Keithb

I've had turbo power loss on and off from 40,000 miles. Tried plenty to cure it and earlier this year at 180,000 miles used innotec cleaner which improved it a bit. I then used the guide on the forum to remove the turbo and almost dismantled it but I sheared the torx bolts within the turbo, universal turbos at Fordingbridge refurbished it for about £400. It is now perfect and I can confidently overtake again. My reccomendation would be to replace or return.

I had a similar problem with my 2003 tdi auto. Lost power on several occasions but came back after thumping everything electrical ;) I had an auto electrician look at it and he found nothing wrong - off course the fault never showed when you wanted it. He put in another earth lead from the battery and the problem has never re-occurred. I blame it on damp getting in after a replacement windscreen wasn't sealed properly and left the fuse box and drivers side footwell soaking wet.

I replaced my rear offside brake caliper last weekend as the piston would not wind back. Mine was also 180 degrees out but I managed to tighten the flexi hose onto the caliper a bit more with brute strength! After all the fitting (new disc and pads with caliper) I had some friction which heated the disc far more than the others. I took it for some short runs and applied the handbrake to wear the pads in and it seems ok now.

Not such a good fit on my 2003 Galaxy. The back bar is ok but the front needs to be another inch longer. Also the only thing that stops the bars coming out from the rail fixing is the plastic stop end - which came off easily. Anyone want a pair of slightly used roof bars in the East Dorset area? Keith

My tyres are 215/55/R16 - same as summer tyres and extra load or whatever they are called.The make is "Starperformer" I don't see any reason to inform the insurance company as these are what Ford recommend. Sounds like another Daily Express scare story such as "clearing the snow in front of your house will make you liable if someone slips up".

I put winter tyres on the front for the first time last year and they do make a difference. Not only in snow and slush but in the wet also. I used mytyres.co.uk and got a fitting voucher. I've now got a spare set of wheels so no need to change over the tyres from winter to summer. I doubt that snow tyres will help if you stop on one of those hills in the cotswolds and it's covered in snow - you may want to get some chains as well. Keith

Having had my manifold cleaned although not sure if the EGR valve was cleaned as well, here is my update after a 3 week holiday to Italy. MPG measured before cleaning 37 - over several thousand miles of mixed driving. MPG measured over 2,200 trip 36 - laden to the gunwales with camping equipment + roofbox and driving over mountain passes. MPG on motorway (laden as above) at 70 - 75 mph - 37 MPG Since returning I've done a 400 mile round trip to Ipswich M3, M25, A12, no luggage and just the driver - 44 MPG. I'm pleased with the result and feel that I'm getting a better fuel consumption now. 2003 TDI 115 BHP AUTO. Mileage 130,000 Cheers Keith

For those without the skills of Mirez, I've just had mine cleaned by a local friendly mechanic for

OK, Relays exposed again and relay 14(engine immobilisation) is prime suspect When I remove that I get the same symptoms as when the car doesn't start - dashboard lights on but no engine turning. Starting ok at the moment so maybe it just needed re-seating. I'll run around with the relays exposed for a while so I can thump them if it re-occurs. Thanks for the help so far. Keith

Thanks Seatkid, but how would a problem with the alternator cause the problem with no turning of the engine after stopping the car? I have checked all the 'heavy duty' fuses next to the battery - no sign of burning out or melting. Keith

Thanks Mirez, You're right I should have said relay 30. But that doesn't exist in a diesel engined car, Any suggestions as to the likely relay? Keith

Sometimes I get a flickering of lights - Dashboard and headlights. If I stop, turn off and on again it may clear the flickering but sometimes the engine will not turn over although the dashboard lights are on. If I take the key out and re-insert it, maybe needs a few attempts the engine turns over and starts normally. Having read (obviously not enough)that the Relay 20 caused this problem, I dismantled the relay assembly and found that diesel engined cars don't have that relay! But that did clear the problem for a couple of weeks. However, now it's back even more than ever. In another thread Mirez suggest an alternator problem - but as the fault also affects the engine turning over, I wouldn't think the alternator would be the cause. After I jiggled the relays it worked for a couple of weeks so is there a bad connection there - which one to look at. Or is it something else - ignition switch? Any suggestions appreciated. 2003 TDI 115BHP Auto Keith

I have occasional flickering of headlights and also dash lights. Again made worse when heated windows are on. I'm thinking it's to do with the 'relay 20' problem as the engine has failed to turn over sometimes unless I pull the key out of the ignition and re-insert. This also cures the flickering lights so maybe not the same cause. I also get occasional double flash of the hazards when switching off and on. Keith

Nothing scientific but I use Millers Ecomax. Drove to Croatia this year and had fantastic power and MPG after filling up in Luxembourg with Shell (40MPG+ even on German motorways). I ran out of Millers on the way home and after filling up at Auchan in Dunkerque my turbo cut out 4 times between Dover and Dorset. So my vote is for Millers Ecomax and avoid at (least French) supermarket fuel.

I wouldn't go anywhere near a dealer to sort that out. Check on all the posts here first -power loss or limp mode should find them. A dealer will diagnose a faulty turbo, charge

Srafferty, since the early days of my fault I've been repeatedly told on these forums to check the vacuum hoses. I've asked several garages to do this and one even claims to have taken them all off and blown compressed air through them. Like you, I've changed the likely parts. The only item not to be changed is the N75 valve. It's a pig to get too and I put it off till last. The other week I decided to have a look at the beasty. Removed windscreen wipers, grill, upper bulkhead thingy and removed the aluminium heatshield. The valve is held on by 2 bolts. 3 vacuum hoses connect to it and I replaced all three. The valve didn't look serviceable so I thought I'd leave it for the moment. 1 hose goes to the small paper filter near the air filter, another goes to the turbo diaphragm and the other to the top of the engine (I guess that's the vacuum feed). Anyway the one to the top of the engine was a little loose on it's connector so maybe that was a weak spot. I also used vag-com to change the egr value to the limit. Less muck to go into the inlet system. Since then it seems to be pulling better and hasn't gone into limp mode. This is no guarantee as it usually fails when fully loaded or pulling a caravan. I'm off to the French Alps this weekend for a week so I'll see how it behaves on some big hills (and having an 8 hour blast on the autoroute). I've attached a piccy and you'll see my replacement blue hoses with the offending one arrowed. Best of luck! Keith

Welcome to the club! (The tdi loss of power club that is) There's loads on here about Limp home mode or TDi loss of power. Your problem is likely to be in the vacuum hoses. I've had the cat changed - which improved the problem, MAF - no change, Turbo control solenoid - no change, vacuum pipes blown through and checked for leaks. oh and the little paper filter near the air filter - that can get clogged and cause your problem. There doesn't seem to be 1 cure but anything a little off spec can start the problem. I've had the problem on and off for 60k miles now - it started at 40k miles. For me it happens under load - towing, full car and generally uphill. My next approach is to change the n75 valve. Keith 2003 Galaxy tdi115 auto

I shouldn't have mentioned that mine had been fine since before Christmas. Had a trip yesterday and immediately felt that something was wrong. It was changing gear at the wrong revs and generally felt lacklustre. Accelerated up a hill and went into Limp Home mode. Had to restart 3 times on a 120 mile trip. Strangely though, coming back this morning and thrashed the nuts off it with no problem. I'm thinking there must be some gunge blocking one of the vacuum pipes somewhere or maybe in the N75 valve. Keith

I wouldn't bother checking with VAG-COM - that will just show intermittant overboost. There's loads on here about Limp home mode or TDi loss of power. Your problem is likely to be in the vacuum hoses. I've had the cat changed - which improved the problem, MAF - no change, Turbo control solenoid - no change, vacuum pipes blown through and checked for leaks - only done just before Christmas but looking promising! oh and the little paper filter near the air filter - that can get clogged and cause your problem. There doesn't seem to be 1 cure but anything a little off spec can start the problem. Happy hunting! Keith

I've had an intermittent problem with my 2003 TDi 115 Auto going into Limp mode. Initially it was under heavy load, such as 5 up with a caravan. The problem became worse until it was happening with just me in the car and no load. Tried Ecotek power boost, replaced the MAF (well it's done 70K so must be due for replacement) still no cure. On the advice of others I booked it into Universal Turbos at Ringwood and they seem to have cured it! - New Cat and back pipe. Now I haven't given it a test under load but am wondering if I knackered the Cat by switching the ignition off and on whilst driving to reset the ECU and get out of limp mode. I guess this could have delivered unburnt diesel to the Cat. Maybe the underlying cause is still there. Anyway for those with this problem, there's another possible cause to check. As well as vacuum pipes, Turbo VNT, MAF, brake pedal switch, TMAP etc. I'll know if it's properly cured when I take it to the Alps this summer!! Keith

will give it a try weekend don't like keys in engine running bye bye car saga That sounds a great idea if it works. However, doesn't the engine need to be running to pump the coolant aroundor is it not connected to the main radiator? KeithB

I'm another with the same problem. Just been to the south of France pulling a caravan and had the fault several times. As others have said, stopping and turning off the ignition cures it immediately. I initially suspected the maf but as the fault clears I ruled out the maf. I seem to recall something about a faulty sensor reading to the ecu puts it into limp home mode? - is this the problem or have I confused something. Mines still under warranty and I was planning a visit to the Fraud dealer to get it looked at, when time allows!

I had the same problem with mine. See this - thread Transmission "run-out"/wobble, or worse? - Mine is pretty much cured by replacing both driveshafts/CV Joints. Initially the garage only changed one but then replaced the other (both under warranty). Sometimes I can still feel the wobble if heavily laden and going up hill, so I'm monitoring at the moment before asking the garage to do more checks. Keith

All fixed now under warranty! The report back from the garage was NSR CV Joint replaced. - I hope they meant NSF ! Thanks for the suggestions. Keith

Dave-G - I've PM'd you seperately on this but I'm looking for advice on the same problem with my 03 Tdi Ghia auto. The symptons are the whole car shakes/wobbles particularly at 40-60 mph and more so when loaded or going uphill. If I ease off the accelerator the wobble goes. There's very little vibration coming through the steering wheel so it looks like tracking/wheel balance is ok. All tyres were new 3k miles ago. Rear shocks replaced at last service (40k). The service dealer has checked it and verified the problem but doesn't know what the cause is - it's in again on Thursday for a thorough checking so any pointers would be useful. Keith