xavier

> I thought that maybe somebody did some welding on the car at some point and this is what did the damage I have a thought. What about heat on the strut nuts to get them loose when replacing either springs or dampers? Had any suspension work done recently? Someone a bit too enthusiastic with the blowtorch, or not paying attention. That's a serious bit of heat, I think you're looking at replacement, for that section anyway. Halfords have washer hose IIRC, sure I saw some last time I was in looking for hose bandages. Also get some self-amalgamating tape from screwfix, great stuff that. by the way, I re-read my post, glad you read it as I intended (looking for pics of the problem hose), rather than as pics of you getting soaked.

Apologies, but this had me in hysterics >Unfortunately my wife pulled the washer stalk again and I took a proper facefull of washer fluid Can you take any pics? I'd suggest you either try and join the 2 bits of pipe or you use the existing pipe to pull through a new pipe into the correct position. Note, I've not done this or had a look at the area, just trying to come up with ideas!

Ade66, does the car only go into limp mode if you take the revs over 3000, or will it go into limp mode at lower revs?

thanks for the info on the pollen filters guys!

> I was so grateful I found myself talked into helping him with a clutch on an old transit tomorrow. I bet you that won't take 2 minutes!

How much between min and max. Actually, IIRC there isn't a "MAX" written on it is there, it's just a hatched area which is difficult to see under the tar-like substance that passes for engine oil in these things.

Mine are complete rubbish too. Plugging into VCDS did identify an obstruction with the motor which I need to investigate (I think you can get it out from behind the glove box. I would be interested in knowing where I can get a pollen filter for £12 though!

There's a haynes manual available for the galaxy which shows the procedure (apologies if you were already aware of this). In the end I got a garage to do mine rather than DIY, given the hassle they had I'm glad I did.

> Hello friends, I dont have a galaxy, but i have a sister... Sharan 1.9 TDi 2004. I had this problem on my heater... grey smoke from the heater... Read though this thread, somewhere in the other 34 pages there is information on replacing the burner gauze in the combustion chamber, you'll need some gaskets and have to strip the unit down further. Have a look at the video posted further up!

Just an idea but why not cut the old one off, strip the ends of the wires and either crimp some connectors on or use an electrical connector strip connector to wire in the new one? Thats if you just want to replace the relay of course.

> it was turning over before it went to ford and all they did was disconnect the alarm system (no immobiliser was fitted in the first place and they said they checked the relays Are you sure there's not an immobiliser on these? I thought it was standard equipment. Parkers lists it as standard here : http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/reviews/ford/galaxy/estate-1995/safety-reliability/ You also have an alarm, my guess would be immobiliser, can they / you reconnect the alarm system?

chris, maybe he electrocuted himself! That's a long minute. You ok dude? I used to have to do this with an old Dastun I had, used an adjustable wrench to short the terminals.

is the handbrake returning fully to the floor?

Have you got any code from VAG COM? Sounds like the turbo is coked up, mine was better after running on shell v-power performance diesel (and towing a caravan a couple of times!), though since it's started doing it again recently, I'm back to do driving keeping the revs below 3K, until I get the caravan out.

Thanks Seatkid - I had seen the servicing vid before, thought it would be a useful guide to what to expect when I'm in there - if I ever get in there! Picked up on chris's tip of using some 22mm copper pipe to join the 2 heater pipes together, I presume I need to clamp the diesel line shut or cap the end using something. Then I can get the heater off the car, strip down properly and replace gaskets rather than just doing the glow plug. Having said that, with the exhaust ports falling off this one I might resort to a second hand unit from another car.

> hey you wernt expecting this job to be easy was you? No, but after starting the job and realising the exhaust port had corroded away from the heater, shearing the 2 bolts that held the bottom cover on, taking over an hour to get the multi plug apart, I figured my luck had to kick in sometime! So, any tips on removing rounded torx screws?!

Stripped the head off the 1st torx screw, so looks like I'll need to sort it on the bench.

Thanks for the link to the other pics. If you look at pic 7, the cable disappears up past the sill, and you can see some wires which is probably where it enters the connector. In hindsight removing the connector from the cage rather than separating the plug / socket would have been better. The connector needs removed anyway to allow the cable to be moved to let the cage to slide off easily.

Ok, got the connector off, have taken some pics to help others. Also once I got it down I figured out the disparity between length. My connector plug was still mounted on the cage the heater sits in, the pics I see in Mirez's excellent PDF guide the connector has been removed. Having a cuppa before I tackle the torx screws, think I'll need the impact driver.

Thanks Chrispb. Cable definately isn't long enough, I've tried to pull some slack through where it passes through the bodywork but there is no slack. The cable and connector doesn't come down as far enough to even pass the sill. I'll take some pics, want some anyway of the plug incase people have the same problem as me! Right, once more into the breach, what I'd give for a warm garage to do this in! And a ramp!

Attempted this today, bad light stopped play (probably just as well as I was about to do something I'd probably regret). Usual sheared bolts, biggest problem I have is I can't disconnect the multiplug to allow me to lower the heater, the thing won't budge. Copying from a previous post : "The single biggest problem I ran into was getting the electrical connector disconnected from the heater before lowering the heater down from the vehicle. I'm completely unfamiliar with these connectors and I must have spent the best part of an hour trying to get the thing disconnected. It's very awkward to get at and you can't get a good purchase to pull plug and socket apart and if you don't even understand how the connector works, it makes it even more difficult. In the end, out of desperation, I more or less prised it apart with a big screwdriver and fortunately this didn't destroy it." Has anyone got a pic of the plug disconnected, it's not even obvious where I should insert said big bloody screwdriver! Some of the other guides suggest I should be able to lower the heater enough to get access to the plug, but I can't get it down far enough. Any tips welcome!

I had a car years ago with a dodgy fuel guage, just filled it to the brim every 300 miles or so. Interestingly after a couple of years I actually fixed the problem, turned out to be a corroded connection to the sender unit.

#antzatgalaxy - rotflmao! > My local company of the same name could not believe that I had a Mark TWO Galaxy registered in 2006. Wouldn't surprise me if it was them that sold you it! Evans Halfrauds.

I don't know if VAG works with windows 7, you might need to install xp or 2k to get it working. I installed vcds at the weekend following the instructions I got with my cable from gendan and had it up and running in 20 mins. Could also read aux heater codes with vcds.

I was towing recently (swift charisma 525 - possibly!), there on a calm day- quite happy to go into 6th - and back on a windy day - stayed in 5th. Just see how she is towing and what she seems more stable comfortable at. Watch the engine temps too I guess. Helpfully my handbrake cable went at the start of the return journey, thankfully not far to go and all dual carriageway.