jimjamjo

Cheers M8y It shows 700-900 rpm as its cranked and then dies as soon as you let go. But it does kick out a smoke cloud while being towed in gear. Is the door LED a clue? yes the nut was in the downpipe - couldn't fish it out with a magnet

still getting plenty of smoke out of the exhaust but I did drop a nut down the exhaust pipe when I changed the manifold gasket a few weeks ago :unsure:

Cheers MM So once the immobiliser cuts there wouldn't be any fuel? Thats not the case - there's loads of unburned vapour coming out the back as we tow it and there's all the soot on the floor. Also there's fuel spurting out when you bleed and injector door LED ?

well - I'd got through 1/8 of a tank before it suddenly died on Saturday. I've double checked the receipt and it was diesel :)

Cheers but its almost definately not timing. Its run really smoothly for the past couple of weeks - starting straightaway. The belt looks tight on the cogs and the engine feels smooth as its being towed. I've just checked the tippex is still there on the cam and fuel cogs and line up with the tippex on the backing plate so thats not it

Bugger... This is a nightmare - looks like the fuel was a red herring. There was an o-ring in place just didn't see it. Anyway, its very unlikely that its fuel related. I've cracked and bleed 2 injectors and there's fuel spurting out. Just towed the car round the block and it just wont start - revs go up to 1100 while in gear but doesn't feel like its firing. Dies as soon a clutch goes in Has it got an immobilizer or could some electrical short cause this?

Just about to fit the o ring etc There's a big patch of black soot on the floor from the exhaust after the last time I tried turning it over - any ideas :)

Hi Bigdaddy Sorry to put a possible spanner in your engine but you need to check whether vag.com works with the petrol Gal. I looked into it and there's 3 manufacturer specs for the OBD2 plug. VW and pals have one spec (ISO) and Fords tend to have another I emailed Ross Tech and got a response from Andy Smth: Andy@Ross-Tech.com "VAG-COM works fine with the VW Sharan TDI, which is nearly identical to the Galaxy. We only guarantee that VAG-COM works with VW/Audi/SEAT/Skoda but it should work fine with your Ford Galaxy TDI. Regards, Andy"

Starting with Cold start and almost runs by itself Looks like some airs getting in the pipe. Just checked the fuel filter and cant see a sealing o ring :o

:o ok cheers

No - it almost starts. I'm gonna bleed an injector and try some Cold Start when the batterys a bit stronger

When I came to take off relay 109, it was part way out of its socket so that could be the cause? Just recharged the battery and it almost started before I ran the battery down. Plenty of bubbles clearing through the fuel line from when the AA disconnected the filter.

picked one up ;)

Could it be a closed EGR anti -shudder valve? I'm getting the glowplug light as normal so probably not relay 109? Any help much appreciated

apparently its relay 109 not 30 http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=116708&page=2 god knows what to test for on it though

Thanks mate So it looks like the freeware will list all the fault codes and can clear them? A couple of more questions -The OBDII leads on fleaBay are for either Ford or VW - which one is right for the Galaxy? -Is the Galaxy in a drop down list when you plug the thing in?

Hi Oggy How's this lead working out for you? Have you paid the $99 for the software Cheers

Hi We left the Trafford Centre at 9.30 tonight and got about 400 yards before the engine suddenly died. Tried bumping it as the speedo went down but nothing. Electrics all fine and no warning lights. Full tank of diesel 3 days ago. Turned over fine and oil light out within 3 secs. Checked the long row of fuses under the steering wheel and the couple near the battery. Engine bay wiring seemed intact. Thats as far as I got with no torch and 0 degrees outside. :D AA arrived and checked it over - -checked battery +ve -checked injection pump +ve -loosened injector pipes and saw fuel leaking out when I turned over the engine -Opened the air filter casing and shone a torch into the sensor pipe -resorted to Cold Start in the air intake which started the engine but died as soon as he stopped spraying -disconnected the outlet on the fuel filter and put a pump thing inline with the fuel pipe He then gave up and towed us home even though we only had basic cover. Any ideas - could it be relay 30 and what does it do? Cheers

reverse gear clutch plates worn?

Depends if you are glaze breaking or trying to remove a lip. I checked several sites which recommended at least 30 seconds on each bore, at least 14 strokes

I've looked at the title of this post and thought I've give some background on the rebuild and the car - it had done 120k as a taxi when I got it. The engine was always clean and quiet when running... apart from pinking under load. I changed the oil and filter every 10k and did 40k in 3 years. This summer we took it up to the Lakes and over the infamous Hard-Knott pass. It overheated on the pass with the needle touching the red. I've got an old TR6 so didn't think the needle touching the red was a big deal :blink: Anyway, a couple of weeks later, I noticed it running rough at the end of a long journey. Next day, I started it up, oil smoke everywhere, smoke out of the dip stick and missing a cylinder. Chap from the AA said that it would get worse if we tried driving it home so... we drove it home 100miles. Surprisingly, it got much better on the motorway. Took it apart and found a lot of carbon, the piston crowns all had hairline cracks - the worst on cylinder 3 which you could put a fingernail in. The bores looked ok but on 3 it looked like there was a blow by on the top ring. 3 piston looked like the top ring was pinched in at one side with no play. Also, I'd never checked the coolant - looked like drinking water when I drained the system. Got some new German std pistons for

Hi MM I took the head to a workshop - I'd trust the guy though - very competent. Going back to the bores - when I took the old pistons out there was still some crosshatching from new. I gave each cylinder about 40 secs with a honer on the std medium stone (after removing the piston cooling jets) using plenty of brake fluid as lubricant. I ended up with a pretty coarse finish although it was hard to get a crosshatch more than 40 degrees as I didn't have a slow drill. So I think the smoke on the first 100 miles was due to oil planing up the coarse crosshatching.

It only smokes first thing in the morning - there's a puff when you first start it which makes me think that oils draining down rather than creeping up the sides of the bore overnight?

I've had another look in TIS and the posh mk2 has a whole chapter dedicated to fault finding on the booster heater 412-02B. Oggy - pick up a TIS disc on eBay if you haven't got one already Cheers jimjamjo

Ford TIS section 34-03 - the mk1 booster heater section. Does it work for the Mk2? - good question - I'd like to know if you can fit the mk2 in a mk1 and get the extra 2kw :o as I'm in an Igloo for 15mins every morning The mk2 section doesn't have the diagnostics but the unit looks very similar....