matmcn

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-FORD-GALAXY-GHIA-X-4X4-V6-AUTO-BLUE-Spares-or-Repairs-/111616435975? The car is being sold as spares or repairs. The gearbox lost all drive whilst away on holiday and during the 3 days it took for the AA to recover they managed to blow the engine oil cooler and the heater matrix. Once the oil cooler has been replaced, the engine runs sweet as a nut and hasn't skipped a beat for the 3 years I've had the car. The two front tyres were fitted just before going away so have only done 150 miles. The two rear have plenty of tread left on them also, both of them pictured Both the center and rear exhaust sections were replaced just after Christmas. Two of the rear seats are the ones that have a booster seat and harness built in. I sold two on here 2 years ago for £70 each. As it is the Ghia it has the heated seats etc. As it has been a family car it has a few scratches and small dents however despite the age there is only a tiny bit of rust by one of the windows. This could be an excellent project for someone who has access to a gearbox and the tools to change. It is the rare four wheel drive, and being the 2.8 V6 goes like a rocket. I would repair it myself however I haven't got the room or the tools for a gearbox repair so am very very reluctantly selling it. I would rather give someone the chance to repair it rather than scrap it. It will need to be towed away or by trailer. Any more information then message me or call 07838 219780.

Did you get a resolution to this issue and if so did you get the filter changed in the gearbox?

I had the tape head with a changer in the boot. The audio amplifier sits under the stereo on mine so if yours is the same then it could be that at fault. The stereo would seem ok even if the amp was faulty.

On mine the tube that comes from the pump in the wing runs under the battery where there is a coupler that connects to another pipe. This then runs up the passenger side, and then up to the brake/accelerator pedal, however I have not traced this as I am trying to find the ECU at the moment. Cant say I've spent much time on it lately as I've been away again with work.

Again check the cables in the gaitors on all 4 doors. When I bough this car there were broken wires in the N/S rear, Drivers and the O/S rear door had cables that were looking close to breaking.

Yes. The speed seed sensor and gearbox speed sensor are the opposite way round on the files you sent me. Luckily the gearbox speed sensor is right on the front so drove up to the shop at 25 mph, got the sensor and changed it right then. Car is driving fine now. Thank you big dog. I have bought a copy of elsawin and am just trying to figure it out. Another quick question, are there a full set of wiring diagrams on there?

Thank you for listing those files big dog. I have tested the sensor at the front (supposedly the Vehicle speed sensor) and it measure anything between 8 and 20 Meg Ohms. Have ordered one today and pick it up tomorrow. Shame the car is up on the stands as it would be interesting to see if the speedo still works with it disconnected. Might try once the new one is in. If possible can you tell me where you got the files from.

Yes, the code comes back immediately after it has been cleared.

I have had intermittent problems with my autobox not going above 2nd gear. If I stopped and turned the ignition off and back on (sometimes a few times) then the car would drive ok. Sometime it would just start working ok on its own. When I had the problem then it goes into 2nd with a thump. Sods law we went shopping on Friday, 30 miles from home and the car now wont even entertain 3rd gear after a dozen times of turning it off. When I plugged the reader in I get code 00281, Vehicle speed sensor, however the speedo is working fine. I have checked and the oil level is still fine since I changed it 2 months ago. Has anybody heard or had similar. Problem is the 2.8v6 4x4 is quite a rare beast.

Definitely check the cables in the rubber gator. I have had a Sharan and a Galaxy. Both back doors on the sharan and the left back door on this Galaxy have had to have cables repaired. I added another inch or so of cable at the break, soldered and covered with heatshrink tubing. All working ok afterwards.

An update on this post. The oil cooler was leaking into the water and vice versa so the oil was running low and what was in there was like chocolate milkshake. Sorted the cooler, drained what oil I could out and left the car over the winter while I was out of the country over Christmas. Came back and emptied out the oil that had drained from the torque converter. Re-filled with 4.5 litres of ATF and gearbox ran sweet as a nut for months. Got a different issue now as it wont go above second gear. Another separate issue I think.

Just to finish this thread, it was the automatic gearbox oil cooler that was the problem. An absolute pig to get to as it was under the battery tray which also holds the engine mount so no removing it without dropping the engine/gearbox. The cooling pipes between the radiator, engine and header tank also had to come off to get to the cooler. After enquiring with various suppliers, including Ford and VW as its a VW box, the cheapest I found was nearly £200. Found one on ebay from America for £63. Swapped out and flushed the coolant system. Still get the odd drop of oil in the water but all sorted now.

Viperclive. I'll be working on it again in april so will let you know.

Im sure I can hear mine clicking behind the glove box or just to the left of the radio. I'd go and check for you but the car's all tucked away in the garage as I about to go away for 4 months. When the cruise control is turned on you should hear it click, even when the car is stationary.

After chasing my backside with gearbox problems it looks like the oil cooler has gone. I have managed to find a part number and Ford dont have any in stock in the UK at £340 each. Has anyone had this issue and know of any alternatives or anything about a mod to replace the cooler?? Its part 18 on the attached document. FORD COOLER.doc

Have you got a fault code reader??

Just found this website which has a brilliant guide with pictures for changing th AT fluid. http://rialtainfo.com/thebaldy/vw/transmission.htm

http://rialtainfo.com/thebaldy/vw/transmission.htm Just found this brilliant website for replacing the AT fluid

Wondering whether its worth the cost of the oil or whether the box is knackered. Bit of a dilema.

Unfortunately I cant seem to upload photo's

Got 3 fault codes for the box, Multi-Function Transmission Range Switch – Malfunction (PRNDL Input)(F125) ATF-Temperature too High Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input(G93) Decided to check and the fluid was low. Pulled the sump off and discovered the chocolate milkshake. Starting to think it may be beyond it!!

The pipe that comes off the CC pump goes to a coupler just under the battery. A right pain in the arse to re-connect. I used a piece of tubing in boiling water and a LONG set of long nose pliers to re-connect it ammong the mass of cables. Just to note after changing the tube I am still trying to get the CC working.

I have a 99 2.8 v6 and when I first bought the car when cold it had a delay in engaging 1st. If on a hill it would sometimes loose drive and the re-engage as I found out whilst trying to drive up some ramps and ended up over the top of them. There is no dipstick or simple fill point on my box so using a cable tie as a dipstick through what is a breather/filler i noticed the fluid seemed low. Using a tube from above the engine I put a litre of AT fluid in and all seemed to have been cured. I drove a couple of hundred miles and then on my way home yesterday at 50 mph I seemed to loose drive and the speed started dropping however the revs remaind the same. eventually it seemed to drop into 3rd from 4th and all was ok again. I stopped at a shop about 15 miles from home and for the rest of the way it was very clunky into 1st, seemed as if it was a slipping clutch and there was a different sound to the box. I moved the car onto my drive this morning and struggled to get it to move both in reverse and drive. half the time there was no drive at all and when there was again it was like a slipping clutch. Any ideas anyone???

Not sure if you've sorted it but I would also suggest the brake switch. Easy enough to change solong as you can bend your wrist in 5 directions at the same time. As for the electrics in the door check the rubber gaiter carrying the wires to the door. A common fault is broken wires within the gaiter. Quick soldering job.

How did you get the pump off the mount within the wing. Was going to pull it off the rubbers but dubious about getting it back on again.