sepulchrave

You only have one liver zip, I'd keep it if I were you! Seriously guys, the laptop idea is great, I think I'm just gonna buy one with a smashed screen off ebay...something with a celeron in it since raw processor power is far less important than having one that runs really cool. Rehouse it in an old desktop case so I can junk the silly tiny 2.5" hard disk and fit a big fat 3.5" one together with a cheapo DVD-ROM drive. Memory is irrelevant since it's only a buffer for streaming from the hard disk. Graphics don't matter since the resolution won't be high, and the onboard sound should be fine once poked through a pre-amp to the car stereo. Use the VGA plug together with a VGA splitter box to feed a couple of cheap LCD screens. Job done... Now how to start without the missus finding out... :16:

I think you'll find that you'll need a Cut-Kwik or perhaps an Oxy-Acetylene torch to remove the Battery tray. It is possible to replace the switch by lying directly underneath the the car and doing it by feel, you'll need strong fingers and tons of patience though, buy the new one first so you can get to know it by touch! :16:

Au contraire, MM. Oxygen toxicity only really occurs in diving situations when breathing the stuff at high effective pressures (>2 ATM), at normal atmosperic pressures it's perfectly safe. Whaddya think they're doing to Wayne Rooney, squirting it over his feet? :16: A pure Nitrogen atmosphere would certainly lead to VERY rapid asphyxiation and death.

Well done, you've already confirmed it. The presence of ANY oil at all in the coolant connections to the oil cooler means that it has failed. The part is not expensive, and it is very easy to change. Drain the oil, fit new oil filter and the new oil cooler, refill with fresh oil (of the correct grade), then flush the cooling system backwards and forwards (ignore any hosepipe bans!), refill with plain water, drive and breathe easily. After a week or so re-flush the cooling system, your thermostat may have problems related to the oil contamination issue, now is a good time to change it if you're not happy, finally refill with the correct water/corrosion inhibitor mixture. Drive serenely and be happy. Forget about the cylinder head! :16:

OK, you're not really up to this are you... The oil cooler is a canister type thingummy which is fitted between the oil filter and the oil fillter mounting, it is simply a heat exchanger allowing the oil to be cooled by the engine coolant, there is no separate radiator. The pipes I referred to are coolant hoses about 1" in diameter, you will see two of them going into the thingummyjig above the oil filter. If you can't identify the part you probably need a garage because we can't really do Motor Mechanics 101 here! :16:

annals, shurely... :huh:

Whoa there, before you start to tear the head apart... I think bigdave might be right, it doesn't matter whether it's a diesel or not (although some vehicle details are often helpful! *hint*); all Mark 1 variants have that damned oil cooler on them, and the problem is not confined to Galaxys etc. It commonly affects most 90's VW's above 1.6 litres. It is easy to check by simply removing both the water hoses from the cooler and running the engine briefly (with oil in it!) to see if oil comes out of the unions, it won't have time to overheat.

Pass the Q-tips, I think I must have quite a build-up in there otherwise I'd prolly be DEAF NOW! :huh:

It could also be the MAF (or the throttle position sensor), disconnect it and see if it improves.

Well you can skip the 'txt' message abbreviations for starters! Some of us are too old to have have a clue what you're on about. :47:

Yes, you're right of course you can use the VW parts from GSF.

S'funny isn't it, nowhere is 'smart charging' technology mentioned in relation to the Galaxy! http://www.boschautoparts.co.uk/pcBatt12.asp?c=2&d=1 Begs the question, is it all a load of old b**locks? I think it may well be. :rolleyes:

Wouldn't touch 'em with a bargepole if I were you. Stick to GSF and get the Brembo/Pagid parts, they're only a little more money for a lot more quality. Don't take chances with Tyres, Brakes, Steering or Suspension. Remember that if you buy cheap you may not live to buy twice! :unsure:

Is it your car? (Sorry, couldn't resist :angry: ) Why not buy a filter from the dealer together with the correct grade of oil!

200k

...about

If your high pressure cut-off switch is faulty then the climatronic display will flash at start-up. It will cut the system out if it is faulty or doing it's job properly. You won't know unless you use Vag-Com, which will show any fault. Are you certain that you have lost gas? I'm not going to repeat myself about seals etc. :lol:

Mike, I think you are referring to the 'linkage' issue, do a search and you'll find details about adjusting the cables somewhere.

I think your compressor may have seized....slightly! :huh:

Ah, a shed-dragger! :D

That's true too, but the received wisdom is that those wretched recycled chinese disks off ebay don't last too well either. I would say that my Sharan is quite dramatically under braked for a 1.75 tonne vehicle capable of 135 mph! After all they are my children and I wouldn't use remoulds either. :D

If all else fails use GRIPFILL!!! :blink:

To be fair, this is a problem which the Golf VR6 community noticed first. Large engine in a small engine bay, with a small frontal area. VW fitted a double depth rad but it's basically the same frontal area as all the other Sharans et al. The engine heats up so quickly of a morning that an auxilliary heater would never be needed even in Antarctica! All that the 70c thermostat does is open fully 10 degrees earlier, reducing the heatsoak phenomenon under normal driving conditions. As soon as you hit a traffic jam it makes no difference at all. With my old thermostat, since I live in the countryside, the temperature needle would hit halfway and then stay there unless heavy traffic were encountered. Now it sits at one third under the same circumstances. More importantly the Oil temp. as indicated by the MFA used to be around 105c, it's now about 97c. I know it doesn't sound a lot, but I can assure you that the torque and flexibility of the engine has improved noticeably, and I swear that I'm getting another MPG or two (and at the current prices that's a big deal!) and I'm equally certain that the oil will be in better condition as a result. I know you weren't calling me a liar, I was just nipping at your 'who's that trip trapping over my bridge' routine. :blink:

Optimized for which climate/market? Don't kid yourself, this (2.8 version) is a low volume model sold throughout Europe from the Artic circle to the Equator! I've said it helps and it does! :huh:

Additionally, I really WOULDN'T buy disks from ebay! Galaxy's warp the best quality disks with monotonous regularity, get some Brembo OE pattern disks from GSF they're really good with the Pagid HD pads, I think I paid about