Sher

I'm considering this to replace my 2002 115 bhp Galaxy 1.9tdi Ghia whixh has now covered 125,000 miles from new. About the most unreliable car I have ever owned(?) though I cannot blame Ford as it is nothing more than a VW/Audi product. Mind you I've never had AC or DMF problems (yet). I know why Ford ditched the MarkII version even though the Ford badged version was more reliable than the VW badged version. Any comments as to gearbox/ DMF reliability. Assuming it has a DMF. Any other comments appreciated. Can I read that the lack of activity in the MarkIII forum indictes that this version is reliable?

If you can get warm water into the heater matrix then yourpump is working. If the system is pressurized after the engine has cooled down then gases have entered from the combustion chambers. Oil in the water is unlikely as the oil passages looked to be outside of the water passages. Pretty certain it is the head gasket. Common, I think, as an eventual result of failed water pump causing overheating or Remember we had a VERY cold winter -18C in my area. Usually our (UK) antifreeze strength is not really enough to prevent freezing at that Temperature.

If the splines felt "sharp" then I would replace. Try the rubber bearing/bush which sits at the top of the Shock absorber/ suspension strut. I was told that it was not an MOT failure (Offside) but after replacement the wobble went away along with the wear on the outside edge of the tyre.. It is a sod to get the top bolt off

If the offside shaft is gone then at 60,000 miles I would be fairly certain the intermediate shaft connecting to the offside shaft is VERY likely to be badly worn as well.

Sleep on the diagonal then.

Sorry if it seems confused I wasam working with flaky wifi on a Spanish Campsite. Overheating sorted by head gasket change. That overheating was caused by the gases blown into the cooling system pressurizing it and blowing out coolant. When I have driven the Galaxy with and without the caravan attached the Fuel usage seems to be ( according to the onboard display) 10-15% worse than it used to be. Is it possible for the timing belt (responsible for the fuel injection timing) to be slightly out ( 1 notch?) Or is it required to adjust the injection timing electronically to get back to the original performance?

Must be the head gasket. When I inspected my replaced head gasket, I could make out where the combustion gases had made their way out when hot. Though my coolant did not foam as it was a new/smaller leak. When the water pump fails it is not able to force the coolant back into the heater circuits after the system has been refilled. seatkid is spot on in his advice.

Following the 2nd time I've had to stop due to overheating on foreign motorways, 63,000mls and 119.000 miles I at 1st suspected water pump failure again. In Spain I use a smallish 1 man operation (little English) but good on VW/Audi diesels, perhaps not the latest models.. No problem understanding Alternator Workshop clutch failure and overheating due to pump failure. But too hot on the Galaxy itself. He changed water pump, alternator belt and tensioner but it showed no sign of failure (

"latest thing is power is gone, can barely get up slight hill. " (1) Check MAF is connected fully (2) Block the AGR vacuum pipe System should reset after switching off and then on so fault may seem to have cleared.

Check all your Glow Plugs function. They do more than just help starting. If the fuel is cool/cold they operate to help clean combustion. The EGR valve operates to recirculate sooty combustion products which help cause the problem of sticky Turbo vanes. Since I changed the Glow Plugs and blocked the Vac pipe for the EGR operationon my 2002 115bhp TDi Ghia it happened once until I drove it up the motorway, not since months ago (Feb?). It pulls far better and my Fuel consumption improved as well. (3/4mpg) I'm sure the electrically operated valve controlling the vacuum was stuck open.

I would use one of these:- http://www.towsure.com/product/Smart_7_Way_CanBus_Relay As for the 13 pin connectors they are not as secure as the older systems in use.

My 2002 115bhp TDi had this problem for some weeks/months before I was forced to change the Glow plugs because of very poor starting during the Cold weather we had in December. All 4 gone I suspect sooted the Turbo Vanes etc. After changing cold starting was back to normal. Overboost failure only happened twice before I drove it on the motorway with some high revs upto 4000 involved. It has not happened since in about 3000 miles. Now just an overheating problem at the end of 1700miles towing a 1600kg Caravan!

Sound like offside half shaft. Check the shaft from the Gearbox as well as the inboard CV joint. Failure seems to be related.

(1) Check glow plugs are working. (2) Remove Vacuum tube from EGR valve cover both open ends with tape to avoid ingress of dirt etc. My idle problem went away with (2) You can do (2) first but I suspect that failed Glow plug introduces soot into the system which may cause failure of the valve which controls Vacuum applied to the EGR valve, causing it to stick open. The extra soot also seems to cause sticky turbo vanes (overboost effect)which can be cleared by some high revs. Since I changed my Glow Plugs the Limp Home mode caused by Overboost has gone away. After driving over 2000 miles with (2) set up and a caravan attached, I suffered an overheating problem which I am still investigating though car still is driveable. It may not be related.

looked through the air intake of the EGR valve, So do I need to remove the bulkhead plate, disconnect the pipework to the left, stick a vac nozzle in? Any further guidance appreciated. One thing I noticed whilst fiddling with the vacuum pipe. The heater water pipe with a sleeve along a section of it. On the section going away from you towards the cabin, had a groove I could feel which I presume was from rubbing against the large pipe clip underneath. I promptly placed two pieces of gaffer tape on the underside of the pipe and around to reduce the chance of it falling off when the pipe is hot?

I notice zorgman's is a 110bhp motor. Mine is 2002 1,9TDi 115bhp Ghia 117,000 miles. I presume the vacuum also controls the variable vanes on the turbo. With a complete block in the pipe the driveability became very poor. I had first used some tape which may have allowed some leakage of air into the vacuum pipe. So today I used a taper headed machine screw to partially block the vacuum pipe and covered it with a (non flammable)improvised filter. Under test (5 miles) it seemed to perform well, lumpy tickover seems to have gone and the economy was back. Question:- Does the Vacuum for EGR operate at tickover on this model? I notice there was quite a build up of suction at idle using my thumb to cover the vacuum pipe. (Pity I don't have a vacuum gauge available to measure it.) Can anyone confirm that vacuum and hence EGR is applied at tickover? If there is not meant to be any vacuum then this will indicate the Vacuum control Valve is faulty.

This had started to happen every morning since I had been able to do only short journeys around town for some months. I changed the MAF for the spare I bought at 60,000 miles but the problem never went away. A week after, because of the poor starting in the very cold weather, I changed my 4 inoperative Glow plugs (2002 115bhp 1.9TDi 117,000 miles) and drove it quite brutally, taking the engine upto 4000revs/min in 2nd and 3rd gear this problem went away after a couple of days. I did 1600 miles to Switzerland and back last week and it did not happen once but only averaged 37mpg. I suspect also the exhaust recirculation regulation valve has been faulty for upto 6 months as the fuel consumption has been very poor 33/34 mpg. I blocked it and on a busy Motorway journey I averaged 41 something it used to do. I do not recommend blocking it for long as the driveability became very poor. I was just testing it. I intend to change the control valve.

Well I plugged it, Engine ticks over better,accelerates better, fuel economy is up back to normal perhaps better,but it seems to be suffering some juddering problems between 1500-2000revs after decelerating then accelerating. The power take up is not smooth feels like turbo lag. Seems I will have to try lifting the rocker cover and tightening the wiring for the injection system.

The Pd engine has a known issue with the injector wiring loom, located inside the rocker cover, having poor connections. I had the issue a few years ago, it also occurred at higher RPM's if I raised the engine revs a tad. Does this fault manifest as increasing or decreasing in revs? I'm suffering "hunting" at tickover with a small blip/fall in revs and then back to normal, when it happens

Since it happens when your revs drop is it possible that the one way clutch mechanism on the alternator is playing up?

Since it happens when your revs drop is it possible that the one way clutch mechanism on the alternator is playing up?

I have no complaints about my 2002 115bhp Tdi Ghia when on snow. I have not needed to fit my snow chains to get to the main road from my house in the 8 years I've had it. Since 1974 all the other cars I've had needed chains at some time. (The only car I've had that was better was my 1966 Hillman Imp which was fantastic fun in the snow)

Under inflation would give wear on the outer edges of the rear tyres. Could be some sort of suspension geometry action when loaded with a caravan and load in the back. Not acceptable in any way.

The most common is the n/s/f passenger floor I have fixed that one (15 minutes or so) but there seems to be a reduced amount of Rear screen liquid and a strong smell of screen cleaner fluid when I open the Rear. Most time consuming problem was wrapping myself up against the elements. Anywhere else down the line? I use a screen cleaner I buy in France good for -60C (it says) undiluted, and -20C when 1:1. Unfortunately over the summer I had must have neglected the top up mix since the rear screen wash stopped when the temperature dropped dramatically a couple of weeks ago. It was less than -10C.

I have had excess outer wear on the rear drivers side from, new noticeable at around every 20,000 miles. I make sure I have symmetrical tyres ( as the originals) and can then reverse the wheel on the rim.