sepulchrave

TBH Ezra those oil temperatures really don't sound that high for a turbocharged engine, I have the VR6 petrol engine and my MFA oil temperature readings are definitely higher than yours...but they're perfectly normal. I would guess that you have two separate temperature senders: one for the MFA reading and one for the flashing warning light. I'm betting that your warning sender has gone out of spec. and is raising a false alarm.

...not you, tinned-spam! :P

roly, what car do you have? And can you please use some punctuation, as I experienced severe apnoea whilst reading your breathless cry for help! :P

Ford owners......duh! :P

Sorry, I meant 215/60/15 not the 16's. I haven't bothered checking, I'm sure you must be right. :P

I think that you'll find that the 215 tyre is only a recommended fitment for the Gal and some big fat exec motors, and is in fact already reinforced due to it's load rating.

Nik, it doesn't matter because the vast majority of MAF's will be for the TDi's so the total quantity is what matters rather than individual items. In any event Bosch only actually manufacture 19 different MAF's for the entire VW Motronic range and I know that many of these share the same probes in slightly different housings.

Why not stick a pound in the ashtray every time you fill it up, then when you have enough to buy a MAF it'll be time to change it! :D Why don't we use our collective purchasing power to get MAF's cheaper, we could get probes only from Bosch in quantity, after all every new member will need one!

Smoggy, as far as this constellation of Galaxy owners is concerned, if you have a diesel with performance problems... IT'S THE MAF Ok? It is the ONE thing which you can absolutely guarantee will need replacing at some point (usually sooner rather than later) in the cars life. :D

That's not what I meant! The hinges are welded, not bolted and are immovable (I suppose if you had enough people :D ). I will be very surprised if a secondhand door fits properly since the hinges are all in slightly different places to account for slack production tolerances in the bodyshell. When you buy a brand new door it comes sans hinges, and the manufacturer specified bodyshop procedure is to bolt on the new replacements hinges and align manually, then tack weld, remove bolts, weld permanently and paint and finish the new door. The factory fitted hinges are different. I suppose you could strip out the secondhand door and cut off the original hinges before following the above procedure, new doors come pre-drilled with nutserts I think to facilitate the above. That's why. :(

...be aware that you won't be able to get it to fit properly!

Now I know why mo4 has a computer writhing with spyware and viruses :16: I tried this game and nearly caught something nasty while visiting the site... Do yourselves a favour and run your virus checkers and spyware scanners, just in case. Avast! saved my bacon. Kids loved it tho' :16:

...Caught my eye :16: Oggy, have you tried mounting the image using Nero ImageDrive to create a virtual device in your My Computer folder? Can you then access the image as if it were already burned?

Ok Chris, you need VAG-COM...whereabouts in the country are you located, there may be a member nearby with VAG-COM who can help. I am near Brighton on the South coast if that helps. I suspect that your lambda probe may be U/S but can't be sure, the roaring airbox worries me though.

ALERT, ALERT!!!!!!!!!!! Member who may ACTUALLY have dual air-con fitted alert!!!! :19:

I'll second that, definitely a sensor problem. Try cleaning the plug and socket with contact cleaner and connect and disconnect a few times to clean the contacts, TBH the sensor wires tend to fracture right near the plug.

Coolant pressure is obviously being lost throught the damaged oil cooler! It's a two way street after all. A blown head gasket almost always overpressurises the cooling system with combustion gases, this is why a litmus test is used to diagnose a blown head gasket, these dissolved combustion gases are mildly acidic. Yet another reason why you don't have a blown head gasket I'm afraid.

:23: :16: :38: I would think that all the special tools and metrological equipment which you'd need will cost a bit more than

*see edit Aren't they both the same article describing exactly what I 've just explained? Oh bugger it, forget about it...I can't be bothered. Have maximum Troll points. The OP's problem is not the bl**dy gearbox anyway, it's the linkage. So there :16:

Do you mean the VXT75? No, it doesn't, Sychromesh is on the five forward gears only. I will stand corrected if anyone can find a reverse gear synchromesh manual gearbox in commonly available roadgoing vehicles with ONE reverse gear. What Getrag have done is probably fit a single washer with no baulk ring, not really synchromesh at all, rather a simple drag washer to minimise crunch. The vast majority of manual gearboxes have always had straight-cut rather than helical reverse gears, and you can't get synchromesh to work on straight-cut gears since it relies on the lateral thrust generated by the helical gear to load the synchro rings (usually three, I think). Anyway doesn't the OP have a VW 02A box? :16: Why can't I be right, my wife isn't even here! :16:

Guys, there is NO SYNCHROMESH fitted to reverse gears, it doesn't matter how many times you say it it will NEVER be right! There CANNOT be any load on the drivetrain because you are changing into reverse from neutral. Try driving forwards slightly then changing straight into reverse...there did you enjoy the expensive noises it just made? :16: If you two want to troll about on the internet you will find this to be true. :16:

One thing that really bugs me is: Why use an inverter? Your car has 12v DC in abundance, a typical PC needs 12v, 5v and 3.3v DC surely a more elegant and efficient solution must exist? Oh, and 3.5bullet, please what the hell is your sig. on about?

Synchro....on reverse gear??????Are you sure???????? However linkage adjustment sounds a much more likely candidate!

Okey-Dokey Nik.

What about powertrain alignment... how did you accomplish that? Are you sure that it isn't the other way round... As in, it's the battery tray that is supporting the entire gearbox and engine on the n/s!