Willie Krashitt

I am now worried that a 3 year old car is suffering similar symptoms to the 8 year old one I sold recently, as my 'new' one is an 06 as well, and just out of warranty. My previous Galaxy had no cold air from air con, despite there being no leaks. A local air con specialist (great service from The Garage at Blakesley, Northamptonshire) had gauges on high and low pressure ports, which showed that with compressor running, there was no pressure difference across the ports, ie. the compressor wasn't compressing. I ended up getting a new compressor, and the guy also advised on a new condenser and expansion valve while the system was empty of gas. Recharged system was perfect from the off, and current owner says it is still working well. Time to start saving up. George.

Mike, while you have a point, no correction is required. The question asked was about a 2001 1.9TDI, and from the original question that is what Terry is looking at. The question wasn't asked about mk2, but mk2 1.9TDI.

Hi, Officially they are different - Pre 15 March 2002 is a YM2H-19D629-BA, After this date it was YM2H-19D629-BB, superceded by a 6M2H-19D629-AA. In practise however, you can definately fit the later part to an earlier car - I know because that is what I did and the Aircon is still working as good as gold (so new owner tells me). George.

Does your car have the curtain airbags? I think you will be lucky and find that it isn't an airbag fault, just an error picked up by the diagnostic system because you disconnected some wires. Get yourself a diagnostic lead - they're not expensive, and download a copy of VAG-Com. You will be able to reset the fault code. There is loads of info scattered around this site on how to configure your PC and how to use it. If, of course the fault code / airbag light reappears, then you might well have caused a problem with the wiring. Is there a moral here about why the dedicated wiring kits are so much better? As to the wait for one, I got a mortgage (It cost

If there are 2 thumbwheel switches in the centre console below the heated screen /hazard light / parking sensor buttons, then yes. If there are no thumbwheels, then no. Most heated seats came with the leather seat option, not so common on the cloth seats. George.

Exhaust gas can get extremely hot, and with a heavy car on the ECE emissions drive cycle NOx emissions can be a big problem. As I mentioned above, adding exhaust gas (EGR) into the inlet charge lowers the combustion temperature and reduces NOx emissions. However, due to the vehicle weight, significantly more gas needs to be recirculated than would be the case for the same engine in say, a Golf. This in turn makes the intake charge very hot, losing efficiency. To resolve this, a cooler/heat exchanger is added to the EGR pipework, and this is placed just before the EGR valve. See item 5 in the attached picture. George.

For what it's worth. No.1- The brake light self test light stays on until you apply the brakes. It IS designed to do that. George.

Hi TM Rear inner trim panels - Not really anything nasty. There is a good description in the Tech section FAQ's of how to do it. It is just tedious removing so many bits just so that you can plug in one or two connectors that you can't quite undo via the access panels. You will need a special 12? point star bit to undo the seatbelt upper mounts. Can't remember exactly what size it is. Worst thing I encountered was the clips for the D-pillar covers aren't that robust. Also you will need to remove the stainless boot trim so that you can lift the carpet. Be careful as the edges can be sharp. Use several flat levers and you slould be ok with it. FAQ's also have good description on how to remove the rear bumper so that you can fit the towbar. George.

Hi, Its easy! VW kindly provided a nice big hole / grommet in the middle of the boot floor for the very purpose of passing the wires through! It is used on most cars for the parking sensor wires. My first Galaxy had a factory fitted towbar, and both parking sensor and towbar wires went through this grommet. When I changed to my current car, I took the towbar from the old one and added it to the new. I bought the expensive purpose made wiring kit from Ford, and bizarrely the instructions tell you to drill a big hole in the floor next to the one that is already there for the purpose!. Even worse is that the new wiring loom comes fitted with a grommet to allow 2 seperate looms to pass through. I simply cut the grommet from the parking sensor wires, made a slit in the side of the new "2 hole" grommet on the towbar wires and all went through the pre existing hole. A smear of silicon once in place over the cut and all is sealed. Enjoy taking all the rear bodyside mouldings off so that you can access all the plugs and wires to connect up the electrics. Good Luck, George.

Agreeing with others re sticking EGR valve. If the EGR valve is sticking open, then there won't be enough exhaust energy to spin the turbo up properly, meaning low boost pressure. Not enough air going in = black smoke and poor performance/fuel consumption. As has been said, clean out the valve and cooler, it is a LOT cheaper to do, and these older design vacuum operated valves are cleanable. (VW want around

Hi, Simplest way is to get one of these. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wireless-LCD-FM-Tran...A1%7C240%3A1308 Works a treat in ours. George.

Hi BE AWARE OF THE 16" WHEEL BIT!! This is very poor information on the TIS Disc. The 270Nm torque refers to the caliper/mount used on the VR6 models only. All other cars use a different caliper and a different (smaller) bolt, which should be torqued to 190Nm (140 lb-ft). It is my belief that this description was a hang up from the past, probably Mk1 vehicles, when only VR6 cars got the 16" wheels. George.

For Info, the headlight adjuster motors are common to several VW group vehicles - From Skoda Octavia, to Audi A6. VW Group part number is 1J0 941 295A. And on Mk 2 Galaxy, there are 4 torx screws that have to be removed or loosened to remove the lamp unit. George.

Can be done - see here. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...5&hl=7+seat But ask yourself the question - "do I really need 7 seats?" before you do. We've replaced our early Y reg 6 seater with a much newer 7 seater, and our kids found the old one much better, as they had more room and had armrests. George.

Are you hoping to get one from a scrappy or a dealer? If it is through a dealer, then you might want to scrap the car as dealers will only sell unflashed modules (will need to connect car to IDS to program module) and the cost is a staggering

I'm no expert on this, but what you are suggesting sounds reasonable. From my dealings with other PATS equipped vehicles, I'm certain you will also need the 'PATS Transeiver' module- this is the bit that 'reads' the keys, and possibly/probably the PATS module that resides somewhere behind the instrument cluster. eTIS shows 2 diagrams for the 2.0/2.3 Galaxy, one saying that the transeiver module is on the steering column, the other saying that it is in the central junction box. Sorry I can't enlighten you any more than this. George.

We changed to Admiral last year (July) - cost then was

Mike, The part I believe you want is F1224916 (3M21-19E715-AA), and would cost you

Only you know the condition of the car and therefore what is looking likely to break. Galaxies are generally strong and will get you home - Its usually the secondary bits that go wrong and cause ownership grief. However, my advice would be to give the car a full service at least a month before you go, and check condition of brake pads/discs. When was brake fluid last changed? If you are going through the Alps, there are some very long continuous downhill sections where you really need your brakes in top condition. How good are your tyres? Make sure that the are in good order with plenty of tread and inflated properly. Make sure that your spare tyre is ok for use, inflated to the highest pressure you would need and that the winch still works. If you are going in the summer, make sure that your air con is OK. If you are going very soon, check your antifreeze is of the correct strength, as it can get very cold overnight around the Alps at this time of year. Pack a 1litre bottle of 505.01 spec engine oil for topping up. Other details: Check local regulations for what you need to carry - first aid kit, bulb kit, warning triangle and fluorescent jackets (1 for each person in the car) are a legal requirement in several countries. Headlamp masking is a legal requirement for RHD cars used in the EEC - details are available on the TIS disc. Easy to do with some sticky backed plastic. Check with your insurers to make sure that your insurance is to the same level as here, not just minimum legal reqt when abroad, and get a Green Card if necessary. Break down cover? I always get it and last time I looked, Green Flag were the cheapest.

Current list price is

Any good quality 5W30. Ford own brand "Formula E" is not too expensive and is very good. These engines don't need expensive synthetic oils, so don't waste your money on stuff like Mobil 1 or similar. George.

Ford part number is 95VW-18B505-BA, Finis code 1036773. Costs over

From what I can see, 24th May 2004 is the change date. Before this date, standard fit was D5W-S, and after this it was D5W-F. If you had the "Engine Super Heating System" (I assume that this means the one with the timer) then pre May 2004 was a D5W-Z, afterwards D5Z-F. For what it is worth, the Ford Dealer price is

Hi again, Whilst I did mine myself, it isn't the easiest job to do unless you are an experienced mechanic with access to a good set of tools etc. If as your earlier responses suggest you want it done at a garage, then Woodhouse Engineering in Rayleigh (01268 745745) - also known as the "Cambelt King" are worth a call. It is run by the guy who mechanics/exposes bad practice on the programme "Rogue Traders", and as a result he does his utmost to put the customer first and won't stitch you up. You can get a multi view video of your car being worked on as well if you want. I think he charges around