seatkid

No I've not done this, in fact I didnt really need to top mine up at all, it only takes a very small amount to go from bottom of the dipstick to the top.....basically if its still registering on the dipstick and its clean, its OK Unless you have a definite problem, i.e. PAS not working or disintegrating, there is no point in changing the fluid, you will probably end up causing problems.....only change the oil if you have had any repairs done to the PAS system.

I bought this many many moons ago from my VW dealer, it a clear, slightly golden colour Reading up, its seems that G002000 is the official VW spec, (possibly G004000 is a newer more recent spec). Lots of warning not to mix/use other oils (usually red) as it buggers up the seals and other things. Stick to the correct spec oil, look for "G002000" on the can....

Wrong forum, try the MK3 forum.

Another great advert for Fleabay. :19: How much did that cheap crap really cost you? And be thankful it only slipped one or two notches - anymore and it would be byebye engine. Sue the supplier for selling substandard parts (probably chinese copies)

They say a sucker is born every minute.

Sometimes the wires break without the insulation coming apart or at the pillar connector without dropping off. A thorough inspection is required, otherwise its door panel off time and a multimeter......

I think you can use the passenger lock instead of the drivers. No seperate fuse that I'm aware of. Comment: Your remote fob is about the age when they die, even though the LED flashes on the fob, something internal goes (first it becomes erratic operation before giving up the ghost completely) - I suspect long term frequency shift. The only way to fix is get a new fob - easier said than done - it has to be the exact correct type (freque3ncy etc)

Check F13 and F34 - both 10amp

1. the key barrel may have stuck/seized in the open position, insert a key and use moderate force (dont break the key!) to see if you can move the barrel mechanically full left/right (beyond the normal narrow electrically operated range), some penetrating oil may help. 2. Remove the tailgate panel, and you should be able to sus the problem from within. One possibility is there is a permanenent feed to the solenoid, in this case its likely to be a short in the loom in one of the two rubber gaitors to the tailgate.(shorts are common here see Tech FAQs)

On a Mk2, IIRC, if the heater fails to start 3 times in a row, it will lock out and you need to reset the fault code (using VAGCOM/VCDS or a very expensive dealer) before the heater will attempt another go. Thats probably happened to you, but of course there would be a reason for the non start in the first place e.g. glowplug, metering pump etc etc. An £8 VAGCOM/VCDS cable from fleabay would be a wise investment

1.Wires in the gaitor- due to the quality of cable used, the insulation goes brittle where it flexes, it cracks and allows air to the copper wire, which corrodes on exposure to air along with humidity and chemicals from the insulation. A visual inspection will soon find the faulty wires - they are usually broken apart or the insulation is falling off/crazed leaving the core (usually oxidised) exposed. These faulty wires need to be snipped back to good wire on both sides and a new piece spliced in. Because of the lack of space, soldering in a new piece with flexible rubber sleeving to protect the joints is probably the best solution. 2. The looms are bound in fabric tape (or gloppy old black tape as you put it) - not individual wires though....The wires in the gaitors are not bound in tape, but are free to allow flexing. 3 No such thing as magic contact spray. To remove light corrosion its best to use a toothbrush and brake cleaning solvent (£2.50 for a spray can from toolstation). Dont scratch with a screwdriver - this will remove the contact material which is a thin layer of a precious metal - leading to a permanently poor connection.

Here's a diagram showing location of various bits and bobs on 2.0/2.3L petrol engines

No idea. Didnt even think the petrol had EGR.

That indicates that the problem is with the temperature sensor. As its jumping about, its probably a loose connector. The sensor is mounted at the back of the engine. see here http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/11854-mk2-water-temp-sensor/&do=findComment&comment=98280 The ecu alters the fuelling with reported temperature and so the idle speed varies.

HO2S Sensor is the Lambda Sensor mounted in the exhaust downpipe ahead of the catalytic converter. Check you didnt damage the wiring or pull the connector when poking around for the EGR.

Totally agree, "backbleeding" is totally contrary to all accepted practices and is almost guaranteed to damage/block ABS units, pressure limiters and master cylinder seals by forcing the corrosion from the caliper piston back through the system.

Hope you kept the original relay then!

Think you better look at that relay 109

I would say two possibilities 1) Throttle Position sensor (TPS) - its mounted on the accelerator pedal. They are known to go intermittent, they are a dual device and fail when one side doesnt agree with the other (its a a dual track potentiometer). Usual symptom is loss of foot pedal control and engine speed defaulting to 1300-1500 rpm. On the MK1, you lose the pedal control and the glow plug light flashes to indicate a fault until the ignition is turned off - which is a bit silly and dangerous. Not sure but on your Mk2 its possible theyve improved the software by restoring pedal control immediately the sensor is working (both tracks agree). IIRC They cost around £60 from a dealer. 2) Intermittent connection to the engine temperature sensor might lead to changes in idle speed? (not sure)

Obviously, if the filter is on the wrong way, dont attempt to turn it around but just bin and fit a new one.

nothing much as in you couldnt get any fuel out? is the filter installed correctly? - not back to front? looking from the front towards the rear of the engine, the T piece should be on the left of the filter. When you changed the T-piece did you check it had an O ring fitted? (some versions have 2)

tdci? Is this a mk2 (1.9) or a mk3(1.8)

First just check your battery is holding up now that glowplugs are working - i.e. the voltage isnt plumetting during starts. I would concentrate on two areas: 1. You mentioned large air bubbles in the fuel line - whats the history of the fuel filter (i.e. last changed when?) air is being drawn in somewhere - the favourite being the T-piece on the filter and a dislodged or missing O ring or the filter might just be blocked/full of water. 2. If the clicking is the stop solenoid in the fuel pump, then look at the main power relay K198 on the 2nd level of the fuse box, sometimes known to give intermittent problems. (also known as relay 109 ??? I dont know for sure) http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/22772-the-oft-mentioned-relay-109-photos-included/?hl=%22relay+109%22

Checking the TIS there are two possibilities 1) The garage fitted a fuse greater the the correct 5amp 2) You have a wiring loom short. Given the earlier symptoms, its probably a short in the wiring loom Heres the cct diagram

Check the glowplug circuit F32 - 3 amp - this feeds the coil of the Glowplug Relay F74 - 60 amp - this feeds the Glowplug Relay main contacts K70 - is the Glowplug Relay All in the fusebox under the drivers dash (F32 first level, F74,K70 on 3rd level I think) see below