NikpV

Programming new keys for PATS immobilizer This procedure only works if two or more programmed ignition keys are available and it is desired to program additional key(s). Note: If the programming procedure is not successful, the new key(s) will not start the vehicle and the anti-theft indicator will flash. If the programming procedure was not successful leave the ignition switch in the RUN position for at least 30 seconds, repeat the Key Programming procedure from step 1. If the failure repeats, refer to Diagnostic and testing to review DTCs and carry out Pinpoint Tests. Note: A maximum of eight ignition keys can be programmed to a passive anti-theft system (PATS) equipped vehicle. Note: If the steps are not carried out as outlined, the programming procedure will end. Note: Ignition keys must have the correct mechanical key cut for the vehicle and must be a PATS encoded key. 1. Insert the first programmed key into the ignition lock cylinder and turn the lock cylinder from the OFF position to the RUN position (maintain ignition lock cylinder in the RUN position for one second). 2. Turn ignition lock cylinder to the OFF position and remove the first key from the ignition lock cylinder. 3. Within five seconds of turning the ignition lock cylinder to the OFF position, insert the second programmed ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder and turn the ignition lock from the OFF position to the RUN position (maintain the ignition lock cylinder in the RUN position for one second). 4. Turn the ignition lock cylinder to the OFF position and remove the second key from the ignition lock cylinder, key programming mode is now active. 5. Within ten seconds of turning the ignition lock cylinder to the OFF position, insert the unprogrammed ignition key (new key) into the ignition lock cylinder and turn the ignition lock cylinder from the OFF position to the RUN position (maintain the ignition lock cylinder in the RUN position for less than five seconds). 6. Check the new programmed key starts the vehicle. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position for five seconds and then try to start the vehicle with the new programmed key. 7. To program additional key(s), repeat the applicable key programming procedure from step 1.

right - the two keys you have will enable you to program the new key to be accepted by the immobiliser system. Can't remember procedure I will have a look later The link is for reprogramming the remote key - follow the procedure - note after the new key is programmed all others will be erased so you have to repeat the procedure will all of your remotes (up to a max of 4) without exiting the gem system. Note the two sections are separate - you can have a remote which opens the car but cannot run the engine and vice versa Hope this helps :blink: :(

As long you have got 2 keys you can program the chip on another (Mk II) or on a Mk I you need the red key to do this IIRC :blink:

here you go thanks to seatkid and ressurected by BD remote key programming

are you running at the correct pressures ??

not having seen the inside of the door its difficult to suggest anything can you post some pics ??

Definitely ... only problem is if we arrive home while they are half-way through a film they want to sit and finish it :blink: :lol: and they don't want to wear the headphones :lol: :lol: I sometimes worry about them losing out by not looking around at the scenery etc but what the hell, my ear drums and SWMBOs blood pressure suffers otherwise :P :D BTW enjoy your trip :D

About 45 mins away - gives the kids a chance doze/unwind before we get home :lol: :lol: :lol: :P :D

see answer in aux heater thread

disconnect temp sensor, reverse up to door of dealership, start it up, open door and after five minutes ask them if its ok. :blink: :lol: :lol: ps temp sensor is clipped to wiper linkage on left hand side IIRC PPs its not normal

Actually we aim for a Dull day - turn up at 9.30, 1 hour play in the park for the kids - rides til 1 picnic till 2 last few rides gone by 3.00 - kids get more rides that way, not too busy. Thursday though it pi55ed down, having said that the kids were happy :lol: :lol:

Umm - I can't tell from tis but it could be that the window motor and regulator are not separate (module a124) in which case the regulator may be borked so the only way be manualy. :lol: :lol:

there is a connector but I don't know which wire is which - find this out and cross wire the open to close and try 'opening the window'.

and MERGE IN TURN unfortunately the nearside lane usually interprets this as pushing in except where explicit signs are placed .... solution use more signs in these situations and the tailback becomes half the length but still takes the same time to get through - in theory :angry:

without having seen it - can you not manually turn the mechanism (since from your description the motor is running but not operating the mechanism) to move the window and so align the clamps to the access holes. Is the click from the motor because the mechanism/glass stuck somehow??

I think on here most have got the message :angry: :ph34r: :D

looks a nice job :lol: well done One query - have you removed on of the power connectors in the back left - or did you gal only have one here???

possibly a break in the wires as they go through the rubber boot between door and pillar

actually this doesn't bother me very much, I have an auto galaxy so would rather be rolling slowly which is more likely if people weren't bumper to bumper. I would have thought it would be safer with a buffer if somebody doesn't notice the hold up - back end shunt would be less severe. of course causing problems with people pulling out across roundabouts etc would need to be taken into account ...

if on all the time then probably a sensor fault or missing the sensing ring on CV joint - search(see above) for 'abs light' - all dates - all forums

Surely your renowned DIY skills can cope with a garage and car-port extension :( :o

guess we've got stamina :( :o Well done MO4 :o :D any chance you can sort out a crushed sill next - with photos ta in advance :D :D

Glen said (in live chat) that he'd been here since 2003 (shrug) - reckon he'll do a good job

slide seat as far back as possible first, tilt seat up to 90 degrees then squeeze two thin bars (as per MM post) and lift :( :o :o

what about a fridge magnet, magnetic catch on cupboard door. I've never done it but I think the undertray can be removed without raising the car. :D