lock mechanism at all but still fail to undrstand why I cannot get any of the doors open from the inside and I have tried all 4. If I can just get the car unlocked, my wife can use it tomorrow (she doesn't need to leave it so it'll be ok!) and I can order a new handle/barrel assembly. Any ideas on how I get the car unlocked? Many thanks Mike

Not touching the gearbox for 4 years is almost as bad as not servicing the engine! Get the fluid replaced then keep on top of it, checking levels regularly. Mike

Hi Mary, thanks for the reply. When I was sorting a gearbox leak a couple of months back, I did notice a small leak coming from around this area so I think perhaps you are correct. I imagine it's just a rubber gasket seal and as long as I can get to it easy enough it should be a breeze. Cheers Mike P.S. Nice dog in the pic, is it a GSD? I have two myself and they are great fun, also, is your sierra the mk1 cosworth? I bet it's worth a mint! it's nice to see a few of the classics still about.

Hi all, my 2.8 V6 has an oil leak. It's quite a bad one as I spotted a puddle on the drive and checked the oil, it was only just touching the very tip of the dipstick! not good! I won't have a chance to look at it till next weekend but I just wondered if there was a common place where these would leak? I can't see anything when looking from the top but peeking in a tiny gap at the front of the engine cover, I think I can see a wet area around the lower front somewhere. It appears to be higher up than the sump so I don't think it's the sump gasket. Any ideas so I at least know what to look for when I get her up on the ramp next week? Cheers Mike

That was my fear! oh well, I know a guy with the software, I guess I'll be buying him a beer anytime soon! Cheers Mike

Whatever position I put the knob on, the air will only blow on the screen. I'm guessing it's all done by cable? Anyone know how to fit a new cable? If it's a pig of a job I'll probably leave it but if it's simple it's worth doing! Cheers Mike

Oil is THE most important thing you'll ever put in your car so don't go for cheap rubbish. Synthetic is a must and I think you'll find Ford recommend 5w30 which is the same oil recommended for my V6 Galaxy and my V8 BMW, I use Fuchs titan supersyn 5w30 and it's about

Thanks for the input Dipsomaniac, very useful. I wouldn't have known about the HT leads and would have probably damaged them cheers! My own can takes 5w30 and I can get it cheap though work so thats good. Any ideas on the engine oil filling capacity? I'm guessing around 6 litres for a V6 as my V8 takes about 7.5 Lastly, any tips for renewing the coolant? My BMW is a pig to bleed after re-filling so is there a bleed screw I should know about? Many thanks once again Mike

I have a 2.8 V6 auto... When I bought the Galaxy it came with no service history (it's rather clean and I got it very cheap so don't laugh!) it's got 92,000 on the clock and next week I'm going to give it a full service of all filters and fluids. I'm after any tips anyone has as to special tools needed, awkward places to get to, how to's etc. I'm a competent DIY mechanic and work in a garage so have acess to ramps and tools. What oil does it take for the engine and rear diff? Can anyone tell me where the fuel filter is located? Anything else I need to know? Lastly, is there a Haynes manual or similar available for this model? Many thanks in advance Mike

Thanks for that. I was sure it had to be something like that so I'll take her apart at the weekend and have a good look. I saw the guy who did the sideplate on the gearbox take the battery tray and other bits out with little difficulty so I'll identify the leak then fix it when I service it next week. Cheers Mike

Hi folks, hope someone can shed some light.... I bought the galaxy a few monts ago and noticing it had a (or so I thought!) gearbox leak and heavy corrosion on the side of the autobox, I decided to replace the side plate on the box. The plate was corroded badly and you could almost push your finger under the lip where the gasket sits. The problem is, the red fluid is still dripping off the side of the box!! My question is, are there any part of the power steering system on the right hand side (as you look at the front of the car) of the engine bay. I have a '96 2.8 V6 and there is little room to see anything and I don't relish taking it apart until I'm sure there is something hidden which may be leaking still. The p/s fluid reservoir perhaps? Cheers Mike

I have the same problem with my remote. Have tried the procedure for early and late models (I have a 1995 model) and I can't even get it to do step one. From reading a previous post I have concluded that there was a new control unit fitted and never programmed. So my wife is destined to be left in the rain a bit longer too, especially as she has to get 3 kids in and out of the car. Worse when you are in a busy car park and you have to turn and leave the kids for a few seconds while locking the car! Mike

I reckon it's quite possible. If the exhaust is not working correcly it will almost certainly be failing on emissions, especially if it's affecting the cat. If the lambda sensor in the cat isn't recieving the correct signals (i.e. incorrect emissions) it can send wrong info to the egine and cause rough running. The exhaust being loose and coupled with the rough running could be your 'hammering' noise. HTH Mike

Cheers jimjamjo, I managed to get a picture from fords. I got them to fax me a copy of their parts pictures to my work. I have identified which bits I need. Thanks Mike

When I bought the Galaxy the guy had just broken the sunroof. A lorry had flicked up a stone and 'CRACK' the damn thing shattered. He had already ordered a new one but hadn't had time to fit it. I took it upon myself to fit the replacement myself. Just in case you ever have to do it, here's how I did it. All roof handles were removed using a cross head screwdriver, two screws per handle. (screws can be found under little flip up caps at either end of handle). http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n17/mofo69fu2/DSC00131.jpg Once these were removed the little lights underneath each handle (in the middle and rear row of seats only) just pull out of their apeture and just squeeze the plug at either side to release the clips and pull the plug from the light. http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n17/mofo69fu2/DSC00132.jpg The sunvisors were next. Simply unscrew the hinge from the roof (1 crosshead screw for each visor) then unplug the connection for the vanity mirror lamp, same as before, squeeze clips and pull. On the other side of each visor is the clip which holds it up to the roof, again, one single crosshead screw per side. Next came the centre section which houses the front interior lights, sunroof switches and clock. Firstly use a flathead screwdriver to gently tease the light/roofswitch unit from the plastic surround. It pulls out quite easily with little force, just tease the edges with the screwdriver while gently pulling. Once this is out you will see two torx (star) shaped screws (my fingers are pointing to them below) http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n17/mofo69fu2/DSC00134.jpg Once these are out you can pull the plastic surround back towards you. It is hooked over the edge of the roof lining where the sunroof is and once you pull it back you will see the sunroof motor. http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n17/mofo69fu2/DSC00133.jpg You will see the sunroof trim which goes around the aperture and holds the roof lining to the sunroof section. This needs to come off and simply pulls off all the way around http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n17/mofo69fu2/DSC00135.jpg Next comes the fiddly bits! All the trims around the doors and the pillar trims all hold the roof lining. Firstly the A pillar (windscreen) trims need to come off. If you are able to, try and get your fingers into the top of the trim and pull increasing the force until it pops free. You only need to top part of the trim to come off. Then the window trims need to be prised back to release the roof lining http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n17/mofo69fu2/DSC00136.jpg As you peel back the trim (as in the picture) you need to pull the roof lining past the trim. The best way is to edge along the trim with one hand and get your fingers behind the roof lining then to release it from the trim. This method applies to the front and rear door trims. Next you need to pull off the B pillar (front seatbelt) trims. Same again but you will need to slide the seatbelt adjusters fully down. http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n17/mofo69fu2/DSC00137.jpg They only need to pop off the clips to allow them to be pulled down enough for the roof lining to be pulled past it. I found that once the roof lining was down as far as the back of the rear doors I had enough access to reach the roof. This is a bit of a catch 22 as the roof lining did crease a little bit as it was coming down because the lining is restricted by the B pillar trims. As I only paid

Hi all, I wondered if anyone has got an exploded diagram of the auto box on a mk1 V6? I am looking to replace the side plate which has badly corroded and want to see how easy (or not) it is to get to and possibly what I'll need at the same time. Many thanks Mike

Five Germans in an Audi Quattro arrive at the Italian border. An Italian police officer stops them and says: "Itsa illegala to putta five-a people in a Quattro!" "Vot do you mean, it's illegal?" the German driver asks. "Quattro means a four!" the policeman answers. "Quattro iz just ze name of ze fo**en automobile" the German shouts..."Look at ze dam paperz: Ze car is dezigned to carry 5 people!" "You canta pulla thata one on me!" says the Italian policeman. "Quattro meansa four. You havea five-a people ina your car and you are therefore breaking the law!" The German driver gets mad and shouts "You ideeiot! Call ze zupervizor over! Schnell! I vant to spik to zumvun viz more intelligence! !!" "Sorry" the Italian says, "He canta comea . He'sa buzy witha two guys in a Fiat Uno." :rolleyes: Mike