seatkid

No. The reprogramming in the FAQ refers to the remote locking function only and this works by programming the car to accept a new remote fob. For a key to be able to start the car it needs a PATS chip that is programmed to the ECU. This is the immobiliser. Programming of the PATS can only be done with special equipment. Dealers have this, but also some locksmiths do. Do a search of the forums and you will find out more.

The spare key needs a PATS chip (for the immobiliser) which can only be reprogrammed by a dealer (£££) or a locksmith with special equipment. Some blanks (e.g. some on fleabay) may not come with PATS chips and you need to buy this separately. There is a PATS chip in every key - dont confuse this with remote locking.

OK the non working key - you can try to change the batteries (there are 2 cells) - take extreme care not to lose the PATS chip when you open the key - its a small elongated cube that fits in near the blade end of the head. If you lose that then you wont be able to start the car (with that key). So do on a clean surface like a table top.. If it still doesnt work, you can attempt to reprogram the car to the key - the instructions are probably in the FAQ or try a search. If you can hear your rear washer pump working, then the pipe will have become detached somewhere. Apart from the passenger footwell, the other favourite place is in the tailgate IIRC. Again a search will pull up more details. Oh, and welcome to the forum......

Locks and Wiper are likely to be broken wires in the flexible rubber gaitors to the door and tailgate. See FAQ 31 and 44 If the water pump is working - check for a wet passanger footwell - this is due to the water pipe joint coming apart under the carpet - also in the FAQ Elaborate on non working key - do mean remote locking not working or unable to start the car (immobiliser)?

Hope it doesn't involve a Ouija board.... :D

As you have hard evidence of a pre existing serious problem that was not brought to your attention at the time of sale then you have the right to reject the vehicle out of hand and demand a full refund plus compensation. You could accept the garages offer to repair, but I think they need to compensate you fully and give you alternative vehicle during the period it is being repaired. I would only be happy if this was a main dealer repair. Head repairs are not always successful long term and may have other consequences. If the car had been chipped (95% certain) then a lot of components have been stressed to beyond their normal limits including engine blocks, clutches, gearboxes and transmissions. I personally think anyone who chips their car is a w*nker, and those who hide it from their insurance and any purchaser ought to be had for fraud. From the end of 2011, it will be illegal to chip cars (EU directive) and it remains to be seen if the MOT will pick these things up as they will be obliged to do.

You have to, in law, give them a chance to repair it if thats what they want to do. There is a time limit and a limit to how many attempts they can have. If they are going to collect and fix everthing with a decent warranty (minimum of 3 months - demand a 12 month warranty on the the repairs) - then should be OK. Keep reminding them of your recovery costs - I don't think its unreasonable for them to cover them in some way (a free service in the future perhaps) If the head is cracked (it requires a new head) or the head gasket is blown, then in all probability a previous owner has had the car remapped or fitted a tuning box. The problem was probably there when they traded in and they fleeced the garage.

Judging by the overwhelming silence.......Obviously not......

Read this They sold you a pup that broke down seriously on its first trip, incurring you large extra costs just to have it recovered. As it is most likely a head problem, (water pumps dont break after 1200 miles and the foamy soap look implies exhaust gas has entered the cooling system), it is potentially a £1500+ job. Therefore you are entitled to a full refund and claim extra compensation. If they dont agree, either seek legal advice or bang in a "small claim" through the county court.

Some diesels have two seperate switches, others use a dual combined switch. All diesels have the twin setup, one side used for brakes, other goes to ecu and one of its functions is CC release but there are other functions too, so even models without cc have this setup. It common for the switch to fail.

Just phone the garage and tell them to take it back and demand your money backin full plus compensation. First trip - it must have been faulty when they sold it to you. DO NOT DO ANY REPAIRS - IT IS THE SELLERS PROBLEM.

Yes AFAIK there is a deadlock which is electrically operated (or can be overided electrically). You can disengage the deadlock by operating the lock (in the "lock doors" direction) a couple of seconds after you lock the door. The indicators will flash twice to acknowledge that deadlocking is off (as well as the alarm). Looks as if you may need to remove the door card. Dont know if it can be removed with the door closed, I think I read someone has done this, but not sure.

First thing to check is your battery and its state of charge. Then move on to the starter motor - check for voltage going to the solenoid when the key is turned to the start position.

Maybe a vacuum supply to cruise control, which may not be fitted to your car. In that case it should be blocked off.

Have you tried opening from the inside or operating the central locking from the passenger side or tailgate?

Do a search and look at the FAQ regarding MAF sensor.

First thing you should check is the oil filter. I'm not familiar with the V6, but I assume its a spin on cannister type that sits facing out or tilted downwards. Run your finger under it - if its covered in oil then the leak is probably at the filter gasket. Its not uncommon for these to leak either because they weren't tightened enough or just because of a bad sealing ring. Unfortunately, once they start to leak, if you tighten the filter, its 50/50 if it stops the leak or not, some never do. A new filter is the only solution. I have read that occasionally the oil filter housing (the bit on the engine that the filter screws to) can spring a leak where its fits to the block. Recommended procedure (you're going to have to do this even if you found and fixed the leak as there'll be lots of oil under the car.) 1. Remove the engine undertray (if ones fitted) - that'll be floating in oil and will need cleaning - lots of kitchen roll/rags followed by a good cleaner (I recommend Swarfega vehicle cleaner from www.toolstation.com) 2. Crawl under the car and start cleaning under the engine - starting from the sump and working up. It maybe obvious where the oil is leaking whilst you're doing this. If the leak is bad, then its probably coated a good proportion of the underside of the car too. 3. Without refitting the undertray, Drive around a bit. Then crawl back under and look.

Don't forget to check the fuse first!

Two tail lights per side - a 5w bulb and a 5W/21W bulb (the 21W bit is the stop light) As gregers, carefully pull back the rubber boot and theres probably a broken wire (or worse).

Have you checked the brake fluid level and the connection to the brake level fluid sensor (on the cap of the brake fluid reservoir)?

Idling at 1300 rpm sounds like a temperature sensor problem - the ECU thinks its cold and increases the idle speed. There are many different sensor variations (different colours) and if you use the wrong sensor it just wont work. The struggling uphill is a classic MAF sensor symptom. It is important to get the correct MAF sensor for your engine variant - every variant uses a different sensor. As it pulls "like a train" to 2300 rpm its sounds as if the turbo + vacuum system is working. Also check your air filter is not blocked or there is a leak in the air pipework after the MAF as they cause the same problem. You need to get rid of those faults, thats whats holding the ECU back. On the 1Z engine I think the faults should clear automatically when you get good sensor readings, however its possible you need to "clear" them with VAGCOM.

Please dont start multiple threads about the same problem. As pointed out in the other thread you either have a 2.8 V6 or a 2.3 4cyl, we need to know which. First thing you should check is for air leaks at the inlet manifold. This could be due to a split in the vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold to the brake servo.

One blind hole?

Follow that stiff plastic vacuum line from the vacuum pump in LH pic round up to near the fuel filter (RH pic). There should be a small plastic one way valve in line whith this with the other side continuing round the back of the engine to the brake servo. The one way valve has a small side pipe attached - this, I think is the vacuum feed to the turbo control system..... You wont hear the turbo if its in reasonable condition, just a mild whoosh and a lot more power. Dont forget that in addition to all the vacuum pipes, make sure that the boost pipework is also securely fitted and you dont have a hole in your intercooler (small long rad under the main rad)

You probably lost the PATS chip when you opened the key to change the batteries - they are prone to fall out. PATS chip PATS in the key head Programming PATS requires specialist equipment and cannot be done by us mortals.