seatkid

The nut is on the inside of the box section unfortunately.

That sounds like a good "pitmatic" solution.

Yup.....that one passed me by! :unsure: The rust on the drivers outer wing - basically draw a horizontal line from just below the liner fastener. Everything below that was rust,and on the inner section rust came back to the edge you can see in your bottom photo. All I could do is use screwdrivers to remove the flaky bits and a swiss file to remove some of the looser surface stuff. The passenger side was a lot less of a mess (but still rusty at the bottom), the difference probably down to the 3mm pebble wedged in the drain hole on the drivers side. As for the cross member, I'm afraid it was wire brushing and a bit of hand filing. Lots of welds and weld splashes in that area. If I had a grinder (which I dont), quite fraknly I'd be a bit frightened to do more harm than good. The rust was remarkably difficult to shift and there was still obviously something sound beneath it (I hope), I wonder is this due to the galvanising? Anyway hammerite "apply direct to rust" is about as far as I prepared to go at the moment. I only did the drivers side crossmember - the other side I just sealed the splits and cracks and will look further after my hols, hopefully that side will be less of a shock.

Conundrum - how do you fit 7 people AND their luggage/toys/buggy/kitchen sink into a Shalaxy and still have room to move and be comfortable for 3000 miles of european motoring. Do I really need a roof box? :unsure: 1) do P&O North Sea ferries have height restrictions? 2) whats the maximum (or legal) safe speed I can expect to travel without it suddenly being ripped off and killing dozens of other motorists behind me. 3) Are they noisy and do they reduce the mpg by 50%? 4) what the maximum weight of luggage I can expect to carry on the roof (bear in mind the roof box and fixing parafania all weigh) 5) Are there any insurance issues I should be aware of? 6) where do I store the bloody thing? 7) will I lose a lot of money if I sell it on ebay after the "grand tour"? 8) Any suggestions for a good quality but still affordable solution (inc bars)

good suggestion, not thought of that one...

:( Like me, the old girl is showing inevitable signs of old age. She'll soon be 13 years old and, from a distance, the VW salesman said "it looks in exceptional condition" and so I also thought,that is, until I started the "big service/inpection/repair anything dodgy before we go on the grand trans european tour" that somehow I found myself agreeing to (long story - wont bore you but how exactly will I get 7 people and their luggage in and be comfortable?) It started with checking the spare tyre winch.. :( what a mess.... again. This time stripped off all that useless plastic coating on the tyre holder bit , cleaned it as best I could including the main winch housing - loads of rust on the trailing arms and that bit that goes in the middle - wire brushes galore!! Then a few coats of hammerite smooth (spray) and where appropriate (body) some spray on underseal Plastic coated steel is such a naff idea - it just cracks with age, allows water in and rusts 10 times as fast! Same story with both front and rear anti roll bars. Off with the rear plastic wheel arch protectors to reveal yet more rust - not too much - but wish I'd done this several years ago, just a touch of sealer on those welded joints and all would have been well forever and a day. Those mounting plates for the rear suspension are very handy for your dealer/kwikfit to jack up your car - but the price you end up paying is "loads of rust", yes they are quite thick but oh, how I wished I just sprayed these every 3 or 4 years.... The worst is yet to come however - I already knew that the front suspension is typically volkswagen naff - highly thin on paint/protection. I'd already made one or two attempts at tidying it up, but once again, after removing the wheel arch liners for the first time - horror of horrors - deep seated rust for the last 3 or 4 inches of wing and its mating bodywork panel. The reason is clear...bad design and poor protection. Those drain holes up in the scuttle area, let all sorts of stuff through and a mere 3mm pebble is all it takes to block up the tiny improvised drain down below, allowing a build up of muck and silt to build up and eat its way through the galvanising. Impossible to clean up where the panels join up - I just have to have some faith in the rust defeating properties of hammerite.... Yes, make sure you stick a large screwdriver up those bottom holes everytime you clean and flush your drains (and do it at least 4 times a year) - if only I had done this.... And finally, the grand finale......we all probably know that underseal is a bad idea - when it cracks it allows water in and there it sits and festers.... But we would have thought that the manufacturers had superior technology? Errrm......no. :) Whats that thin line of rust on the front crossmember? The bit where some plate is welded on? The bit your garage and kwikfit use to jack up the car (when they dont feel inclined to bend your sills). :unsure: Hmmm, just ease back the body underseal......What???....bit more.....WHAT???....more and more.....WELL BLOODY HELL :angry: ..ALMOST HALF THE CROSS MEMBERS IS RUST (the underside bit )....not yet structurally critical (they are quite thick)...but what a bloody disappointment. And what an effort to tidy it up, knowing full well its all in vain....for once rust has got hold at this level, its just a matter of time. All I can do is slow it down a bit. :ph34r: Sorry if I've bored you ( wait until you hear me going on about the new Sharan and how at first sight it looks no better that a Mk 1 (and probably no better built) MORAL OF THIS STORY? No matter how fastidious you are, VW group cars are designed to start falling to pieces after 10 years. Bad plastics and poor bodywork design and protection or is it a deliberate ploy to get you buy a new one?

I've been working for 4 or 5 days getting the old girl ready for another trans-european tour, and in my haste I overtightened the nearside back bolt that holds up the undertray - stripping most of the nut - which of course is welded inside the bodywork chassis member. I've effected a "temporary" repair by using a longer 8mm plain bolt -the original had a tapered end and put on some thread locking compound (blue - low strength) in the hope it'll hold onto the few threads that are left (probably only 2 or so). As a precaution to the bolt somehow falling out, I've duck taped the area, to stop it falling down at 90mph on the autobahn, possibly taking out my front/rear tyre. What way to repair this damage? I could tap the nut out to 10mm but I dont have a 10mm tap and dont really want a 10mm bolt - I might have to open up the hole in the undertray. Drill out and fit an insert? Come to think about it, I have a selection of nutserts but they are for sheet metal..... Any expert suggestions to a proper solution. (but it has to be cheap) Thanks....

If its a petrol model, check the faq regarding relay 30, (fuel pump relay)

It could be just down to low gas. Kwikfit, charlie browns etc do a re-gas for

p1131 is usually associated with the O2 sensor (aka lambda probe), showing too lean mixture. However you said you changed the O2 sensor. Whoever didnt fit the sensor (wiring) correctly should be responsible for any subsequent expenditure. If it was a garage, and they or you did any work after the sensor change, then I would be seeking compensation from them.

Obvious that your air con man knew nothing about Galaxy a/c as the "idle valve" is just BS. The galaxy is fitted with a 3 way pressure switch. This is a lo - normal - hi device. If there is too little pressure (low gas) or too much pressure (overfilled) it will inhibit the compressor clutch from engaging. There are two quantities of R134a gas printed on the label in the engine (near the bonnet latch) - the higher amount is only for cars fitted with two air con evaporators (not to be confused with the standard dual zone system) - these are very rare - it only applies to those cars that have roof vents in the back of the car (and only one electric opening rear quarter light due to the air duct pipework) Its common for "air con men" to confuse this information and overfill the system, so triggering the high pressure switch for protection. I fairly sure there is also a fuse that should be checked.

Unfortunately a lot of dealers/garages/servicing outlets are the same. An expensive service stamp - which - technically - is fraudulent as a main service was not carried out. Not only was the pollen filter, air filter and spark plugs not changed, you can assume they didn't carry out any inspection jobs (a long list on the service sheet) including safety critical brake examination and fluid checks. A main service should also have the mandatory diagnostic check, not forgetting the windscreen washer topup! I would have refused to pay and insisted on talking directly to the dealer principal. I would be prepared to threaten to report them to trading standards/Ford etc, at which point they might probably drop into damage limitation mode and give you the full service (rebooked of course) FOC - with evidence.

Before anyone can comment you have to tell us what engine and year. If its a petrol engine - sounds like the idle control valve sticking - needs cleaning.

Always grateful for DIY how to guides. This one is great as it has comprehesive and great pictures. Thankyou sal_park!!! MODS....Could this be added to Tech FAQ?

I wonder if the aux heater is kicking in and not switching off?

Air leak at manifold? Check brake vac pipe to manifold.

I agree it sounds as if one of the cables to one side has gone - the illusion of it starting to work is probably just holding on one disc.

What a wuss...... If the bolt head is undamaged and the socket is a good tight fit and the socket is close to the bar (i.e. not on a long extension) then stand on the end of the bar or If its a steel wheel (don't do this with an alloy) - apply heat to the bolt - avoid the wheel. The bolt should expand and loosen. or Take it to your local kwik fit or other tyre centre and let them do it with their air tools. (If its cross threaded none of the above will work......)

I find your comment about space hard to believe. I looked around recently at the new Alhambra and also its cousin Sharan. I was shocked to find, that despite its mammoth external dimensions, that inside, the middle row and particularly the back row was smaller/tighter than my Mk 1. This obsession with folding seats into the floor seemed to be a major factor. Looking at a Touran, that was a joke, a low rent shoebox. For 2 adults and 5 small kids only. Plus no spare tyre and piddling boot. The new Sharan/Alhambra boot is also a joke. Although its some years since I've been in a Zafira, externally its the size of a Touran. I wouldnt consider buying another Vauxhall after my costly and disastrous flirt with an "awarding winning" diesel Corsa. Vauxhalls seem to me to be cars with no soul (if you know what I mean).

The TDi is so efficient that very little heat is produced whilst idling. Its possible that even after 15mins idle you dont get the water over 50 deg C (the point at which the gauge starts to move). Remember also the galaxy has 7 litre water capacity with front and rear heater. So take it for a run and it should reach 50 deg after about 2 - 3 miles in my experience. Normal (90 deg) can take another 2 - 5 miles depending on outside temp.

vehicle certification is only 7 seater, highly unlikely any insurance company will accept it as 8 seat conversion.

Top 2 symbols are "dipped beam bulb" blown indicators - if you have non standard bulbs eg after market HIDs or wrong wattage then these will also cause the indicators to light. Bottom 2 are rear light cluster bulb blown indicators (parking or braking light), these normally come on when the ignition is first turned on and extinguish when you press the foot brake.

Dont confuse PATS (passive anti theft system or immobiliser) with remote locking - two different things. All galaxys have a small transponder chip built into all keys, be they remote type or normal. If you get another key fob normal or remote, the chip/car has to be coded to accept each other, otherwise the immobiliser (ECU) will not allow you to start the engine. PATS coding can only be done by a dealer (expensive) If you have a remote key fob (with batteries), then you can access/remove the PATS chip and put it in another remote key fob. On the other hand a remote keyfob can also be programmed by the user to operate the central locking. (Actually its the car thats programmed to accept the remote fob) - this however is a separate function from the immobiliser.

AFAIK all PD engines (post 2000) including the 90bhp model have VNT turbos.