Nige F

Had a similar problem with mine last year, especially when the car was hot. Had a mobile engine tune man look at it. After about an hour of head scratching and no faults showing on the ecu, he found that the lambda sensor wasn't switching correctly and changed it. Been ok since

Does anyone know how to change the plastic covers on the backs of 3rd row of seats and are they readily available from Fraud??. Have broken 2 and I am looking to change the car and would like to get them sorted. Thanks

I think that this type of linkage can be repaired. There have been a couple of posts from Wolfman 62 who had the same problems as you and fixed it by stripping it down. Try a search, it will probably bring it up

Have had exactly the same problem appear over the weekend, on top of everything else that has gone wrong with the car over the last week or so (see other posts). Disconnected the MAF this morning and the car runs fine, revs freely all the way to the red now. Reconnected it to double check and the problem came back, so off to the local dealers to increase their profits even more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not sure if the 20L has a MAF, but it has got to be worth a try.

The plunger that comes out of the main body of the switch needsa firm push downwards and it will slide into the switch body. When fitting the new switch, push it all the way down, locate it and then pull it out to touch the brake pedal.

Hopefully have found a solution!!. My handle continued to pop off so I have now managed to bend the plate it fits onto. Did it by use a small pair of grips, bending it firstly towards the front of the car and then towards the interior. Seems to be ok so far, fingers crossed

Mine has popped off again today. will fix tmoro and will have a look to see if there is any adjustment or way of making it more permanent

Had a simmilar problem with pass door. The handle just hooks around a shaped plate on the inside of the door lock mechanisim To fix it firstly remove the door trim. Open the door and look at the top of the door where it shuts. There is a torx screw right at the top. remove this, but dont drop it as it goes down inside the door. Go back inside the door and gently push the handle assembly away from the door. This allows enough clearence for the handle to be then hooked onto the plate. This may not be too clear written down, but when you look at it, it will become fairly obvious. Mine pops out every time the kids try opening the door before it is unlocked and is very easy to fix (honset!!)

Might be your wiper motor that has packed up !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The rear heated screen has packed up. I have searched all the threads but there doesn't seem to be any answers on them. The light is on on the switch but it won't clear. Any ideas please

Can't give you a solution to the problem,but mine did exactly the same thing earlier this week. Tried spare keys in case the transponder was playing up with no difference. After a few more tries and putting the throttle to the floor several times it started and has been fine since.

Try this site. Have got the one that fits into the side of the dash and it is very good http://www.carphonekits.com

Finally got the car checked out by the below company today. He did a great job and eventually traced the fault to a duff Lambda sensor. Apparantly they normally just fail, but not mine. It had an intermittent fault and it was only after being connected to the computer for about an hour did it show up. The fault didnot last long enough to leave a code in the ECU. Trip to the local Ford dealer for the part (

Thanks for all the replies, exact cost was

I have to replace the door miror glass after Mrs F managed to find a wheelie bin hiding in the road!!. Has anyone had to replace and are they easy enough to do, the replacing bothers me more than removing the old one and at

Have spoken to my mate. He got he chains from the below company. They cost him

A mate of mine borrowed my Galaxy earlier this year and was able to hire a set of chains for this tyre size. He is away at the min, but will get the details from him when he returns. apparantly the problem with fitting is the type of link if my memory serves me right, will let you know

I am looking to change my 97 Galaxy Ghia X 2.3 for a newer diesel model. All Galaxys I have seen seem to have highish miles. Have seen a Alhambrsa SE 2000 model. How do the specs compare?. Do they have electric rear windows and quarter lights etc and how do spares availibilty and service compare to Ford

Glad to hear it all worked out ok. Bet the phone bill goes up now!! :angry:

Have just replaced the fronts on my 2.3 Ghia with Continental 215 60 15 ch 90 and phoned a couple of local dealers and all had them in stock and no mention of short supply. got them for

I have a 97 2.3 Ghia. Over the past few weeks the vehicle seems down on performance and fuel consumption is up. Over the past few days,when in traffic and the car is warm, the revs drop right down,then pick up again to normal tick over speed. This occurs when first slowing down. There is also a strong smell from the cat when this happens. Any ideas please??

http://www.carphonekits.com/. Kev Have found the above site site that now sells the Smart brackets. Nige

I screwed the speaker bracket to the screw that holds the trim panel in the passenger footwell. It keeps it out of the way and is far enough away from the mic to stop feed back. For info there is also a no drill bracket on the market from a company called Smart. I had a bit of a job locating one but it clips into the dash on the passenger side and makes a neat job without drilling the dash etc. Your local phone shop might be able to help with the supply of one.

I fitted a full Nokia car kit to my 97 Galaxy. The control unit fits niceley under the cover between the bottom of the dashboard and the floor. I took the feeds off the lower dash board curtosey lights and there are plenty of places to fit earths to. I have wired into the radio to mute the phone. To find out which wire to connect to. remove the radio but leave the radio on. Using a 12v screwdiver type circuit tester, (the type with a bulb in it to act as a resistor), connect on end to earth and then test each connection until the radio goes off. connect the yellow wire from the phone kit to this connection. Please make sure that the bulb is working on the cicuit tester otherwise it will blow the radio. For info, I didn't bother connecting the ignition feed. Having previous experience of this, it only switches the phone off after the keys are removed after a few minutes and can be a pain, unless you intend to leave the phone in the car

Wish i could get this much. Have just returned from holiday towing a caravan with 2.3 and average for journey home was 14.8!!