Dodger

There's 3 different varieties of error 00575. Check which one you have and look at this.

Couldn't look at it because wife had the car. Ford techniciain said it would be a 4 pin switch, and it was. Easier to fit than I thought it was going to be. Removed the trim so that I could see properly. Once you realise that the two tabs are not the same so that there is only one way round it can go in or come out then it was easy. No need to file the tab down in my case. New switch is green and a revised larger design than the black one which came out.

I've got brake light switch failure again. Other than removing the old switch, how can I tell if I need to buy a 2 pin or a 4 pin switch?

Perhaps some of these are old faults? Clear all codes, take it for a drive and see what codes come back.

The only thing that has put me off doing my own oil change is that you have to remove the cover underneath the sump to get access to the sump plug. I don't have access to a ramp or a pit. How difficult is it to get this cover off with the car on the ground? Galaxy MK1 TDI 110 Tried the FAQ section and couldn't find anything on this.

I presume you bought this lead of ebay and you're more than happy with it? Any chance you could tell me the sellers ID? ;) I've been having the same problem as you and a fast blast last weekend down to Inverness didn't cure it so I'm looking for a vag-com lead and software to give me a clue. I bought this one VAG COM and it worked fine.

So one day it was fine, then suddenly the next day it's not going right. Don't really know what to suggest. It sounds a bit like a failure of the elctronics, it's odd that you don't get any fault code. Perhaps you could try driving it with the MAF disconnected to see if that makes any difference. Are you using VAG COM and laptop PC to read the fault codes? Can you see that it is communicating with all the car's electronic modules?

Big Matt, How long has the car been like this? Did it suddenly go wrong or has it deteriorated over a period of time. Have you owned the car from brand new, do you know the history of the car? How many miles has it done? Regarding the VNT mechanism in the turbo, the vanes move to increase the boost at low revs and move back to decrease the boost at high revs. The idea is that you get plenty of pull from the engine across the whole rev range. Older diesel engines with fixed turbos suffered from "all or nothing" where the was no pull at low revs and then they would suddenly take off as you accelerate above 2000 rpm. If the VNT mechanism sticks it usually results in too much boost and the engine trips into limp mode and you get a fault code.

Another duff MAF ??? Did you get it from ebay? Lack of any fault code points towards MAF.

I recently fixed my turbo by replacing the N75 valve. Symptom was no boost until about 3000rpm and tripping into limp mode when trying to pull up any hill. There are 3 pipes to the N75. What I did was: 1. Connect an extension pipe to the pipe that goes from the N75 to the turbo and try to blow down it. It should be air tight. If you can blow down there is a leak. 2. Idle the engine and put your thumb over the pipe that supplies vacuum to the N75. Leave your thumb on it for 10 seconds or so and you should be able to feel the suction. When you take your thumb off you should hear a definite intake of air. 3. Inspect the pipe that lets atomospheric pressure air into the N75. If it's damaged there's a chance that pieces of rubber tube have been sucked into the N75 blocking it. 4. Disconnect the lead to the N75, idle the engine and measure the voltage. My meter read 9 volts. If all the above checks out then it's either a bad N75 or the VNT vanes on the turbo have got stuck. New N75 from Ford dealer cost

This may help:- http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/17965/P1557/005463 17965/P1557/005463 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation Possible Symptoms Reduced power output Limp mode Possible Causes Boost Pressure too High Hoses/Pipes incorrect connected, disconnected, blocked or leaking Charger Pressure Control defective VNT (variable nozzle turbo): nozzles stuck Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) defective Possible Solutions Check Hoses/Pipes to/between Components Check Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) Check / Clean / Replace Charge Pressure Control Check / Clean mechanism for variable nozzles Retrieved from "http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/17965/P1557/005463"

Three possible varieties of code 00575 http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/00575 Which one have you got?

I can't claim to be an expert but if it were me I think I'd go to a tyre fitters and get the front wheels re-balanced before doing anything else.

VAG-COM only helps with the VW manufactured engines such as TDI. Not sure it will help with your Ford engine.

I agree with ini. More likely to be the throttle potentiometer. In limp mode due to turbo problems the engine still responds to the throttle and you can still manage 50-60mph on the level. A diagnostic lead and VAG-COM would give you an accurate diagnosis. Should cost less that

Market, I had exactly the same problem. In my case it was the boost pressure control solenoid (sometimes called N75 valve) that had failed. You should locate this valve and check the vacuum hoses that are connected to it. They chaff and become punctured. In order to diagnose your problem you really should get hold of a VAG-COM diagnostic lead to read the fault codes. This will tell you why the engine is going into limp mode. There are possible reasons other than the N75 valve, VAG-COM will be a great help. Don't panic it may be an inexpensive repair and quite likely not a new turbo that is required.

Take the scuttle tray out and the vacuum pipes are much easier to get to. The plastic tray goes under the wiper mechanism and stops water coming through on to the back of the engine. Three bolts, one each side and one in the middle, a lot of jiggling about, and it will come out. You could looseing the coolant expansion bottle and remove the air filter housing to make it easier but it's not essential.

Just found this data sheet N75 data sheet

I've just replaced the N75 / boost control valve on my 1999 TDI 110, AFN engine code. The part numbers are VW: 1HO 906 627 A Ford: 95 VW12B573 CA It's the very same part from either. It was cheaper at the Ford dealer at

Fixed my problem. Just as the Ross-Tech Wiki said it would be, it was a faulty N75 valve. Ross Tech Wiki Replacement valve from Ford dealer

Answered my own question. Fixed the fault on my TDI 110. It was the N75/boost control solenoid valve. It was not necessary to clear the code through vag-com to restore normal running. Just had to fix the fault.

Is it actually necessary to clear fault codes to restore normal running of the engine? I have a "00575 Intake Manifold Pressure 17-10 Control Difference - Intermittent" which I read but didn't clear. If I reconnect VAG-COM and clear the fault code could it make a difference?

My VAG-COM arrived this morning so now I also have the fault code: 00575 Intake Manifold Pressure 17-10 Control Difference - Intermittent Also I've tried blowing down the vacuum pipe from the air box again. With the engine stopped I can't blow anywhere, it's air tight. With the engine running I can blow through, not easily but it definitely coming out somewhere. Does this indicate another leak in the vacuum system? I disconnected the cable to the EGR solenoid and that made no difference so the leak, if there is one, is on the Turbo Boost control side. Some more advice from the gurus here would be gratefully received.

Had a look at this at the weekend. Thanks to the members of this forum I understand how this is supposed to work. Took the air filter housing out and the scuttle tray out to inspect the vacuum hoses. Straight away found a sizable hole in one of the pipes on the air box side of the two solenoids. So I thought I was in luck, I replaced the damaged pipe, put in a new air filter and put it all back together. Took it for a drive to try it out - absolutely no difference. It still trips into limp mode at 2000 - 2500 rpm in 4th gear and it's lacking power at low revs. So my current thinking is that there has been a hole in the vacuum hose for a few months and the vanes in the turbo have stuck due to lack of use. I took the vacuum pipe off the air box and blew down it (engine not running) to confirm no other leaks. I guess I could try this again with the engine running so that the solenoid to the turbo will be open. I'm wondering whether there is any possibility of un-sticking the turbo vanes from the outside without removing the turbo from the engine. I don't have access to a ramp so can't easily get access to the turbo. Any ideas or advice would be appreciated. It's a 1999 Galaxy 110 TDi, 73k miles. Can't contemplate taking it to the Ford dealer as I'm sure they'd just put a new turbo on it and charge the best part of what the car is worth.

Check the above link .... :lol: Many thanks. Just spent an hour reading it. Plenty for me to going on with there. I don't have VAG-COM so looks like I need to get it first. If I buy a lead from ebay will it come with the VAG-COM software which includes the VTN freeing up feature?