daddyfixit

low gas or no gas switches off system so it will not turn on and destroy the compressor by running it "dry". as suggested get into an aircon specialist or kwikfit/ Halfords who offer the cheap re-gas and "guarantee it will be cold !!! they carry out a vac test and nitrogen test before saying its ok to refill system.

suggest taking it for a motorway drive; exhaust will heat up to higher temperature---and cruising at sustained speed ecu should kick in the regen process ? I assume its not carrying out regen because the car isn't getting hot enough (sort, local runs low speeds ) ???

the booster heater is there because (by design) the pd engine wastes virtually no heat from the combustion chamber into the cylinder block (water jacket)---so the coolant stays cooler than usual diesel cars. the booster heater is there to heat up the coolant to allow the engine to reach operating temperature quickly (also providing hot water for the heating system)---and yes as you said, its an integral part of the engines cooling/heating system. by reducing the total capacity of water in the system, the safety net of having "loads" of water to cool the engine, or to heat up the car would be reduced. my booster heater was off for the winter before last, I drove around 20 miles to a friends house to jump start her car in snow/icy weather and the galaxy temp gauge was still on the cold markings.....not enough to warm the screen on my car nor to provide any warmth for me to defrost !!!

its dead easy to un-plumb it, remove it and join the 2 pipes together but be warned; 1. but you will have virtually no heating system in the car when it comes to winter, which means you wont be a happy camper or traveller as you will rely 100%on heated front screen . 2. you will lose the extra- cooling ability for the engine if we ever get this hot weather again (or you are stuck in m6/m5 traffic jams) 3. the engine will take longer to reach operating temperature so it will not be as efficient as it was meant to be. 4. the longer an engine takes to warm up--the more its wearing itself out. I would ask whats so important to add-on to a car that you risk the above ???

yes, I think there is a guide/thread on here on how to change them.

possibly rear caliper has failed internally---mine went 2 weeks ago; I thought handbrake cable had snapped but it was the handbrake mechanism inside the caliper.

sounds like strut top mount has fell to bits ???

i cant remember the order the parts went in.....but I do remember using a large crowbar to push the stub shaft into the box to compress spring--then I was able to get the allen bolt in.

result !!!! get in there steveant1.....who needs ebay now then ??

wires in drivers door will have snapped/shorted out; allow yourself half a day if you have not done them before see the tech guides on here to see how to repair them----soldering iron, heatshrink tubing and some wire to splice into the breaks.

ford towbars cost a fortune ! a google search will give loads of options, or even ebay if you want a 2nd hand one ? I bought mine new off ebay from a place in Manchester called p.jones % sons. '

I don't agree with solid conversions; if it was made with a dual mass, then put one back in. yes, I understand the logic in why solids are available, I have read up on them, spoken to manufacturers at trade shows and remain convinced that a clutch plate with extra travel built in---will not offer same amount of shock absorbtion and transmission damping that the larger diameter flywheel offers. as my car is an oldie/high mileage I don't want to introduce any new/shocks/bumps/loads to it (pampering it so it lasts longer) so I would be fitting a dual mass if needed.

that's the dual mass flywheel rattling, proves it if noise goes away when you press the clutch.

look down front of engine by oil cooler take off....im sure its there ?

90 degrees...it did rise a bit driving up a hill on motorway near Bristol airport on the way to cornwall...foot hard down, fully loaded trying to dodge hgv,s !!

afraid so, seen loads of "repairs " like this over the years........and then had to fix them. best way is a small loop of wire, soldered at both ends and then use heat-shrink tubing, this takes strain off repair area and the loop takes away the cause of the breaks.

i guess the wobble is the loose bolts..M10 OR M12 MULTI-SPLINE HEADS ?? as standard there are no locking devices on the bolts, just the tightness keeps them secure and stops them un-doing. you are nearer to j&r driveshafts in Birmingham---ring them Tuesday and get a set of new bolts from them....or ford stealership ?? the seal pops out using large screwdriver to lever it out---there isn't a lot of room to swing a hammer to tap new seal in (ONLY AVAILABLE FROM FORD--£9.00) I think the gearbox oil is ford or vw only as well....

i changed mine about a month ago on my 2000 lx; the rear upper bolt on nearside was stupidly tight and needed a crowbar to get it out of the chassis. I released the rear bumper after dropping mudflap down and pushed arch liner out of the way, the lower bolts came out easily---all bolts copperslipped when refitted. offside ones easier as they haven't driven through roadside puddles for 16 years........

you need to get the seats out and lift carpet up to access fuel pump in the tank. when ignition is on , check the wires to the tank unit with a voltmeter. if there is a voltage there, then assume in-tank pump has failed. if no voltage then its time to find a wiring diagram or handbook to see which fuse feed the pump

as above ?? then remove/re-connect every single multi plug that you have touched then fill the diesel filter with fuel using a syringe or any method you can before refitting it and trying to start the car after changing galaxy diesel filters, i usually turn ignition on for 10 seconds then switch off ----repeat half a dozen times so that tank pump can prime system-----then try to start car

I repaired the loom on mine; 3 wires needed attention, so I extended each wire instead of just joining them together, I soldered/heatshrunk a 3" loop of wire ---so the repaired section was moved out of the hinge area (that causes the breaks). also I have done the same on tailgate loom; as there are so many thin wires in the rubber gaiter I have never just soldered broken wires together, but extended them all so they are moved out of the area that caused breaks---the new looped wire will be free to flex about as tailgate opens/closes.

drivers front door loom; mine done the same and also wound down the front windows a few minutes after being locked !

or the in-tank pump is faulty/weak ? is it since you changed a diesel filter ??

you may find fluid splashed all inside the wheel arch ? the rack fails , oil leaks past seal into the rubber gaiter--- the steering rack gaiter inflates with fluid then bursts.... mine emptied itself in 20 mins driving from home to ecp to buy fluid (they were shut !!) exchange rack was £200 but genuine was over £400 !! 2 years warranty so thanks very much.

done mine a few months ago, I do remember needing a big lever bar to push the stub into the box against the spring pressure so I could get the centre allen key to get started on its threads in the differential.??