sparky Paul

I can't say I've seen anywhere online that lists a full range of body panels, only places like Beever's who list a few common bits. You could probably get a price for a pair of oversills by emailing them though. You could always try a good motor factor, my local factor has never had any trouble getting odd panels I've needed over the years, and the same day too. They're a little more expensive than a specialist, but if you are looking online you would have to add shipping costs anyway. Hope this helps!

Whilst the 2.8 definitely has the extra grunt, it does use more fuel and the insurance costs are higher. I find the 2.3 16V perfectly adequate in the Galaxy, with more than enough power for stress free overtaking. The timing chain also drives balancer shafts, making it a nice smooth engine for a four pot.

I wouldn't go the Belzona route, it will never be strong enough. Drill and tap to a larger size would work well in theory, but from memory (which is not A1) there isn't a lot of casting to enlarge the hole into. IMHO, you have two other options open to you. First of all, and preferable, is a replacement hub carrier. Alternatively, you could drill out the threaded part of the hub carrier to a clearance hole and grind a flat at the exit hole for a washer and nyloc nut. I would recommend a fine thread for the bolt and nyloc nut. It's a bodge, but it should be secure enough. Personally, I'd look for a hub. :lol:

VW or GSF don't stock the tensioner for the petrol models. The only supplier is Ford, or you can sometimes find them cheaper on fleabay. The only other option is to buy the idler pulley and use this to repair the tensioner, assuming it's the bearing that has collapsed. Have a read of this recent thread for a bit more info.

Yes, that one in the link is for the diesel. The petrol one is completely different, and as Mauser says you can indeed buy the much cheaper idler pulley and fit it to the old tensioner assembly. :huh:

The tappets are indeed hydraulic bucket-type on the 2.3 petrol, i.e. self adjusting, and it is possible that you have one sticking, if that's what it sounds like. You can try the engine flush, but you just have to be aware that this can sometimes cause more problems than it cures on an engine that has done 100k+ miles... all sort of oil deposits can be dislodged and circulated. It might be worth a try though if you are prepared to strip the lifters out if it does make matters worse. The recommended course of action would be to remove the cams, then remove, clean and examine each tappet very carefully for scoring/wear - sticking can be wear related. Preferably, a complete new set would be fitted, but it wouldn't be cheap... :huh:

I very nearly bought some Vredesteins last time, after reading recent Auto Express tyre tests. I'm not sure how accurate these tests are, but the Sportracs have done consistantly well in recent years, up against the very best tyres available.

Lots of things can cause misfires, but failure of the coil packs is quite common on the 2.3i. Welcome to the forum, by the way! :)

No cam belt to worry about on the petrol engine models. As gregers says, the cams are driven by timing chain, so no possibility of any related damage.

Same here... B) I've got one of these pumps, and when they work, they work very well. However, the damn thing won't work at all with the 2.3 petrol engine, something stops you getting to the bottom of the sump. B)

This probably won't apply to the VW engine in the Galaxy, but on many newer cars the preferred way of removing the oil is by suction. The sumps are designed so that the lowest point is at the dipstick tube, rather than the sump plug. This is due to the handling issues with waste oil. There is at least one main dealer who already uses a system which removes the waste oil via suction, and replaces it with new oil via the same tube, automatically adding the correct volume of oil without any intervention by the mechanic. Whether this is a good thing or not, I'm not so sure.

Yes, but mine is the right angle.... B) If you say so... B)

Did you say not reinforced? B) Tyre pressure is a direct function of tyre size, profile and loading. The Load Index marked on a standard tyre is determined primarily by the weight a given tyre size and profile can support at the rated maximum pressure, usually around 44 psi. From that maximum, the actual pressure required in the tyre is broadly proportional to the weight it is supporting. Most standard tyres are rated to 44 psi, and at this pressure they can carry their maximum weight. XL tyres are rated several LI points higher, and because of the relationship between weight and tyre pressure, the pressure they must withstand is consequently 5-8 psi higher, in general 49-52 psi. The 95H rated 16" Dunlop 2020Es fitted to many Galaxys are rated at 49 psi. What we are saying seems almost the same, but from different angles.

Good point, I forgot that one. The pressure relief valve in the cap sometimes fails. Check for coolant staining around the cap, or on the underside of the bonnet insulation.

Once you take the cover off the centre of the rocker cover, you will see it's pretty straightforward to remove the two coil packs. Disconnect the lead to the second spark plug by squeezing the retaining clips together, similarly disconnect the loom connector by squeezing in the retaining clip. Remove the four torx head screws securing the coil pack, and it lifts out. Repeat for the second coil pack. Take care not to over tighten when replacing the screws, particularly when replacing the spark plug cover, the rocker cover is aluminium and the threads are soft. Your symptoms could be a coil pack or plugs, but there could be many other causes. Is the car missing when this occurs - i.e. running lumpy or noisier than usual? As for the water loss, if the water isn't going on the floor, being driven off as steam, or into the oil, the next most likely candidate on the engine front is into the cylinder bore - again indicating head gasket failure. You can sometimes smell exhaust gases in the coolant bottle when this occurs. First of all though, I would have a good look around the engine bay for leaks, particularly around and on the radiator. You should be able to spot the vapour from a leak in this cold weather, even before it's bad enough to start dripping. Obviously, you need the car engine hot before they will become evident. Also look for signs of any coolant staining. Any difficulty demisting is an indication that the heater matrix may have a leak. The petrol Galaxy has an added complication that there is a heater matrix at the back of the car too, so check for leaks around the front of the rear nearside wheelarch, and also around the pipework which runs from there to the engine bay.

There is a difference, but you would not see a 94XL, 96 and 98 LI rating on a single tyre size. The 94XL tyre in standard form would likely be a 91 rated tyre for example. The 96 and 98 ratings would only be applied to larger tyre sizes, which would naturally be capable of a higher load. For a given tyre size, you will not find an RF or XL tyre with the same (or lower) load rating as a standard tyre. They do not exist. For a given tyre size, a RF or XL tyre will always have a load index 2-4 higher than a standard tyre. RF or XL tyres are not to improve handling. They are often confused with RSW, or reinforced sidewall tyres, which are more common in the US but are not the same thing. This is why manufacturers are moving towards the XL, or eXtra Load terminology, which more accurately reflects the specification of these tyres - they are capable of carrying a higher load (and consequently higher tyre pressure) than standard tyres for a given size, nothing else. Most tyres for the Galaxy need to be XL, but there is at least one 15" tyre size which can be obtained in a 95 rating on a standard tyre, and Ford specify a non-RF rating for this tyre. This is also repeated in the later mk.I handbook, where a minimum 95H is specified for all tyre sizes. You will also notice that much lower tyre pressures are required for the sizes in question, even fully laden the recommended pressures are all under 40 psi for the 215/60 R15 size - well within the limits of the standard tyre. Where I disagree with some other posters is that there is a specific requirement for reinforced or XL tyres on MPVs. The critical factor is the tyre's required load index, which is determined by the gross vehicle weight. In the case of the Galaxy, and many other MPVs, this means that in most cases, the tyres must be RF or XL types, where specified, in order to satisfy the required load index. However, this is not always the case. This can be demonstrated by the tyres fitted to one of the largest MPVs, the 3.3 litre Chrysler Grand Voyager. This vehicle is quite a bit bigger than the Galaxy, and yet the 215/65 R15 96H tyres specified are not reinforced - the 96 rating of the standard tyre is sufficient. Of course there is nothing to stop you fitting RF or XL tyres, even when they are not specified, and this does ensure you have the best tyres available. However, RF can be expensive and difficult to obtain in some less common sizes, and until recently, almost impossible to obtain for the disputed 15" tyre sizes on the Galaxy.

According to VOSA, there has never been a recall for tyres on any Galaxy model. That's not to say that Ford may have supplied some cars to dealers with incorrect (non-spec) tyres fitted, but VOSA must conduct, and be involved in, any recall which concerns vehicle safety for cars which are actually in the hands of consumers.

Yep, lack of undertray causing belt slippage and sudden loss of power steering is quite common. They do come up on fleabay occasionally, or it can be worth looking out for sellers breaking a Galaxy, especially those nearby. Failing that, try a scrapper.

Duplicate threads do make it hard going, and I haven't seen the other one. I assume that the OP has checked the common wiring failure point at the tailgate? :D

That's where mine is.

I doubt it. :) What a strange attitude!

That is the cable I use, and it works with the ScanTool software, usually supplied with the cable. My car has a manual gearbox, and this cable will read all the car's systems, except the SRS airbag system - you need VAG-COM cable and software for airbag. If your car is an automatic, you will need VAG-COM for gearbox too. So, if you want to access everything on the petrol models, you need TWO cables - the cable above with ScanTool software, AND a vag-com cable and software. OBDII cable + Scantool software will connect to engine, abs, electrical systems, etc. VAG-COM cable + software will connect to airbag, auto gearbox.

To be honest, the ScanTool software will do what you need engine wise, reading all sensors, error codes and resetting, etc. The problem with the petrol models is that to access everything, including the airbag system and automatic gearbox, you also need a VAG-COM cable and software, as well as the the OBDII/EOBD cable.

I got mine off fleabay, about