cprob

Oh yes I appreciate that and I will look at it this weekend. It's just that I can't detect any leak which I would expect if the pipe was broken and the fault is so reproducable that I wouldn't expect a split pipe to give identical results. Malc I couldn't detect a leak on mine either by sucking on it. But remember, this pipe is under pressure not vacuum and it only takes a tiny hole to cause problems. My pipe had a very small split so when I sucked on the other end of the pipe the split just stuck together and the pipe held the vacuum with my tongue over the end (yuk). Under pressure (blowing into it) the split opens up and causes the limp mode and you won't detect this very small leak by just blowing into it! I look forward to your next update AFTER you've changed the pipe inside the ECU!!! ;-)

I had exctly the same problem. I changed every single vac pipe in the engine bay, stripped and cleaned the EGR valve, changed the MAF but it made no difference. I finally replaced the 3" pipe that's inside the ECU (located behind the clocks in the dash) and it was fixed. If you haven't done this yet, take out the ECU and change this pipe!!!!!! Read all of this first and take note that a SECURITY T20 bit is needed and the job will be easy. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/22717-how-to-ecu-removal/page__p__164798__hl__ecu+removal__fromsearch__1#entry164798

The pull cord was simply a piece of steel wire (a bit thinner than the stuff used for wire coat hangers). It was passed through the stiched hem of the seat fabric in the same way as a string through the hood of a coat or hoodie. There was a twisted loop on each end of the steel pull cord. Once the seat fabric is stretched down over the foam cusion the loops on the pull cord are hooked over the mounts where the bolts go which then holds the fabric tight in place - just like pulling the string tight in a hoodie. I wouldn't say that anything looked like a saw tooth blade. I should have taken some pics and I will if I ever have to take it out again. It really is an easy job and once you get your spanners and screwdrivers out it is all quite self explanatory. I started by thinking I had nothing to lose and if I mess up the seat cover etc I'd just have to bite the bullet and shell out to the breakers for another one but it was a piece of cake and looks like it's never been touched! Of course I only had to remove the cover from the seat part not the back rest. The back rest looked like it may be a bit more involved and probably would need un-picking and re-stitching.

The cold weather has prompted me to look at this again and I've finally fixed my heated seat! I tried searching for a replacement from a breakers but finding one locally was like looking for rocking horse sh**. The only ones I found were miles away and they were going for stupid money!!!! So with nothing to lose I took my seat out and stripped it down ..... it was easy! There was no sewing required (Mk 1) and it all came apart as follows: 1) Remove 4 bolts that secure the seat to the floor pan and the seat lifted straight out of the car, just had to disconnect the heated seat wire. 2) Remove the plastic moulded trim and handles by undoing a few screws. 3) Remove 2 spring clips and 2 bolts from the bracket that joins the beck rest to the seat and seperate the two. The backrest then lays flat but take care not to pull the wire that runs into the backrest for the heating element. I didn't have to strip the back rest any further as my problem was just with the seat element. 4) The fabric covering the seat is held in place with a wire 'pull cord' which easily releases once the bolts from the backrest are removed. Once this 'pull cord' is released the fabric simply pulls back over the foam cusion to reveal the heating element (which looks just like an ordinary thin insulated wire). 5) Once the heating element was exposed I could see a small scorch mark on the foam from where it overheated. This was where the wire had broken and why it failed altogether. I just cut out the broken part and soldered the wire back together. 6) It was then easy to stretch the seat fabric back into position and re-assembly the seat. The whole job took me about 1.5hrs from start to finish and I have a lovely warm bum again! :-)

All bulbs are working and so are the brake lights.

I have the same thing but the lights don't go out when I press the pedal. I've checked the bulbs and they are fine! Any ideas anyone?

It's looking like the best way forward is to buy a whole new seat from a breakers. Question 1. - Is the fault likely to be anything other than a problem with the seat i.e. the controls etc? Question 2. - Will a seat from a Mk 2 be the same as a Mk 1? Question 3. - Has anyone got one? :-) Cheers, Robin.

Thanks MrT Looks like I'd better get my sewing kit out! As far as I'm aware, I haven't got airbags in my seats so at least that shouldn't be a problem! Just need to source a replacement heat pad now!

Frauds want

Hi guys, The drivers heated seat in my MK1 Gal was getting extremely hot (ouch!). After a few days of this it has now packed up altogether although the passanger heated seat is still working fine. I'm guessing there is a fault with the element so does anyone know if these are repairable or where I can get a replacement heated pad from? Any advice would be welcome. Cheers, Robin.

Blimey! That's a lot of miles!! Mine's still got the original clutch at 185k and 3rd gear is grating a bit, other than that I'm hoping it'll go on for a few more years. That reminds me, I need to invest in some Waxoyl :) Cheers, Robin.

Hi Guys, Just a quick point for debate: How many miles would you reasonably expect to get out of a diesel engine? My AHU has done about 185k and it's always been maintained with regular services and oil changes etc. Who out there holds the record for the most miles???? :) Cheers, Robin

I've cured my problem of my engine revs hunting up and down. The alternator packed up so I bought a new one, fitted it and hey presto ..... no more hunting! I haven't a clue why the alternator would have caused this but it's fixed .... so who am I to question why????? Cheers, Robin.

Mirez - Is the MAP sensor not inside the ECU on this car? And not available separately? Regarding the 65535 fault code, I had this and it turned out to be a hole in the small rubber pipe inside the ECU. Cheers, Robin.

Thanks Jon, although I did put a new water temp sensor on it a couple of months ago (not a Ford one though). I'll check the connections just in case. Cheers, Robin.

My MAF came from a breakers yard and it looked like it had been to the moon and back! I might try another one, don't really want to spend

Well done M8 you got there in the end :19: I must say it was quite satisying to finally find a pipe with a hole in!! :D

I've now changed every single vacuum hose including the small one inside the ECU. All my fault codes have gone but I can still hear the engine revs hunting up and down slightly. The rev counter doesn't move but I can hear the revs changing slightly. Vag Com tells me the revs are going up and down by about 20rpm. It's not much I know but does anyone have any idea what could be causing it please? Cheers, Robin.

I changed the small pipe inside the ECU today and I found the old pipe had a 1mm split in it. A new pipe is now fitted and I have no fault codes at all. Fingers crossed it will stay that way! Many thanks everyone for all the help and advice. Cheers, Robin.

My barometric pressure is steady around 1050 mbar and it didn't change when I took it for a drive. I measured it after changing my MAP hose and the small hose inside the ECU. I don't know what the pressure reading was before changing the hoses, I should have checked it first for a comparison really. Cheers, Robin.

I removed my ECU today to change the small pipe inside ... and yes the old one had a hole in it!! Just to add to Andy's brilliant and most helpful post I found that when I pulled the slide connector out it was hitting the tube where the MAP hose connects. This stopped the slide connector coming all the way out so I couldn't disconnect the multi plug from the ECU. This was easily overcome by slightly pulling on the multiplug so it came out a little way. This then allowed the necessary clearance for me to pull the slide connector all the way out and to fully remove the multi plug. Hope this helps and may save a few minutes of confusion!. Cheers, Robin.

Thanks Phil for the advice. I replaced all the vacuum pipes with silicon a few weeks ago ... except the pipe to, and inside the ecu! Looks like I need to change these too asap! Cheers, Robin.

Hi Guys, The idle speed on my 1.9tdi AHU 90 is alternating between 882 and 924 rpm (according to Vag Com). I can also hear the engine 'hunting' up and down. I have the following fault codes which I've had for a while and are linked to the car going into limp mode which I think is a seperate problem. 65535 - Internal Controller Error 37-10 - Memory Error 00575 - Intake Manifold Pressure 17-10 - Control Difference - Intermittent Any ideas what could be making the idle speed go up and down? Cheers, Robin.

Just drove 550 miles fully loaded with a roof box. The first 250 miles was perfect but then it went into limp mode again!! After that it was limp mode for most of the last 300 miles. How can the problem be fixed by changing all the vacuum pipes but then only last for 250 miles????? What can possibly change in that time to give me the problem back???? It's soooo frustrating! I haven't changed the MAP hose or the small hose in the ECU yet .... but it was fine for 250 miles so could it really be this? Has anybody got any ideas please? Cheers, Robin.