widu13

It's for the rear heater matey. In summer it just helps push the conditioned air around.

Is the dist box behind the glovebox. I've had a quick shuftie and it looks like a lower dash off job. No info on TIS of course :lol: Does anyone know the best way to get at it?

I've not looked at the dist box before- is it difficult to get to?

Of course, I should've thought a bit more laterally! :rolleyes: Probbly won't be before tomorrow now before I give it a whirl. Thanks again.

Thanks for the ideas chaps. Scuttles- I've no issue in the rain with condensation and it's been the hottest part of the year so far and the aircon was working without the water in the footwells before the service. Does the aircon dump into the scuttles? As for the air box, I've just taken said part out totally and there are no drain hoses attached to it. There are two moulded holes which vent directly into the engine compartment. It's also too far forward in the bay to be involved with any possible condensation issues and is dry as a bone. With the air box out and the cosmetic engine cover removed I've been unable to identify the drain hose. I'm okay with mechanics but haven't a clue about aircon, but cannot see anything which could be a drain hose. Any clarification or further help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

After some help please. My aircon works and works quite well until now. I've just had a service done (3 days ago) on my 2003 TDi. On the way back going around a corner a LOAD of water was dumped onto my left foot on the drivers side as I was resting it on the foot rest. I thought it was a fluke of the aircon, but today it dumped a lot of ice cold water on my left foot again and also in the passenger footwell. It doesn't appear to be coming from the footwell vents, but above them. I realise that for some reason the dump pipe(s?) are now not exiting the vehicle (Hmmph, I wonder whose fault that is?!) but where are they? Hopefully, no-ones going to tell me my compressor's knackered or something!!

Sorry if anyone else has posted on this but halfords are doing a promo and knockng this out for 21 quid in 5 litre containers- got myself 10 litres...bargain.

Did you ever get this sorted? I've got exactly the same issue with mine. Did pads and discs, cracked nipple to push piston back. Then bled, no bubbles but also pedal not firm, re-bled twice still no difference. It balks me the thought of having to pay someone to do the easy bit!

I've used a 33% mix in my '03 130 for a few months now. The PD engine, from an internet search; is really rated as a Straight Veg Oil (SVO) user. I get it from the cash and carry for under 50p a litre and I've registered with Customs and Excise and pay 28 ppl for the 7 litres or so I use per month ^_^ . If I'm dipped I'm legal with C&E paperwork confirming I am a registered fuel supplier. The send you a form to send in each month with your remittance, however they themselves are proposing to drop the taxing of it this summer, so it'll be 50 ppl. A search of the internet will reveal that (almost) all recognise the fact that diesels run better and cleaner with lower emissions (proven on MOT tests) on a percentage mix of SVO or straight boidiesel (refined cooking oil). Do you know for instance that the Diesel engine was invented and designed (and did run on) peanut oil? The petrochem companies quickly developed a Dino fuel as then, it was cheaper...it still is but the taxes aren't :rolleyes: No mods are required but as it is slightly thicker than diesel before being warmed by the engine I won't go more than the 33% mix. It smells better, seems smoother, same economy but as it cleans out the rubbish from the tank and lines 2 fuel filter changes a year may be prudent, but as we all know they are a doddle anyway. HTH.

If you got a genuine kit (VW, FORD, SEAT) the new 60k intervals now apply.

Can't find the answer to the above anywhere and TIS is about as much use as a chocolate fireguard again :ph34r: The switch is sticking when pushed in. I thought it may just be dirty, so cleaned it and gave it a touch of silicone spray which didn't work. I removed the stereo and whilst I couldn't see a way of removing the switch discovered that something has worked loose on the rear of the switch as when I touched it something metallic fell of and disappeared under the dash :unsure: The switch also moves slightly in it's home- the others do not. Guidance greatfully received.

For the front lights, removing the entire lamp assembly is deffo the way to go. There are 3 screws holding in the lamp on a T20 screw the rear one requires a long reach driver. It is quite fiddly but better than the flaps. Aim for 5-10 mins each side. I did once however, change the headlamp bulbs with removing anything apart from the plastic cosmetic bits on top- what a nightmare and what a chump for doing it :)

I thought this may be of some use (to someone): About a year ago I had a Fraud dealer fit a complete new aircon. A few days after having it back I had a loss of turbo / power just like a MAF problem. I took it back to Frauds who had it for a day, but proclaimed they could not find anything wrong. The Gal was returned fully working and has been until yesterday when I hear a short rattling whilst driving. I drove normally until I found a safe place to stop (on a 1 in 7 hill) and could see anything amiss under the bonnet. However I had extreme difficulty in pulling away, like I was in 3rd or even 4th. Anyway it had a total lack of turbo and stopped by a local garge who hooked it up to the Snap On computer which diagnosed the turbo. Boolacks thought I. Anyway a quck removal of the sump pan revealed that the turbo waste gate pipe had somehow come completely off. The crush clip was not particularly in good nick so it was replaced and the pipe refiited. All is now well. For those without VAGCOM this might be a consideration before shelling out on a MAF.

All done and dusted.

I know that this is the 40k + cambelt thread, but may I borrow it and ask who's had the best price for cambelt and rollers only ie no service. (Not inc the DIYers. I did an old Skoda and an old Polo but that's my limit!) I'm still waiting on the chap who previously quoted

Thans SK

Small wonder..... as its usually the tensioner or idler roller that fails.....thats why THESE ITEMS SHOULD BE CHANGED along with the cambelt.....err the price of those bits is somewhat more than the belt. :25: Is that recommended or listed for replacement?

Just got a quote from a small non franchaised garage. From the workshop manual- 2 1/2 hrs for a 130 plus the belt, that'll be

Already checked the FAQ, but I think that the air being blown is only COOL not COLD. It is definately NOT as cold as it used to be.

Sorry for yet more aircon questions. Mine is working but badly! My entire (everything) aircon system was replaced last September when the compressor expired and metal swarthes were circulated around the system. Before this it was ice cold and is now running noticeably warmer. I compared it against the Gal at work (6 months older) which was also ice cold. I booked in in the following month and was told it was running at spec at 6 C. I told them I found that difficult to believe as it was performing so poorly (even in October), but they maintained their stance. Following the hot weather when it made only a slight difference when on speed 3 or 4 on the fan, the tempreature still hot enough inside to be only barely comfortable, I booked it back in today. I have just brought it back. They had it for literally 15 mins and didn't have it in the workshop before announcing to me that it was running at spec at 6 C. I told the receptionist that I wasn't happy and she said anything between 3-8 C was acceptable but they would regas it for me at a charge which should lower the temp by up to 2 C. I said shouldn't the gas be good for 2 yrs and she said yes! They wouldn't budge, saying it is fine. Comments, ideas?

The skin just crashed my system...twice :unsure:

A small review: I got mine from Seamarknunn costing

Open a new window, resize and position it and then whilst holding down Ctrl close it and when you open a new window next time it should have defaulted to full size.

Belated congrats. :10: