niallsan

Hi Working from memory!!!! I believe its a number 12 size triple square or splined bit. I believe its a 30mm socket for the hub bolt. Not 100pc sure about wishbone- guessing I'd say size 8mm allen bit? N

Not sure about the result of this thread but some of the questions asked here are answered in this thread:- My link Niall Hi, digging up an old thread here now, but how did this story end? Did you get your heater running again?

Would you be interested in posting your bad controller to Ireland to me so I could mess with it. I fixed my own controller but it was a ' dosing/metering pump short to ground' error on mine?!?!?!? I could pay you the postage? N

What was the original eber controller error on vagcom? N

Check out the link for a bench test of a D5Z-F aux heater:- Fuel pump purchased from dieselheaters2u N

Hi there everybody. I'm looking for a working fuel metering pump for an eberspacher 5wz-f auxiliary heater. Prepared to spend €25 or equiv. in GBP- that's including postage to Ireland. Thanks N

Hi, To be honest I dogged the board a bit to get it out. I desoldered the board as best I could with a 'pace' desoldering machine we have in work, so it made it a bit easier. It takes a lot of heat to remove the solder from some of the pins/wires, particularly the ground/power planes! It would desolder with braid/wick as well, if you have it? When I levered out the board from the housing I broke the electrolytic cap off by accident! I just replaced it with a similar type. I think this cap was buried in the goop making it harder to remove the board. A circuit diagram might be a bit of a stretch! If I have time some time when I'm working nights I might have a go at it. I'll try and identify some of the components by part number as well. I can get the unit to fire on the bench, only using a syringe with some fuel in it( by the way, it will burn kerosene as well!), because I haven't found a cheap fuel metering pump yet. I connected a relay to the metering pump output just to simulate its operation. It starts clicking and lasts for about 20 clicks but then stops? So I'm not sure if thats correct or not. There is a very good website, describing eber operation etc...Useful eber info N.

I had this same problem of rear tyre wear on the inside. I replaced the bushes mentiones above, which wer maybe 15 quid for all 4. I believe it has fixed the problem?? Def improved matters anyway? Socket set and a car jack all thats required. Very little weight on these bushes, just jack up the car slightly, as far as I can remember? N.

Yip, I'd say it's the inner cv joint , could be either left or right. I believe its more cost effective (and will remove the need to replace the outer cvs in the future) to replace the complete driveshaft. If the mechanic grabs the inner end of the shaft and can move it ,even a fraction- cv is pooped! N

Ya that's the D5z-F. I didn't find any specific problem but when I plug the heater back into the car loom there is no -dosing pump short to ground -error, anymore?? Dunno what happened to fix/get rid of the short. I traced the dosing pump circuit back as much as I could. The microprocessor sends a signal to the driver IC which drives 12v to the dosing pump. There is something funny with the grounding of the controller/heater. The case of the heater seems to be isolated from the car body, ie.. there is no continuity between the chassis and the heater body? I might try grounding the heater- see what happens??? I would like to get a dosing pump and a water pump someplace so I can try it off of the car. Anyone out there have a dosing and water pump going really cheap! I had to replace the brushes on the aux water pump as well!! A couple of makita brushes sanded down fit nicely. Used the '2mm drill bit through the pump casing trick', to keep the brushes back(described elsewhere on the forum). All thanks to the knowledge and experience of the good people on this forum. I would be lost without it- or blissfully ignorant!!!!! N.

I had a big interesting story typed out but when I went to attach a picture it disappeared. So here are the pics of the inside of an Eberspacher control unit de-gooped- for anyone interested????The blue and green wires are my own creations. Removed from shell Top side Bottom side

Got this from another post http://www.machinema...rnator-tool-set I took my alternator into the local vw dealer and he replaced the pulley for €75. The cost of the pulley was €75 and he fitted it for free?!?!?!?! Maybe you could do the same? rgds N

It's def a job you can do. You will need a size 12 triple-square(spline) bit. Comes in a kit normally- try ebay or local auto factors. I got mine in an army surplus shop. This is needed to remove the inner cv joint from the final drive. Allen keys(hex keys). A torque wrench, one that goes up to 100N. A socket set, I think the hub bolt is a size 30mm? 2 replacement hub bolts. These sometimes come with the driveshafts. I just replaced the inner cv on both shafts. I got these from Poland- motomax.pl Not the cheapest but they work. I didn't want to replace both shafts. As it turns out its not that difficult!! The offside(drivers) shaft doesn't need to be removed from the wheel- once the offside cv is unbolted it slipped(was encouraged) between engine and sub frame- giving access for removal. The nearside(pass) was not so easy- I had to remove the entire driveshaft. The lower ball joint it just held on with 2 hex bolts- with these undone the complete wheel-suspension assembly pulls outwards. The cv bolts should be loosened beforehand. The hub bolt can be tapped loose with the bolt half screwed in to the shaft end. I think there are better/alternative instructions here someplace- Try the FAQ section on the Technical Main page. Best of luck! N :)

Hi, try this:- Jack car up, remove under-tray, grab driveshaft at the inner cv end and try to move up and down. If there is any movement, I mean ANY, or rattle noise, replace the entire shaft or maybe just the inner cv joint. While shaking the shaft up and down there should be no movement or audible rattle. This drivers side inner cv failed on me last year while pulling a caravan. It was so intermittent that it took 6 months to become a problem i.e. her ladyship wanted it sorted!

Hi It's just there to clip over the pad wear sensor wire and keep it held down. Niall

Hi all. Just thought I would share this. I had a bearing go bad on the front left wheel. It was making an audible groan while driving! The fact that it could be heard on our bad roads says a lot! I said I would investigate- wasn't confident enough to remove stub axle from the shock so I gave it to a mechanic to remove and replace. He said it was 90% shot and wouldn't have lasted much longer. I believe him but thought it was strange that the wheel still free-wheeled readily when spun? Anyway, all fixed now and

Ok Sparky- thanks for that- thats reason enough for me. I better order 2! Thanks Niallsan

Thanks Sparky. While waiting for a reply I said I'd check the TIS disc. To be honest I had forgotten about it??!!!?? It was just as you said. The disc/hub swung out enough to remove the halfshaft completely. The disc just needs to be pulled outwards. Those two allen bolts look a bit small to hold on that wishbone arm!!! I didn't change the hub bolt. Why is that necessary? Just looks like a bolt to me? I know it says to change it in the TIS as well? Anyone know a technical reason? Is it liable to snap/break if reused? Thanks again Niallsan

Hey Traff Small question- when you undo those 2 allen bolts from under the ball joint- does that mean the ball joint does not need to be broken? You said to pull the strut out- is that just give a tug on the hub/disc and the strut will move outwards? I'm trying to change the inner cv joint and the driveshaft needs to come out. Will I have to undo the steering rod(don't think so)? Or the drop link(don't think so)? Thanks!

[Just to add to this:- I had an inner cv boot fail about June last Year. I only noticed it when we had a flat tire on the drivers side front. Anyway, we were heading to France in August so I had the boot replaced. All fine- until- on the motorway in France the Caravan we were towing had a blowout. Immediately after that there was a noticable wobble/vibration in the car- worse when the car was under load. We brought it back to the garage that replaced the boot when we returned home- they couldn't find anything wrong. Brought it to a Ford dealer lately to find the problem. They couldn't really find anything wrong except maybe a little wear in the cv joint. Over the last week the vibration was really bad. I decided after inspecting the cv joint, which had about 2mm of movement, to replace the inner cv joint. The Motomax.pl people mentioned elsewhere on this site sent 2 cv joints. I removed the cv joint only to find it dry as an Arabs sandal! If you want something done right - try it yourself first. Replaced with new cv joint. Works a treat. No wobble/vibration. You would think the least a garage could do would be throw a bit of grease in the blasted thing!

Hi Horse! Sounds like the parking sensor ECU is kaput. Mine was doing the same thing. I had to bite the bullet a purchase 1 from the main dealer

I knew I shouldn't have bothered contributing. Too many pedantic people around. But I suppose your right, I am contradicting myself. Well done!

I don't believe you need any special wiring for the caravan lights. I did make up a box of relays for my caravan lights though, just to take the load from the cars system. The Galaxy has a Canbus system and if you splice into the car lights directly I think this will throw up faults. I didn't risk it so I could be wrong on that one! It may be worth the €50 for piece of mind. I took the caravan lights power from the 12v rear cigarette lighter socket. I think you can purchase these relay boxes from Towequipe. I got a detachable Bosal Towbar for my 05 Auto, just in case the towbar was getting picked up by the reverse sensors. Remove the bumper, remove the bumper bar thingy at the back, remove spare wheel, slide in towbar into the chassis, fit supplied bolts and torque as recommended. Give it a go- its dead easy- save yourself €€€€. When the swan neck is fitted sometimes the sensors detect it but only if the hitch cover is crooked! Obviously, when the neck is off ,it's ok:rolleyes:. I got the towbar from the UK for about €250 cheaper than I could buy it in Ireland?!?!?!?!? That was just for the Caravan lights- I didn't wire it for fridges etc.

Really well done with those pics. I attempted to disassemble my heater earlier this year- its def the same as yours. When I discovered that you had to drain the water/coolant to get it apart I cancelled the whole operation. Mind you I did get a sneak peak through the top cover and discovered that the glow plug was a pre-wired deal. A few months later I borrowed my buddies VAGcom and got a dosing pump error(short circuit). Changed the dosing pump- (scrap dealer, and had to tell him where to look for it!) Still no joy. Questions:- 1) Is the dosing pump wired into the control module in the heater? I'm only assuming it is. 2) any idea where you can buy the control module, 3) Is there much problem refilling the coolant system, with air-locks etc..? Oh, by the way, I have a feeling the module was fried when the back-box of the exhaust was being welded!!!!! N