Scorpiorefugee

Last heard of in the early evening of Valentines day... B)

I second that. I've only had mine 8 months but, until the cold weather started, I was getting 46/47 but that has droppd to 40ish and I do mostly long runs. An important consideration is the Aux. heater. I only found out that mine actually worked about a month ago and now, partially because of a coolant temperature sender fault, the ###### thing is on permanently. Nice and warm within a couple of miles or so but I can only get 600 miles to a tankful now. :ph34r: Seriously, cold weather does make a considerable difference, 10 - 20% but you may have a problem. Is everything else behaving normally? Ron.

At risk of becoming a total bore... :lol: It does look as if your motor has some history. I,ve had a look at diagrams of the steering rack and Seatkid is right about the difficulty bit but, racking my brains, the easiest way to check if the steering arms are balanced is to count threads on the rods although somone who knows about this particular rack may know better. I have to say that my most recent experience of this type of problem was some years ago and since then I have stuck to the principle "If it aint broke, don't let ANYONE near it" and I've had about a million miles of relatively trouble free motoring since. Also, if anyone tells you it's broke, get a second opinion. I am sure that everything that has been said is more or less true but, they would have been balanced from new and the steering wheel would have been centred from new so the one should work with the other to give a reliable starting point. Remember that any final setting should be in equal increments to both sides. The most likely causes of your problem are man made or serious bang. Serious bang I cannot help with but if it is man made, through ignorance probably, then this is the most likely place and the easiest to check and, since it is the centre of the steering mechanism, the first place to start. Sorry to go on but I've seen so many instances of long and fruitless attempts at repair because the basics had been taken for granted. Again, good luck. Ron. :ph34r:

Are you sure that they didn't just swap them over? :rolleyes: My right hand fan was screeching somewhat a month or so ago. It was getting a lot of exercise because of a problem, now solved - I hope, but I gave it a good dose of neglect for a few weeks and it gave up complaining and now works beautifully. Just out of interest, how do you get one to come on in this weather unless you've got the same silly fault that I had? Ron. Er.. Are you looking from the front or the back and does it really matter?

It's intuitive, if you're a 5 year old. If you're an intellgent adult, it's incomprehensible. Keep at it. it's well worth it 'cos it's all there. It's difficult to advise because I don't know how far you've got but try moving your mouse slowly over the icons - top left and click on each in turn, keeping an eye on the model selection. Use the right hand icon on the bottom row to go back one step and look for the blocked right pointing arrows on some of the pages (some of which scroll down for miles!) to find more infomation. Be patient, drink lots off coffee. IT IS worth it. Ron.

Done!!!!! ;) ;) ;) Glow plugs now work. :D :D :) Cause:- Engine temperature sender. :D :) B) Background:- I eventually found the fuse with the help of a TIS disk I got for my old Scorpio which also covers the Gal and gave just enough info to confirm and clarify all of the information that everyone had helpfully provided. It took a little time to prove that the control unit was not operating the relay. It took a re-read of the TIS technical description to decide that the most likely culprit was the temperature sender which I had discounted because the temperature display was working normally but was not aware that it had two sensors, the other being used by the control system. I have not yet removed the thing for test/replacement and assume that it was signalling that the engine was in fact too hot to need glow plugs. This would also account for the fact that the radiator fan has always come on after switching off irrespective of the temperature. I am assuming that, once the temperature sender has been replaced, I may see a considerable improvement in performance. My thanks go to SeatKid for all of the useful information in the early days, especially the "girl's blouse" bit, and to Masked Marauder and Wright476 (wherever you are) for both suggesting the temperature sender, information which I discounted originally because I could not see how that would stop the glow plug circuit completely, even though the light was coming on for about a second and a half. Finally to VR6.. for pointing out that it is important to find the correct information for the age of the car. Finally, my biggest fright came early on when, looking for the other levels of the fuse panel, I removed six screw and ended up with the control printed board in my hand, naked, alive and ticking as it were, with the light fading, rain coming on and an early start on a 500 mile round trip the next morning. We do live and learn, don't we. :) B) :D Just one question now. The TIS information suggests that mine is a 110HP unit but the label on the timing chan cover is all scuffed off. Is there any other way of checking? I can't find anything on the block that is readable.

Well, I finally got down to it. I've included a picture but it's not too clear as I've been too busy looking for fuses to figure out how to get a good quality picture onto the site. The 60A glow plug fuse is in the centre and the relay is bottom right of the same panel. The panel hanging at a rakish angle to left clips into place in front of the one in the middle and the plastic, bottom rightish, contains the control module and the whole caboodle sort of pushes back and swings upwards. There are 2 plastic lugs at the bottom left and right of this assembly slot (with considerable effort) into slots in the metal frame. The nasty looking clip at the top gets in the way throughoput but finally holds the whole thing upright to present the fuses in the way that are normally seen. The thick cable coming down from top right has two tight cable clips which have to be cut before you can get anywhere near this view. Sadly, all was in vain as the problem lay elsewhere. :)

Sorry to keep coming back on this. Your symptoms are an exact match on what I had several years ago. I'd had 2 or 3 lots of tracking. In desperation, I got under and balanced the two arms - (1/4 ") as I remember. Set the tracking by hand using a telescopic tube and trial and error. Amazingly, the wheel was now centred! Went back and got the tracking done under supervision. No more trouble. I can only tell it as it happened. However Tim-spam and the others are all correct. Steering geometry is a matter of minute measurements and all of the vertical, horizontal and fore/aft positions have to be exactly right! Again - good luck. Ron.

All that remains is to worry about how it got to this stage. I don't like 'probably' but there are times when we must accept it. Hope you don't get a repeat but at least you know what to do next time. <_<

I'm a little confused. Is the pump electrical or mechanical? I had a problem with a scorpio once where the immobilser box had an intermittent fault which broke the feed to the pump and since you seem to have some warning lights I wonder if this might be worth exploring. Re cranking - I had a similar problem a week ago, caused by a lack of fuel and steep slope. In my case cranking steadily for about 2 minutes did it but the total cranking time was nearer 10. Ron.

Doesn't all this show what a useless lot Ford dealers are! I was assured that mine was a chain and needed no maintenance. And what on earth are thay thinking of fitting belts anyway. I've had chains on all my cars, doing on average 200k of trouble free careful neglect. Perhaps thats why.... It forces us to take them back so thay can fit more faults. :( :) :(

Good. There's nothing like a good exchange of views to get things straight (Pardon the pun) In the past I've been forced to extreme measures to avoid paying

Er... What if the steering wheel has been removed and fitted in the wrong position? When I said "If they did it in that sequence", I was referring to what the garage did. I meant that the steering wheel should be removed and fitted in the centre position after my suggested procedure. If the steering wheel and mechanism has not been disturbed from new, either by hand or damage, then everything else is fine. My suggested procedure assumes the worst and gives a totally reliable starting point for further investigation. I've learned two things about steering and fault finding in general. Never assume that an "expert" fully understands mathematics and, in particular geometry. In fact very few do. In fault finding, you need to go back to basics to establish at least one thing you can rely on. I'm only trying to be helpful.. Ron. PS Expert = Ex + Spert. Ex = "has been" Spurt = "drip under pressure." spot the deliberate mistake.

If they did it in that sequence, that would put things out of balance. I believe that the correct sequence is to do the tracking from both sides and make sure that the two arms are equal at the end. Then centre the steering wheel. If all osf this is necessary, something pretty major has happened. I understand that if the two arms aren't equal, the tracking may be correct straight ahead but the geometry will be wrong on corners. If you look at the angles from underneath you may be able to understand this possible problem. It's a matter of seeing how the distance between the ball joint at the wheel end and a fixed point on the rod coming out of the rack changes as the wheel is turned and the arm angle changes. This helps to make sure that the outer wheel on a corner turns less than the inner one This effect must be the same on both sides and this can only happen if the rods are of equal length measured ball joint to ball joint. Normally, any adjusment required will be minimal and can be done from one side only but, if major work has been done.......???? I may be wide of the mark here but the importance is there and it is relatively easy to check if you can get underneath. more than 1/8" difference needs sorting.

If they are that bad they may not have made sure that the tracking adjustment rods (Don't know the proper term) are of equal length. If your motor has had serious work, as seems likely, they may be far enough out to completely wreck the feel of the thing. I'm sure that SK and the others know more about this than I do but I have had a nasty experience many years ago.

We live and learn don't we. Uphill seems OK. Downhill and less than 1/4 tank is iffy. Did I ever say "Sorry for that" SK? Ron.

MP3 files are audio files which take up typically 1/10 space of a normal CD file and you can get shareware/freeware utilities which will read a CD and convert the files either in real time or much more rapidly - typically 2 or 3 minutes for a full CD. These files can be written to a recordable CD in one go once you have accumulated 640M of files using the standard PC file directory structure to separate the various CDs or tracks if you want to go to that level. Keep your names short because the players I have experience of only display about a dozen letters. You will need a CD radio which is MP3 compatible and I have found Panasonic or JVC to be cheap and reliable with 40W per 4 channels of good quality sound. price

That could be the answer. If you're feeding it Daniel O'donnell it probably just fell asleep. :D Just out of interest. I replaced mine with an MP3 compatible CD player and now have my entire (and totally tasteless) collection of driving music comprising about 100 CDs onto 8 recordable CDs and one CD gives a whole day of freedom from D Js. :rolleyes:

Thanks again VR6.. I've included a picture on a previous linked problem ans added a short post to bring it back to the top to save storing th same pic twice. Just to update - I've counted fuses and there are 26 positions in the top row (not all occupied) 25 and 26 being 10 and 30A respectively. I've removed the fuse panel, not under ideal conditions, and could not see how a second level with fuses and relays could exist in the space available. I replaced it quickly because the exposed printed circuit made me nervous with the battery still connected and a long trip the following day.. I still cannot see an extra box in the engine compartment as described by Haynes although I haven't started to strip things out to look in unlikely places. Any info is much appreciated and thanks again. Ron.

Just a quick reply to bring it back to the top so VR6.. can see the fuse box.

Thanks VR6. Unfortunately I am still doing blouse impressions. Haynes says that the fuse in that position is F25 but I haven't found it in the wiring diag's yet. :D The cover states that the fuse in that position is F26 and it is in fact a 30A intact. The wiring diagram (12.31) in Haynes indicates that the fuse I need to find is F74 as confirmed by SeatKid. This is a 60A.... But I can't find it!! ....'Sob' :( :( :( SeatKid explains that it is on a panel behind the fuseboard behind the facia with the others but Haynes says that there is another panel in the engine compartment. :D :D :D I now believe that this is a very grubby, corroded and otherwise unlikely looking box next to and in front of the battery and shall attack this tomorrow morning. :blink: :blink: :blink:

I have 2 galaxy TDIs. The old banger with 160k drives like a dream, dead straight and solid on all surfaces and cambers. The 3 year old with 60K just doesn't compare and, while it doesn't do anything really nasty, suffers from cambers and worn or subsided surfaces. The supplier, a ford dealer assured me that everything is as it should be but that means nothing. The oldie has new Avons having done 20k and loads left. The new one has some Japanese FLILKEN or some such and are half worn and slightly scrubbed. The problem is, as always with these things, what is normal and what is caused by mismatched or worn tyres. It seems that three out of three here have a similar problem. How about anyone else? Ron.

Please please please! The D@##%&d Glow plug fuse and relay I've looked everywhere for it. Haynes is typically vague on the subject so I suppose they couldn't find it either. Seatkid has been amazingly helpful but has now gone quiet after calling me a 'Big girl's blouse' which, after all of his help to date, I think he has a perfect right to. It seems that the handbook, if I had one, would suggest taking it to a Ford dealer, but all of the sages here seem reluctant to suggest that course for anything. Mine is a 97 GLS TDI and probably pre dual layer fuse box (I think). Re the 'big girl's blouse', I once ran out of petrol in the wilds of Lincolnshire and got out and under to remove the gauge sender unit to bend the pipe down to reach the remaining fuel before driving 15 miles to the nearest fillling station so can I plead a downgrade to small girl's blouse please? Ron. PS Does anyone have a suitable handbook for sale or rent?

This topic saved my sanity. Tuesday morning, after arriving home late on Monday in the pouring rain, front wipers completely dead. Checked all fuses and began to panic but found this and resolved to investigate in the daylight. Thursday morning, wipers suddenly started - a bit hesitant at first but settled down after a few minutes and OK ever since. Today, I took out the bulkhead extension and everything was dry but, looking at the bulge under the wiper motor, I think that water will run back and out on the level but on my 1 in 4 drive a fair old puddle will form under and around the wiper motor. I drilled a couple of 5mm drainage holes before putting it back. And now the questions.. Is this a common problem and, if so, why is this the only post I've found on the subject. If this wasn't the cause of my problem, please, does anyone know of another possibility 'cos my wipers could now be a serious liability. And just for interest.. It seems that if you park 'em nose down on a hill in the rain, theres a chance you wipers won't work in the morning. It also seems that if you park em nose down an a hill and leavem ticking over for a while, you can run out of fuel even if your gauge shows 1/4 tank on the level. Are there any more little tricks like that? Ron.

You should go on one of the quiz programs with Galaxy as your speciality. :huh: