cprob

After changing all the vacuum hoses the car is still running great. I re-ran the Vag Com today (after clearing all the old fault codes first) and now the following fault code is coming up: 65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error 37-00 - Faulty This is the same number (65535) as I previously got although the wording is now slightly different (see first post). Can anyone advise please what this fault code means and should I worry about it? After all, the car is running fine now with no signs of any problems ... touch wood! Cheers, Robin.

Yes, the MAP hose is under pressure not vacuum. I left the spring clamp off the large 90

Have a look here: http://www.rotationuk.com/gbu0-display/tyre_load_ratings.html A Galaxy is about 2500kgs which is 625kgs per wheel ... without any people/luggage etc. I always fit tyres with a load rating of 98 which have a load rating of 750kgs.

Don't forget the short hose inside the ECU :blink: Just changed all the vacuum hoses (but not the MAP hose or the short hose inside the ECU) and thought I'd take the old Gal for a test run. Are you ready for this??? ...... I think she's fixed!!! I couldn't get her to go into the dreaded 'limp mode', she kept full power and full revs :D Some of the hoses that I took off were really badly deteriorated. Although they appeared to hold a vacuum there may have been a small leak or they could have been collapsing (they really were bad, particularly the two going to the turbo). I won't bother with the MAP hose at the moment and I'll see how she goes over the next week or so. She's done 180,000 miles (160,000 with me over the last 12 years) and here's hoping we'll do plenty more yet! I've got a 600 mile trip to do next week and I'll post again to let you know how she goes. Many thanks for all the great advice. Cheers, Robin.

My new vacuum hoses arrived this morning so I'm going out now for a play. Although I'm confident I haven't any leaks as I can put the hoses under vacuum and they hold ok .... which doesn't indicate a leak to me!! My concern is that a hose may be collapsing under vacuum which causes the car to go into limp mode. Before I go through the pain of changing the MAP hose, I intend to run a new hose through the window just to see if it fixes the problem first. I'll update again later but in the mean time, any advice is welcome!!!! Cheers, Robin.

Thanks Shugs, I'll check the connector. When my ABS light was on it was a broken reluctor ring.

I have a related problem and would appreciate some pointers please; My brake lights work absolutely fine except the warning lights on the dash are always on when the headlights are on. If I turn the headlights off the warning lights go out .. but only after the brake pedal is pushed. It's been like this for years but it would be good to get it sorted. I'm thinking it's probably the warning light control module but before I replace it could it be anything else? On a lighter note, my last MOT failed due to the brake lights not working at all. The garage said they had tested the switch etc and they couldn't fix it and that it would need an auto electrician as there must be something really wrong with the system. I checked it out, replaced the switch and everything was back to normal and working fine again (apart from those warning lights). The garage wasn't amused when I told them they had been testing the cruise control switch in error!!!!!!! :35: :) :lol: Cheers, Robin.

It might be an idea to run a new pipe outside the car (through the window) first just to try it. It may save a lot of time and agro if you find out it doesn't make any difference!

Whan my ABS light was on it turned out to be a broken reluctor ring ... which of course is on the driveshaft. Worth a quick check. As for the handbrake light, I would imagine it would be a dodgy switch. Should be quite simple to trace and fix whatever it is.

Thanks New Nige, that is really useful. I'll check this out and hopefully it will sort the problem once and for all. I'll let you know how I get on with removing the ECU etc. Cheers, Robin.

The EGR was indeed easy to get off and clean. Although it made no difference to my problem!! I'm still losing power .... huge sigh :-( I'm increasingly thinking it's the ECU ... unless anyone has any other ideas???? Pleeeeease???? Can I get an ECU from a breakers or does it have to be specific for the car? Cheers, Robin.

Trust me ..... I've already sworn a lot!!!!!! ;)

Is the MAP sensor on a MK1 97 not inside the ECU? (Mine is also an Mk1 97) how did you change it? The egr valve is quite easy to get at you could get 2 blanking plates from ebay and remove it temporarily while you give it a clean and still run the car. Mine is blanked permanently. I may have called it the MAP sensor in error! The Haynes manual calls it an Air Intake Charge Pressure Port/Sensor. Whatever it's called, it didn't make any difference when I changed it! Think my next course of action is going to be to change all the vacuum pipes. I've been reading on here that it's not easy to get at the EGR valve but it looks like I've been reading about the Mk2. Mine's a Mk1 and it does look easy to do.

Update as follows .... So far I've fitted a replacement MAF, Pressure Control Valve and a MAP sensor(all from a breakers), I've also fitted a new coolant temp sensor. I've checked all the vacuum pipes by putting them under vacuum with a heafty suck (eeewww!), the pipes hold a vacuum ok. And there's no change, I'm still losing power!!!!! The only thing I haven't checked is the EGR valve as I understand it's a pig of a job to get off and clean. Can anyone give me any advice please on just how troublesome it is to get the EGR valve off on a Mk 1 Gal? Also, is it possible for the vacuum pipes to collapse under vacuum causing this problem? Although there are no leaks the pipes are old and a bit ragged looking. I get full power until about 3,000rpm and then I feel the power die off. Once I turn the ignition off and back on it's ok again until I hit around 3,000rpm .... then the power goes ... aaaarrrrghh!!!! All advice welcome (by the way, the car has done about 180K). Cheers, Robin.

Hi Guys, This is a follow on from the following post: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=22533 I have a 1997 1.9 tdi 90bhp Gal and she keeps losing power. The car is ok at first, I can drive it for hours with no problems but then it suddenly loses power, struggles on hills and max speed is 70mph (ish). If I stop, turn off the ignition and re-start it's ok again but quickly loses power again. I've changed the MAF (from a breakers yard), checked the vacuum pipes for leaks (not all easy to see though) but I've still got problems. I cleared all the codes, re-ran the scan and now have the following results: Address 01: Engine Labels: 028-906-021 -AHU.LBL Controller: 028 906 021 ES Component: 1,91 R4 EDC GOOSG 1448 Coding: 00002 Shop #: WSC 00020 3 Faults Found: 00522 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62) 29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent 65535 - Internal Controller Error 37-10 - Memory Error 00575 - Intake Manifold Pressure 17-10 - Control Difference - Intermittent Readiness: N/A Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: Redir Fail! Controller: 7M0 907 379 Component: ABS ITTAE 04 GI V00 Coding: 02802 Shop #: WSC 00020 No fault code found. Regarding the coolant temperature sensor fault, I'm assuming I just need a new sensor? I'm a bit worried about the Internal Controller error, does anyone know what this means? So it looks like it's now down to the Intake Manifold Pressure fault, any ideas on what the most likely cause is? I priced up for a new Charger Pressure Control Valve but I don't want to shell out

I can't find any obvious splits in the vacuum hoses ../ although they are not all easy to see or get at! I've taken the Pressure Control Valve off and was shocked when my local factor quoted

Ah I see ... I recognise some of these problems that I've had in the past. The brake peddle switch packed up for example and I changed it. So the fault code could be still showing from then? Cheers, Rob.

Thanks Mirez .... that looks like a lot I've got to sort out!!

That's great thanks. Is the N75 easy to find? Cheers, Rob

Hi, I have a 1997 1.9 tdi 90bhp Gal and she keeps losing power. The car is ok at first but then suddenly loses power, struggles on hills and max speed is 70mph (ish). If I stop, turn off the ignition and re-start it's ok again but quickly loses power again. I've changed the MAF (from a breakers yard) but I've still got problems. I purchased a Vag Com and got the following results: Chassis Type: 7M - VW Sharan Scan: 25,01,02,03,08,09,15,16,1 7,18,19,22,29,36,37,39,45,46,55,56,76 Address 25: Immobilizer Labels: 7M0-953-257.LBL Controller: 7M0 953 257 D Component: A A

I finally finished this job which was quite straight forward when you know how! To find the inspection hole in the top of the bell housing the battery has to come out. Then, I found the only way I could see down the hole to line up the timing mark on the fly wheel was with a small mirror and a torch. Lastly a piece of advice for anyone changing the water pump. Don't go down the route of removing the accessory bracket as suggested in the Haynes manual. Mine just wouldn't come off no matter how hard I levered/hammered it and I feared breaking the thing. It's cast alloy and fuses to the engine block after being in place for several years (my Gal 1.9 tdi Ghia X is 13yrs old and has done 180k miles). It's much easier to take the opportunity to change the timing belt whilst changing the water pump which means the accessory bracket, alternator and air con compressor can all stay in place. Even if the timing belt doesn't need to be changed I would advise removing it and re-fitting it as an easier way to get access to the water pump. Hope this helps. Cheers, Robin.

hi cprob you will need a 19mm deep socket to undo 4 bolts thats holding the accessory bracket, The water pump comes away with the bracket no need to remove timing cover. hope this helps. Hi mslchr and many thanks for your reply. I found this post which is exactly the situation I was in! http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=13605&st=0&p=110826&hl=disintergrate&fromsearch=1entry110826 My timing belt is overdue for a change so I decided to go with plan B and do it this way. I've got the engine mount off, upper belt cover off but can't find the inspection hole in the bell housing to set it to tdc. On the verge of giving up! Cheers, Robin.