JohnR

We need a bit more info here.... please add your vehicle particulars to your signature. You don't say manual or auto for instance.......

My post wasn't old! Yes, I had changed front wheel brgs (rear ones very rarely seem to go). When I checked back though, it was further back than I thought, and was about 60,000 miles ago. After swapping both drives shafts out this week and after 170,000 miles (50 quid each on ebay), the noise was still bad and getting worse. This evening, I swapped the drivers side front wheel bearing and hey presto, almost like new again! After having replaced them a couple of years ago, I had all the tools lined up and it only took me just over an hour. Getting the old ones out is still as tough as I remember it, but I jigged up the wheel knuckle on steel blocks and used a slide-hammer. To pull the new one in, I just used an old driveshaft and large circular steel disk (just big enough to ensure force transferred through outer race)with greased hub-bolt and 27mm socket on electric impact wrench. I must say, that after swapping to the latest spec VW gearbox oil, replacing the gearbox a/v mount, replacing the drive shafts (and inner shaft & transmission bushing a year ago), now that I've fixed the wheel bearing you would never guess that the old gal had done 170,000 miles. It still burns no oil at all between service intervals either!

Darton, Did you get anywhere with this problem? I've got the same kind of droning noise from my 6-speed manual box (at 170,000 miles). Have changed drive shafts, worn a/v mount and latest VW formulation of the gearbox oil to no avail.... am worried could be diff bearings, but g/box (synchro etc) is otherwise silky smooth???

Just changed g/box oil in 6 speed manual (170,000 miles) and it seems to have made things a bit smoother. However, whilst underneath I found the main source of noise/vibration. The lower a/v mounting under the gearbox is knackered. Anyone done the rounds and found out whether Ford, VW or Seat is cheapest and have part numbers? Thanks, John

Thanks for the report. I too replaced the shafts and bushing into the transaxle a year or two back, using the Ford bits (got trade). Anyone with a bad clunk on takeup ought to jack up the front and check out the play. I kept an eye on mine for a year or so, and caught it just in time. The male spline was worn right down and must have been close to the point of shearing completely. I swapped mine at about 120,000 miles and now up to 170,000. If you ever split the assembly for any reason, its worth cleaning off and re-packing as the joint is not sealed! (especially if you run without an undertray).

Just FTR, and for posters reading this thread in the future, VW have reformulated the oil for the 6 speed manual box a few times apparently. The latest, and recommended is a fully synthetic, VW number G052171a2. Expect to pay

My 52 plate Tdi (with 6 speed manual box) has now done 170,000 miles. I reckon it would be a good idea to drain off the gearbox oil, flush it and refill it. The spec from TIS for the 6 speed manual is NO52171VX00, but Fraud dealership do not have in stock. Has anyone run a different gearbox oil, or does anyone have a viscosity spec or table of equivalents? Thanks for any help. BTW.... the filler plug takes a special key, I just found them on ebay for a few quid under "VW drain plug" John

Had similar problems for quite a while. In the end, I replaced the injector wiring (which is inside the rocker box cover). Not too difficult a job, but apparently an issue on early mk2's.

For a few years now, I have been using two sets of tyres on the Galaxy, having acquired a spare set of Audi A6 alloys from the breakers. Whilst not generally required in most of the UK flatlands, I drive to the alps every year and so keep one set of rims with winter tyres, the other with the hardest summer compound I can find (for decent mileage). For summer, I have found the Accelera Alpha (225/55/16 ZR 99W XL, all four corners fitted for

My galaxy has now done 143K miles and I knew the inner splines were worn so I fixed it today. Whilst having a set of 1/2 shafts/CV's from the breakers, I decided to go to Frauds to get the inner shaft and mating gearbox internal spline. That turned out to be a bit pricey as the inner shaft and mating spline inside the gearbox came to

My friend, who suffers from dwarfism, got pick-pocketed in town the other day......... How could anyone stoop so low..... My other short friend wanted a new set of gold clubs......... I suggested he went to Littlewoods.....

If you make a tight turn in a car park, do you get a knock-knock-knock? That would indicate a CV joint issue. Wheel bearings usually exhibit excessive play (jack up wheel and test for looseness). They will usually roar for 10's of thousands of miles before a catastrophic failure. If you do plan to swap the wheel bearings yourself, be prepared for some blood, sweat and tears.....they are ***** tight! I'd consider finding someone with a flypress to press the bearings out of the hubs. I used some steel drifts on an anvil, and a 4lb hammer but it was not easy. Also, the front calliper bolts need a 27mm a/f socket and a 2ft breaker bar. Soak them with WD40 the night before as well. Good luck! John

Howdy chaps! I'm back! The gals been servicing me well for the last year or so (now got 142,000 miles on it), following clutch DM flywheel replacement. Noticed splines on inner drive shaft were quite badly worn so I cleaned and repacked and have been driving gently. However, from the degree of vibes I'm now getting I figure its time to sort it out. How much do you have to strip off to replace the inner shaft? most fixings should be easy enough as I did a front suspension rebuild only 18 months back. Any tips? Cheers, John

I had similar problems for ages. I swapped the door lock solenoid but the problem remained. I repaired the door loom where it had sliced through the insulation and also found a dodgy crimp connection into the 31 way connector. I repaired it by squirting some silver loaded epoxy down the hole and it lasted a few months. Finally, last week i got fed up with it and bought a new door loom for about a hundred quid. As I had taken it all apart before a couple of times, it only took me an hour to swap it. From a cold start, its a good couple of hours.

Ahaah! Having just sorted mine out this weekend I think I know this one.... My tensioner was bouncing all over the place as well, and the engine a bit rattley on tickover. Also, there was a sort of squeal or chirping noise on hard lock. A search on the forum here suggested checking the alternator pulley, which has a one-way sprag clutch built into it. I bought a pulley from fords (they said they'd never sold one before! - usually change alternator!) and also swapped the tensioner. The result is it sounds like new again! To swap the pulley in situ, you need to buy a Sealey tool which is about

It depends upon how much gas has been lost. If the system was working recently, you can buy a cannister with gauge for less than

I had the same trouble. In the end, I got a piece of timber about 38mms x 19mms and cut a notch in the end. I then managed to get the 1/4 turn twist and remove the thing. Took an hour though!

Ok. I got the Accelera alpha's, 225/55/16 99W XL and put them on a pair of 7 spoke A4 alloys from the breakers in a 7.5J after repainting them. Looks smart! The tyres seem to run quieter than the Continentals, and I like the way the sidewall gives good rim protection to avoid kerbing the alloys. Assuming that they last ok, I'd recommend them. john

Thanks for the suggestion, but the crimps are not hollow on these, and are buried deep. Thanks SWFsnapper, but the door looms are handed and i need the driver side.

Thanks Adrian. Will get a set fitted tomorrow at Bathwicks in Gloucester. Cheers, John

I just got a set of alloys from the breakers and re-finished them so that I can finally take off my Continental winter tyres before totally knackering them. I picked up a set of Audi A4 alloys in a 7.5" x 16. I've tried a wheel on the car and they seem to fit ok. I've just rung around the local tyre outfits, and can get a set of 4 budget summer tyres, "Accelera" in a 225 x 55 x 16, XL and 97 load index fitted and balanced for