Sher

Not ALL engine additives are per se a bad idea. Too much past evidence in other situations to contradict the scientific applications. If all additives had a problem then all our modern engines might wear out at about 80,000 miles or so depending upon running conditions as they did if not running in optimum conditions. Why do our modern Multigrade oils have additives even if they meet the required specs. Modern FULLY synthetic oils contain buckets of additives and DO the job they are designed to do. They are cheap enough if you source them well to change at recommended intervals ( Not extended) and you also do the required before switching off the engine. i.e. at least let the engine come to a tickover or in the case of Heavy work allow the engine to idle for 1 or 2 minutes before switching off. Additives are an expensive alternative to using FULLY synthetic oils. (NOT those with just a synthetic base).

Where abouts under the Trim will seem to have the best effect?

My 2002 1.9tdi Ghia Galaxy has always flagged up the 10,000mile service ahead of time. I must drive it hard if there is an intelligent system onboard. 67,000 miles and no brakes worn? Still on the 2nd set of tyres? I think not!

The French start to evacuate Paris at the end of July and head South with some of the most horric accidents and traffic tailbacks. So if you are one week ahead of the main rush it will still be busier than usual as people arrange to escape early. If you can manage it try after 2a.m. and before 6a.m. ( no later) France has a similar population to the UK but manages to kill about 9000 per annum on its roads. In the UK we manage about 3000. If you compare this with the Dutch and compensate for their smaller population we have about the same mortality rate Makes UK drivers quite reasonable despite all the hype. The Periferique with a caravan is just not worth the effort any time of day and perhaps most of the night. Passing around Lyon is also a bit of a nightmare but better than Paris.

Maximum Thermal efficiency of the 115Tdi engine is reached at the position of maximum torque in the rev range. This is when the cylinders receive the maximum density of air with the minimum of pumping losses (read gas flow frictional losses for this) and then the fuel, diesel in this case, is introduced at some time just before TDC, whch allowing for ignition delays inherent in the burning process allow for the maximum expansion of the now hot compressed gases before they are allowed out of the exhaust valve. The presence of the exhaust gas turbine then allows some of the as yet unextracted energy to be used in compressing the inlet air for the next combustion stroke. If the maximum torque is at 1900 rpm then I believe that (at 33mph per 1000rpm in 6th gear) this corresponds to 63mph. I find that if cruising at about these speeds I manage over 45mpg. However I avoid this in the UK because of tailgating HGV's. At 80 to 85mph because the Galaxy is a bit of a brick shape and the engine is no longer at maximum thermal efficiency I get 37mpg. At around 95 to 100mph it drops to about 33mpg but I have only limited testing at that speed. (Guess where in Europe before anyone complains?) I find that provided I manage reasonable mixed speed journeys over 10 miles with a maximum of around 60 mph whilst in Spain I get a very reasonable 46mpg. I think the original figures quoted for the Automatic mentioned which started this topic are poor. Modern automatics even of older design on petrol engines have slush pumps (torque converters) which lock at speeds over 1000-1500rpm. This reduces pumping losses which is the main power/efficiency loss in older automatics. I'm certain the auto Galaxies have these. 10% extra fuel consumption would give a Carbon Dioxide value 10% higher for the Auto Galaxy. Is this the case? (Galaxy Ghia 115tdi Manual 2002 loaded upto maximum GTW for about 4000miles/annum)

I presume the Drive shafts and half shafts mentioned are the same as mentioned and shown in this topic, on the Drivers/offside? http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...10745&st=15 I'm interested as I have just replaced these at 66,000 miles on my 2002 Tdi Ghia 115bhp. P.S. I had problems on a previous car Rover Sterling 827 that was related to the rear shock absorbers and only took place at specific speeds. Has the car been used for towing a caravan?

Perhaps a better name for this topic should be "Off side Half shaft problem combined with worn splines on output shaft from Differential" A common well known problem with 1.9Tdi from around 2002, or maybe before at around 60,000 miles. On the offside/ drivers side. ALL 1.9Tdi Owners and perhaps others should watch/listen for this. Symptoms:- (1). In intermediate gears (3/4) accelerate and back off and listen for clunking noises. Perhaps noises on changing gears. I even had similar noises when depressing clutch pedal and moving between gears without raising the clutch pedal. One Ford mechanic suggested that the synchromesh inside the box was at fault. (2) Wheels off the floor, undertray removed. Rotating offside wheel back and forth gave a clicking/clunking noise from the inner unlikely looking UJ. Once stripped proved to be worn as one of the 3 bearings inside the housing fell off. (3) Before stripping down I examined the movement available along the shaft connecting the Inner UJ through a bearing to the diffential unit at the lower end of what I presume is the gearbox. This seemed to contribute more than half to the slackness in the driveshaft system on the drivers side. This shaft is easy to remove and proved to have rather sharp edges on the Male Splines. The edges of Female splines inside the differential unit had edges but not sharp. With nothing to compare with directly I could only assume the mail splines on the output shaft linking to the Half shaft (better name One third shaft) was also worn. The bearing which is attached to it seemed to have more movement than I would expected. Repair:- (1) Outer Half shaft replacement gave a wonderful improvement in driveability (the inside transfer shaft was not available at once). Hadly any noise as mentioned in (1) above. Gear change noise much improved if not all gone. (2) Two days later the subsequent replacement of the inside shaft allowed the comparison of the new with the Old. Much worn Male splines on the old shaft. ( Grease was not dry !!!) The whole problem may be linked together with the worn bearing on the shaft allowing the splines to wear and in turn putting pressure on the 3 bearing CV joint inside the steel boot. Whatever, this is not a fair wear and tear problem. The passenger side shaft is ever so slightly noisy but has no slack in it when the tyre wheel is moved back and forth. I presume for the moment this will do. Definately a Materials or design fault. Total cost including labour about

Exactly the same problem with my 52 Ghia 1.9TDI 115bhp at about 25000 miles and 66000 miles I need to reverse the tyre on that wheel to equalise the wear. This is the second tyre in that location. The 1st was the same and was replaced at about 44000miles. I do use it for towing about 4000miles/ year. But would have expected equal wear on both sides. There is no way I can see to adjust/aligne the rear wheels. Does anyone know any?

They really do honour their Guarantee. I had 2 chips about 2cm apart in my Galaxy Ghia 1.9TDi which they attempted to repair. Still had had cracks visible. Under my insurance I pay nothing for that. ( I would have paid

I eventually got around to bleeding my Clutch Hydraulics. It makes very little difference to the problem I was experiencing of apparent air/slackness in the Hydraulic system What concerns me most now is the small horizontal movement (away from the engine towards the gearbox of 2/3mm) of the Bleed nipple device when the clutch is depressed. I am pretty sure this is not normal. I suspect this is the reason for the 2/3 cm slack on the clutch pedal before I feel pressure and the 3/4 cm movement from the floor at which the clutch just starts to bite. Is it possible that the combined slave cylinder clutch release bearing is not bolted securely to the inside of the bell housing or Gearbox? Any ideas?

The problem as mentioned at the start is the Failure of the Clutch Slave cylinder come Clutch release bearing which sits around the Gearbox input shaft. Mine failed at 63,000 miles 9 includes towing a caravan) Seems far too common on 1.9TDi 115bhp Galaxies

Thanks for the info about the pedal since mine has some slack in it. I didn't really think it was normal. The garage was attempting to fob me off. I've been offline moving from near Barcelona to Palomares Almeria and had to install WiFi on this Campsite. Have not had time to visit the local Library for FREE Internet access. I'm also interested in how you finally solved the bleed problem. Was it the Master Cylinder?

I saw this being done after I had to return to the garage with my 52 1.9Tdi 115bhp. (4 years 63,00miles used for towing my Hobby Caravan 7000miles ) After collecting the car and deciding that it was not correct following replacement of the Clutch and the hydraulically operated clutch release bearing. A one piece device which surrounds the gearbox input shaft. Complicated, compact no wonder it fails. Same as brakes 2 person job. Loosen bleed from above with very long extension. Torch is also needed to see it. Press clutch to floor. Close bleed nut. Raise clutch. Open bleed nut. and continue until clutch operates normally. "or 3 presses and it was done. I was being told that it was normal to have so much play (2-3 inches) before feeling the clutch pressure rise. The clutch was also biting about 1 inch from the floor. Typical air in Hydraulic system sponginess. It wasn't until I started to phone the AA call centre for a callout to my undriveable car at this garage that something was done. It took 2 minutes. Originally the garage had said I needed a new flywheel (DMF) as well with 99% certainty. Oh yes there was a discount on this part if it was reconditionable of about 3%. I had diagnosed the problem from these forums as the failed Clutch bearing with possible contamination of the clutch. I demanded all parts to be returned to me after replacement in their original boxes in that case, since some vehicles manufactured after mine but the same year had a Ford recall on these parts and I wanted to pursue this matter. Needless to say the DMF was not required!! When I inspected the clutch it looks fine to me with no apparent contamination by fluid. But then I don't see replacement clutches every day. In the event the flywheel was not changed. This was a Ford main agent at El Vendrell South of Barcelona, North of Tarragona. About 20km away towards Barcelona is a better but slightly dearer Ford main agent at Vilanova i La Geltru with English speaking personnel. Wish I had know about them before I took it to the closest Ford agent from the Motorway. Also has a great campsite open all year. Moral of this event? (1) When the clutch pedal hits the floor of its own accord its likely to need just the expensive clutch release bearing changing. Its 4 hours Labour to do whichever country you are in because of the need to remove the gearbox to get at this part. (2) It may not need a clutch replacement ( expensive) This is my 1st new clutch in 40 years of driving averaging about 15000 miles/annum. The excuse here is "Might as well since the gearbox is off!!" In my mind its likely to be off again to change that clutch release bearing after another 60,000miles. (3) Always demand replaced parts in original boxes. If its reconditionable then you can arrange that yourself and either save it for next time or offer it here in the Forum. (4) Keep an eye on the Hydraulic fluid levels! Question? Is there a problem with this part (clutch release bearing) in Galaxys in 1.9Tdi's used for towing?

I've used different type of Belkin ADSL and DSL router in different locations and have had no problem apart from failed power supplies after 15 months continuous use. Replaced under Belkin's excellent lifetime Guarantee FOC. I have used them on English ADSL, Belgium DSL/ADSL and Spanish ADSL. The Belkin54g range are the easiest to use in comparison with the Linksys WRT54G range of DSL router. The Linksys have some other advantages such as easily obtained 3rd Party firmware, detachable antennae and greater transmitting power(possibilities). The latter is not much of an advantage if the device connecting cannot manage (1) Transmit the same power or (2) be configured to operate at lower speed back to the router or (3) use some kind of Antenna booster to get back to the router I always recommend in the 1st instance to my friends Belkin because of it simplicity in setting up and the lifetime guarantee. (The above recommendation does not apply to the single antenna versions of the F5D7230uk4 DSL devices. I bought one on Ebay, it was flaky. Got my money back from the seller without returning it, he didn't want it. He must have known before he sold it. Why he didn't just contact Belkin and get it replaced for a working one I do not know) I have nothing against the Linksys54g I have 5 of them. They do have their advantages as I state above. I have 4 Belkins as well. P.S. I just remembered the above advantage does not apply to Linksys 54G/GS after v4. There are plenty of reports of purchasers returning their v5 and beyond because of the changes made. Linksys felt forced to introduce the WRT54GL as a result of what was happening(it is by all reports a WRT54GSv4). They do expect a premium for it though. P.S.S. All settings can usually be obtained from a search on the web. I had no problems every time I've need to find them. (AOL, BT, NTL, Belgacom)

(1) Always take a PC with you and select sites if you can with Internet connection. AND ALWAYS (2)require the replacement parts used (with packaging) to be returned to you. When your car breaks down (or anything else that is) then you can access this forum to tell you what the problem is!!! Why do I say this? Recent experience at 63000 miles 4years 1month. Galaxy Ghia 1.9Tdi 115bhp. The hydraulic mechanism used as the clutch release bearing is neat, compact and expensive to replace. It has to be the Achilles heel of the Galaxy as the most difficult, expensive replacement for what used to be a relatively simple cheap problem. 4 hours Labour at least and possible Cluth replacement. Clutch looks OK to me with plenty of meat on it and uncontaminated with with Hydraulic fluid. Meths should be able to remove any hydraulkic fluid anyway. But that was what was diagnosed. Originally the Ford (Spanish) garage said the Flywheel needed changing 99% certainty but (2) stopped that nonsense. Hopoe everything was put back but from my past experiences with garage personel I ave little confidence that everything is 100%. Will have to wait some days before moving on.

This is aimed at HeadlessChicken but may be useful to others as well. http://www.saynoto0870.com/search.php The name of the page should say it all as 0870 numbers are higher than standard rates. You often get a freephone number or at the very least a Geographical one which can be phoned at normal rates. Using Skype whilst in Belgium, France or Spain it costs me a max of 1.2p/minute to connect in this way. I also have an 0161 *** **** number which rings in my Caravan or wherever I am logged on in Skype for I think its

This topic has been discussed before http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ic=849&hl=SHELL Again Ford dealers are not upto scratch

I had a blow out on my 1600kg Hobby at 60mph and there was no movement, snaking or dramatic movements I presume because of the antisnaking system which clamps the towing ball very effectively and because I did not apply any braking until the speed had fallen off itself. When I did apply pressure to the brakes I did so gently. The caravan and tyres were only 32 months old. It was fitted with 8 ply 185R14 Czech made tyres rated at 850kgs each (102). I had not expected this to happen at this stage. Besides shredding the plastic arch liner and the electrical cables over it, a rather neat hole, 20cm by 12.5cm, was blown in the floor of the caravan to the rear of the tyre. I presume by the reflection of the expanding gases from the road surface as the tyre rotated. That was the worst part of the damage. After tests I protected the underfloor section of both areas using White Polycarbonate Chopping boards ( the larger ones) bought from Tescos. Attached with stainless steel screws. The important change is the Pirelli Citynet Camper tyres which I have now obtained. 8 ply 195/75 R14 rated at 925kgs each (106). Each is in excess of 4kgs heavier than the original tyres fitted because of the extra steel used. Because this extra weight is unsprung I do not consider it to be a problem for the suspension system of the caravan. I did not find the information easily about these tyres. It took me several hours searching before I found the Camper type which have stiffer side walls and are designed to be stood around for longer periods of time than usual. I also had to wait about 2 weeks for delivery because of the demand for them at that time. I will be changing them after 5 years at the most. I do not wish to have a repeat episode despite the precautions I have taken. Michelin do now list a similar tyre rated at the same weights but they tend to be more expensive. Hobby now offer an extra 150kgs of mass on this same model of caravan for 250

I wired to the back of the Cigar lighter socket 4 years ago and I have not overloaded the system/had a fuse blow yet. If it did then I had decided to wire to the Auxiliary Battery position under the passenger seat. I did use a clever dual relay(expensive) from Towsure which switches off the supply to the caravan after predetermined times and when the starter draws current.

I had a conversation with a retired German Volks Service Manager on a campsite in Spain this winter, about the Volks spec Oil. He had a brand new Sharan and had to use the specified oil on a 130bhp 1.9TDI or whatever the labelling bage on the back is. The engine had warnings about this near the Oil filler cap. He was however on EXTENDED service intervals and said that he would use the Volks spec oil to maintain his Volks guarantee. Also he showed (proved to) me that the cambelt change on that model was back to 90,000Km or about 60,000miles. Since I change the oil with a fully synthetic 5W 40's at every 9,000 miles, bought in France (Shell Helix Ultra Diesel, now available as a 0W 30's for even better economy) I have very little worry that I am doing anything amiss. Upto 30,000 miles before an oil change on the extended service pattern frightens the life out of me. :)

Galaxy, Sharan and Alhambra are made in Portugal and systems are tested I believe in the hottest part of Spain- Southern Murcia, Northern Part of Almeria province which contains a Desert the only one in Europe (Spagetti Western country. I tow a 1600kg Hobby caravan in the region, stay upto 9 Months and drive to and from there to Belgium or Southern France with my 2002 115bhp 1.9TDi Ghia Even at 38C outside the temp gauge has never moves/moved off 90C once warmed up, even with the AC fully on. Car is no problem as I am sure the vehicle is more than upto it and from the specs can Tow 2000kg. From the performance at 1600kg towing I'm pretty sure it can. It has plenty in reserve. The only problem with the carI had was one Rh rear tyre after 40,000 miles had worn on the outside edge. Lh rear Ok uniform wear. I switched it for the spare. I notice the same wheel is wearing slightly again on its outside edge after 10,000miles. From what I am told there is no way to adjust this out. I intend to have the tyre reversed on the rim if this is possible to even out the wear. Problem with the caravan in July after travelling 500 miles at around 38C in Spain just before arrival at a campsite 5pm, LH rear tyre, Exploded. (4.5 Bars reinforced tyre-Czeck made 12,000 miles from new, 30 months old, pressured, covered from sun etc.) No excitement as regards stopping, I just allowed it to slow down and come to rest at the roadside, braking gently towards the end. Absolutely rock steady no violent movements whatsoever The plastic inner wheel arch was ripped apart. Several interior electric cables damaged along with a nice 8 inch hole in the double plywood skinned foam sandwich floor, inside a small cupboard housing one of my Home built PC's. The base of which was slighlty domed and in the process 2 IDE boards displaced. Once pushed back and dome flattened it works fine. I'm using it now :rolleyes:

I spent time formatting that last post and its gone now!! i.e. the numbers and words etc don't line up. :P

:P Oh yes it is!! F = 17 = 1111 = 15 Hexadecimal Octal Binary Denary They are all interconnected. Add 1 to each and you get 10 = 20 = 10000 = 16 :D Have Fun :D P.S Hope I got it right!!

I find that Moisture combined with dust or Dirt and rain (most of the rain in Sothern Spain is dirty :lol: ) or just bumpy unmade campsite surfaces covered in small pebbles with undulations can set them off. Usually a good washing down and when dry sorts out the problem. Towbars even with bumper protector plate should no longer be a problem. :lol: